Smokey Bones

A standout is the Brunswick stew, a thick tomato-based potage made with chicken, ground beef and smoked brisket and vegetables. Both the ribs and the brisket - sliced thin as pastrami - taste long-smoked. Pulled pork is impressive in its simplicity - i.e., it isn't swimming in gobs of sweet barbecue sauce, as it all too often is.

The real surprise here is dessert - a bag of warm doughnuts, freshly fried and tossed with cinnamon sugar. Although you may not be able to finish all six, take the remainder home and microwave them in their bag, with the top snipped off, for 40 seconds. Late night snacks don't get much better than this.