Sushi bar Shoshaku opens in Great Neck

In a town overflowing with sushi bars (12 and counting) Shoshaku is poised to make waves in Great Neck. The small storefront, which took over the old Mizu, specializes in fish flown in from Japan. On a recent evening, the winged fish included sturgeon, gray mullet, baby yellowtail, mahi mahi and chu-toro (the fatty — but not the fattiest — part of the bluefin tuna’s belly). Most selections were priced at $5 per piece.

Shoshaku serves its share of nutty rolls, such as the Triple Crown (containing white tuna, pepper tuna and avocado and topped with spicy tuna) but the emphasis seems to be on the higher end of the sushi spectrum. The Japanese imports plus other hopping-fresh cuts (including monkfish liver and real king crab) are also available as part of the omakase, defined on the menu as a $68  “no brainer chef’s premium selection sushi.” Regular sushi and sashimi platters are $19 to $25.

Among the donburi (over-rice) bowls, are some more rarities: kaisen don ($28, like chirashi, but with regular, not vinegared, rice), oyako don ($13, chicken braised with egg and onion) and something called a garlic-oyster bowl ($15). Not so rare: a tuna-salmon poke bowl ($14).

There are teishoku (set-menu) dinners, a few noodles and plenty of hot and cold starters.

68 Middle Neck Rd., Great Neck, 518-930-7353.