Small bites at Osaka Japanese Restaurant in Huntington

Closed by a fire last spring, Osaka Japanese Restaurant in Huntington was recently born again, having relocated from its former Main Street digs to a new Wall Street address.

A dinner in the simply but tastefully appointed space started off well with an Alaska roll featuring salmon, avocado and scallion with a spicy mayonnaise-based sauce. Fresh and vibrant. Indeed, I would have ordered more maki rolls had I known how skimpy my main course of chirashi – sashimi over seasoned rice – would be.

The dish, at $18 (no soup included), starred cucumber and pickles rather than fish. I counted  two pieces of octopus, one piece of salmon, one piece of whitefish, one piece of tuna, some kani (artificial crab) and a piece of cooked shrimp. I politely asked the waitress if this was all the fish there was supposed to be. “This is the way it is,” she said.

I would have cadged some of my companion’s spicy chicken teriyaki ($19), but the pieces of poultry, bathed in a chili-fired red sauce, were overcooked, dry and harshly garlicky.

Osaka Japanese Restaurant is at 11 Wall St., Huntington, 631-673-7271