The tuna tartare is served at the Stone Creek Inn...

The tuna tartare is served at the Stone Creek Inn on 405 Montauk Highway in East Quogue, September 5, 2009. Credit: /Photo by John Griffin

Sunny and handsome, Stone Creek Inn is an essay in white and a masterful conversion of an early 1900s residence.

The place is defined, however, by the refined cooking of Christian Mir and the well-run dining room of Elaine DiGiacomo.

The food is a beguiling blend of French and Mediterranean, with new American accents.

Some of the fine appetizers are tuna tartare, surrounded by a smoked-salmon skyline; lobster salad with fennel, basil and orange; and a super, cool crabcake.

Main courses may include an herbaceous rack of lamb; seared duck breast with a fennel-honey lavender sauce; and oven-roasted monkfish in sage broth.

The berry napoleon and the creme brulee ars stellar ways to end the meal.

Tuna: Chef Christian Mir's elegant, subtle yellowfin tuna tartare is tossed with ginger, chives and soy sauce, and capped with a flourish: "wasabi caviar," or flying-fish roe, coated with what's often called Japanese horseradish. It's one of our 10 favorite tuna dishes on Long Island.

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