Polpette in brachetta are one of the specialty meatball appetizers...

Polpette in brachetta are one of the specialty meatball appetizers at Brick Osteria, Port Washington's revamped Rosso Uptown. Credit: Brick Osteria

Three years into its tenure on Port Washington’s Main Street, Rosso Uptown has switched gears. Brick Osteria is the restaurant’s new name, and the menu blends Rosso’s pizza-trattoria offerings with more authentic Southern Italian items.

General manager Michael Tizzano has brought back dishes that he made at his earlier Port Washington restaurants, Brio, Romantico and Sisina, such as paccheri with fava beans and guanciale ($16), bucatini cacio e pepe ($16), scallops with Gorgonzola risotto ($26) and braised lamb shank ($24). A roster of meatball appetizers ($11) includes polpette Sorrento (with fried eggplant, tomato sauce and mozzarella) and, a special, polpette in brachetta: meatballs wrapped with eggplant and prosciutto, topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella and American cheese.

“Brachetta,” Tizzano said, refers to the fly of gentleman’s trousers. He has no idea why this traditional Neapolitan dish is so named.

He is also introducing 12-by-17-inch pizzas “al quadrato,” rectangular, Roman-style pies that are cut into squares ($27). The “Brick” pie features prosciutto, smoked mozzarella, fig reduction and fresh arugula.

Italian-American classics such as Caesar salad, penne alla vodka, veal and chicken Parm, Francese and/or Marsala remain on the menu. And the takeout pizza shop still occupies the Western third of the storefront’s space.

Tizzano and owner Massimo Gammella also run Pepe Rosso 24 on Manorhaven Boulevard.

Brick Osteria, 52 Main St., Port Washington, 516-944-0100, brickpw.com

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