Ruta Oaxaca and other LI restaurants to try this weekend

Come July, there is nary a stretch of waterfront without fishing lines dunked in the drink. Let's admit we all have seafood on our minds, and often on our grills. So do these three restaurants where the fish quotient is high but the approaches are personal.

Ruta Oaxaca (30 E. Main St., Patchogue) It's nearly impossible to misfire at this three-month-old Mexican spot, where the dishes of chefs Carlos and Felipe Arellanos, from tacos to guava-glazed ribs, contain oceans of flavor. On a hot summer day, take a seat under an umbrella on the back patio and tuck into a refreshing shrimp-and-calamari ceviche (the fish changes, depending on what's fresh), chased by sips of hibiscus margarita. And the enchiladas huatulco? They are velvety and divine, filled with lobster, shrimp and crab meat and smothered in melted queso Chihuahua and habanero cream salsa. More info: 631-569-2233, rutaoaxacamex.com/patchogue

Five Ocean (5 New York Ave., Long Beach) Tucked behind the dunes at the western end of the Long Beach boardwalk, the patio here has soft, breezeswept vibes that instill instant relaxation. Once the tension has left your shoulders, the food fills you gently, from ahi-tuna tacos (at lunch) or carpaccio (at dinner) to octopus a la plancha with tamarind and spiced yogurt or daily changing ceviche. Crabcakes, mussels, clam and corn chowder, lobster rolls, roasted swordfish...the seaborne choices are many, and drinks run to the likes of vodka-spiked chamomile iced tea and a coconut-yuzu margarita. More info: 516-517-2828, fiveoceanlongbeach.com

Anker (47 Front St., Greenport) If there was ever such as thing as a seafood bistro, Anker — comfortable, elegant and wholly devoted to fish and shellfish — would provide the template. The place is intended to mimic a sailboat, with a comfy barroom downstairs and a sail-covered patio on the roof. A rapid-fire list of dishes gives you a sense of what's in store: At lunch, roasted mussels, an albacore tuna cheeseburger, or a roasted monkfish cubano with lamb pancetta and melted gruyere. Come supper, porgy merguez sausage, swordfish bone marrow with sourdough, or grilled round fish with charred green garlic and pickled ramps. All day long, raw or chargrilled oysters, crudo, blue-lump crab toast, or fish and chips made with black sea bass and served with guajillo tartar sauce. Yum. More info: 631-477-1300, ankerny.com