Your guide to takeout on Long Island

Ben’s Deli (59 Old Country Rd., Carle Place): If you need chicken soup for the soul, Ben’s can fulfill all your kosher deli needs, for delivery or pickup. Go to bensdeli.net/online-ordering-system click on your local Ben’s and you’ll find everything you need to order online or by phone. (Other locations at 140 Wheatley Plaza, Greenvale and 7971 Jericho Turnpike, Woodbury). More info: 516-742-3354, bensdeli.net

Big Daddy's (1 Park Lane, Massapequa): Massapequa’s expansive roadhouse has been rollicking since 1993, endearing itself to diners with such twists on tradition as shrimp and habanero-goat-cheese grits and smoked, pulled pork and bacon on a waffle. A reduced menu, posted on Facebook, is now available. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 516-799-8877, bigdaddysny.com

Boxcar Burgers (90 Railroad Ave., Ronkonkoma): Two longtime best friends opened this train-station burger joint in January, and the griddled burgers — decked out in pickles, minced onions and a slather of ketchup — are evocative of childhood. Hot dogs, potato tots, hand cut fries and mac-and-cheese bites round out the menu. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 631-615-2717, boxcarburgersli.com

Cafe Revue (313 New York Ave., Huntington): Even though Book Revue is closed for browsing — customers can still order books online — the little cafe in its northeast corner is still serving its full menu of sandwiches, soups, salads, pastries and beverages made with Southdown coffee. Open for pickup and delivery Monday to Saturday from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. More info: 631-423-4455, raquetteriverbaking.com

Carolina Kitchen (2717A Route 112, Medford): Fried chicken is the main event here, served with sides such as collards, baked beans or a creamy stuffing slathered in white gravy. Also baked chicken, burgers, pulled pork and half and full racks of ribs are also on the menu. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 631-569-5993, carolinakitchen.business.site

Carolyn’s Kitchen (2564 Hemptstead Tpke., East Meadow): This new soul-food restaurant was just getting on its feet when the pandemic struck. Now, after a brief pause, owner Joan Thomas has reworked her website to facilitate online ordering and payment. Open for pickup and delivery Monday to Saturday from noon to 7 p.m. More info: 516-396-0660, carolyns.kitchen

The Chicken Coop (212 E. Main St., Huntington): This rotisserie-chicken spot opened in early March, and its stock in trade are roasted half- or whole chickens with an array of sides, from jalapeño-cheddar mac-and-cheese to collard greens. Open for pickup Tuesday to Saturday from 3:30 to 7:30. More info: 631-425-2667, chickencoopgrilltisserie.com

Choppers Burger Bar (671 Glen Cove Ave., Glen Head): High-end chef Kent Monkan (The Brass Rail in Locust Valley, Heirloom Tavern in Glen Head, Wild Goose in Port Washington) takes it down a notch at this fast-casual spot featuring burgers, chicken, fries and shakes. Open for pickup and delivery every day from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. More info: 516-403-2299, choppersburgerbar.com

El Sueño Mexican Grill (1711 New York Ave., Huntington): This unassuming new Mexican spot, owned by Joel Salas of Oakdale’s more elaborate Viva La Vida, makes its tortillas which ensures terrific tacos, tostadas, taquitos and more. Breakfast too. Open for pickup and delivery every day from 10 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. More info: 631-923- 3724, elsuenomexicangrill.com

FaxChix (868 Horseblock Rd., Farmingville): All your Portuguese culinary needs met, plus a smattering of Mexican dishes too. The star of the show here is the chargrilled chicken. pickup and delivery. Open for pickup and delivery every day from 10:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. More info: 631-736-4600, faxchixrestaurant.com

Go Greek (180 7th St., Garden City): This Greek spot has carved out a niche as a casual, quick-serve restaurant that nevertheless elevates Greek food above that of the average gyro joint. Open for pickup and delivery Monday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. More info: 516-746-2222, gofreshgreek.com

Grassroots (671 Glen Cove Ave., Glen Head): This health-oriented eatery / juice bar is powering through with a vegetable-forward menu that also comprises lasagna Bolognese and Philly fluff cake. Updates, and fun videos from owner Rob Mansfield, on Facebook. Open for pickup and delivery Monday to Friday 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., Saturday to 3 p.m. More info: 516-671-1616, grassrootsme.com

The Gristmill (144 Main St., East Rockaway): The wide-ranging menu of this eclectic pub-pizzeria has been condensed but still includes plenty of choices, lamb meatballs, macaroni and cheese (with housemade pasta and brick-oven wings among them. Don’t forget the Neapolitan pizzas. Updates on Facebook and Instagram. Open for pickup and delivery Tuesday to Friday and Sunday from 4 to 8 p.m., Saturday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. More info: 516-792-6104, thegristmillbob.com

