Taj Tandoor

In understated chic surroundings, British-raised co-owner Cyrus Kabir serves a brand of Indian cooking he terms "London style." The emphasis is on flavor, texture and nuance - even when the heat is turned up, subtleties come through.

Here are some suggested entrees, in different heat zones:

HIGH-VOLTAGE: Manchester vindaloo ordered with chicken, has lots of dry, freshly ground pepper sauteed into the meat before it's finished with a curry sauce.

MEDIUM: "Chef's special Madras curry" with shrimp is made with 36 spices, giving the dish much depth and intensity.

MILD: Saag panir, compellingly spiced, features spinach that's marinated in a sweet curry before being cooked with a creamy house-made cheese. The result is amazingly light and addictive.

-Joan Reminick