Taj Indian Fusion in Wantagh offers lively food and gracious service at a modest site.

Credit: Daniel Brennan

"Gobi Manchurian" is a savory, deep-fried, then stir-fried cauliflower dish, leading vegetarian appetizers at Taj Indian Fusion in Wantagh.

Credit: Daniel Brennan

Taj Indian Fusion gives you white-glove service and red-carpet treatment in Wantagh Commons.

Credit: Daniel Brennan

A five-seat bar adjacent to the dining room serves colorful cocktails and apropos beers and wines at Taj Indian Fusion in Wantagh.

Credit: Daniel Brennan

Taj Indian Fusion in Wantagh offers a bright dining room and even brighter, full-flavored cuisine.

Credit: Daniel Brennan

The dining room of Taj Indian Fusion in Wantagh is almost as bright as the food served there.

Credit: Daniel Brennan

Mahi mahi "mustard fish" is a Bengali-style curry and a specialty of Kolkata at Taj Indian Fusion in Wantagh.

Credit: Daniel Brennan

"Drums of heaven" are Hong Kong-inspired sweet-spicy chicken wings, a leading appetizer at Taj Indian Fusion in Wantagh.

Credit: Daniel Brennan

Whole red snapper "tandoori Genghis Queen" is marinated with Indian spices and yogurt, then grilled at Taj Indian Fusion in Wantagh.

Credit: Daniel Brennan

The owners -- Sarita Murthy and her sons, Victor and Tony -- oversee the dining room at Taj Indian Fusion in Wantagh.

Credit: Daniel Brennan

Chef Nirmal Gomes' cuisine veers east and west, north and south, with equal ease at Taj Indian Fusion in Wantagh.

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