Romanian Garden

Eastern European foods get stereotyped as meat-heavy and bland. But Romanian food -- wholesome and nourishing -- has its rewards, especially in bone-chilling weather. Witness the Romanian immigrants who pack this place, coming from the tri-state region to down plates of stuffed cabbage rolls or ladles of stewed pork with cornmeal polenta.

As reflected in its name, the restaurant strives for a garden effect. Trellises deck the walls and are hung with fake evergreen boughs touched with "snow." A fireplace creates a cozy feeling and the TVs (one in each room) broadcast in Romanian. A full bar serves liquor and beer and a range of bottled wines.

If you're feeling chilly, warm yourself with a bowl of meatball soup. Little meatballs float in a light, flavorful broth flecked with finely chopped onions, carrots, celery, red bell peppers and parsley. On the side, you're served a fresh jalapeño pepper and sour cream, to add as you like.

A basket of chewy white bread had a pleasant, sourdough flavor, and I had to restrain myself from having too many slices.

A house salad of crisp iceberg lettuce, thin slices of tomatoes, cucumbers and white onions was large enough for two. Tossed in a tangy vinaigrette, it was topped with mild, finely grated feta cheese. Among the appetizers, I liked the eggplant spread, a smooth, garlicky dip; the roasted red peppers, however, tasted as if they had come straight out of a jar.

Of the entrees, I particularly enjoyed the mititei – plump, savory ground beef sausages grilled over intense heat to retain their juices. They tasted delicious, especially with the accompanying pile of thin, golden French fries. Sarmale, or stuffed cabbage rolls stewed in a tangy tomato sauce, also were good.

Though its name conjures an image of a bowl of stewed meat and vegetables, the Romanian stew is not quite that. The substantial dish with chunks of smoked pork cooked in a tomato sauce, is plated alongside two servings of cornmeal polenta, one topped with feta cheese, the other with a coddled egg. For a lighter entree, go with chicken in vegetable sauce -- a quarter chicken grilled and topped with a mildly spiced paprika-garlic sauce.

Most entrees come with a choice of baked or French fried potatoes or vegetables. For vegetables, we received a colorful mix of broccoli, cauliflower and carrots. On one visit, they tasted freezer- burned, but on another night they were satisfactory.

For dessert, we had apple strudel. The pastry was disappointingly limp, not crisp, but I enjoyed the filling, which tasted fruity and not overly sweetened. Papanasi, freshly fried dough topped with apricot preserves, was a better choice. Coffee and after-dinner drinks also are options.

Reviewed by Rose Kim, 1/24/03.