Sen Spice

Not quite gritty, but getting there, the joint needs only smoke and ceiling fans to complete the effect, illuminated by filament-flicker bulbs. The new spot, spawned by Sen, the popular Japanese restaurant next door, knows mood. And it's also a mandatory den for the East End's wandering vegetarians and vegans. Arrive early or expect a worth-it wait.

THE BEST

Crisp, deep-fried vegetable fritters, or pakoras; and samosas, the pyramid-shaped pastries filled with potatoes and peas, stand out. So does a mulligatawny soup that really does translate into pepper water. Cool off with a yogurt drink before moving on to an electric, toasted-chili driven vindaloo, either chicken or lamb; subtler tandoori prawns or whole chicken; and lamb kebabs marinated with yogurt, ginger, papaya and a fistful of spices.

Mellow kormas, jalfrezis and tikka masalas balance the menu. Most curries can be cooked with either shrimp, salmon, beef, chicken, lamb or goat. Vegans veer to fine alu Gobi, the potato-cauliflower combo; potatoes accented with cumin and turmeric; yellow lentils with sauteed onions and tomatoes; and chana masala, chick peas with a Punjabi tang.

The Indian breads: mandatory, from plain to sweet, from garlic naan to onion kulcha. And that blackberry margarita does have some personality, especially while you're nibbling on papadum, the crunchy lentil wafers. Try Kingfisher or Taj Mahal beer with appetizers.

THE REST

Warm, mango-coconut milk soup is pale company. The potato cake looks better than it tastes. Biryanis: standard. Mesclun salad advertises blood oranges, but the supremes suggest a bland clementine. The chai crème brûlée turns soupy under the surface and the kheer "martini" just loosens up rice pudding.

THE BOTTOM LINE

A lively passage.