Holy Smoke Grill (3357 Merrick Rd., Wantagh): An abbreviated menu includes the supernal grilled chicken and succulent pork skewers. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 516-557-2754, facebook.com/HolySmokeGrill

Island Empanada ((601 Portion Rd., Ronkonkoma): Four locations of this Latin American eatery are open, serving dozens of types of empanadas as well as pernil (braised pork). (Other locations at 29 Rocky Point Yaphank Rd., Rocky Point; 1912B Deer Park Ave., Deer Park; 2040 Route 112, Medford). More info: 631-617-6427, islandempanada.com

Lido Kosher Deli (641 E. Park Ave., Long Beach): Lido Deli has been keeping Long Beach in (homemade) knishes since 1930, when Wally Goetz's grandfather, Hugo Weinberg, opened the store. All your kosher deli favorites, from chicken in the pot to kasha varnishkes to pastrami sandwiches. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 516-431-4411, lidokosherdeli.com

Marie Blachere (550 Middle Neck Rd., Great Neck): Sandwiches, salads and pastries but most of all fresh baguettes. Bread which freezes great and can be ordered par-baked. Buy 3 loaves get one free. Open for pickup and delivery every day from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. More info: 516-487-0864, marieblachereus.com

Masalah Grill (195 Walt Whitman Rd., Huntington Station): It's easy to miss this tiny jewel box of a Pakistani-Indian restaurant that has grown to be a standard-bearer for South Asian cuisine. Bonus: curries and biryanis travel well. Open Tuesday to Sunday for pickup and delivery. More info: 631-271-1700, masalahgrill.com

The Onion Tree (​242 Sea Cliff Ave., ​Sea Cliff): This new Indian-inflected gastropub, from Jay and Raquel Jadeja of Oakdale’s Wild Side Organic Bistro, is featuring a family-style curry dinner for four: Choose one of three curries — butter chicken, vegan vegetable-lentil stew or palak paneer (spinach with fresh cheese)--and you’ll also get rice, roti (whole-wheat flatbread), papad (crisp bean wafer) and kachumber (chopped salad). Also: Neapolitan pizza. Open for pickup and delivery Thursday to Sunday from 4 to 8 p.m. More info: 516-916-5353, theoniontree.com

Pasha Kebob and Grill (656 NY-109, Lindenhurst): One of Long Island’s very best Mediterranean restaurants, Pasha specializes in the Turkish repertoire of grilled kebabs, served with either rice or bulgur and house-baked bread. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 631-225-7499, kebobtonight.com

Pita Pit (812 Wheeler Rd., Hauppauge): Opened in December, this chain’s first Long Island location offers a wide selection of pocket pita sandwiches, plus quesadillas, smoothies and more. Open for pickup and delivery Monday to Saturday from noon to 8 p.m. More info: 631-780-6655, pitapitusa.com

Post Office Café (130 W. Main St., Babylon): The new $50 family meals to go let customers choose a salad and entree for four people ($12 per additional person); those larger plates comprise crowd pleasers such as chicken Parmesan, braised short ribs and rigatoni alla vodka. (You’ll also find the same deal at sister restaurants Library Cafe in Farmingdale and Maxwell’s in Islip). Open for pickup and delivery every day from noon to 8 p.m., to 9 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. More info: 631-669-9224, lessings.com

Punta Cana (162 Post Ave., Westbury): Dominican-ish DIY rice-and-bean bowls, salads, mofongo, empanadas and more. Punta Cana is now selling uncooked empanadas, too: Buy a few dozen, keep them in the fridge or freezer and bake or fry them at home. Open for pickup and delivery every day from noon to 8 p.m. (Other location at 1 N. Park Ave., Rockville Centre). More info: 516-280-4099, eatpuntacana.com

Swell Taco (135 Deer Park Ave., Babylon): Take the beachside vibe home with tacos, burritos and nachos — and margaritas. Open for pickup and delivery. (Other location at 30 E. Main St., Patchogue). More info: 631-482-1299; swelltacoli.com

Turkuaz Mediterranean Gourmet (493 Hempstead Tpke., West Hempstead): One of Long Island’s best Turkish restaurants, Turkuaz excels with kebabs, salads, savory pies and pastry. Mediterranean groceries also available. Open every day from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. for pickup and delivery. More info: 516-280-2973, turkuazmediterraneangourmet.com

Vicky's Casa del Sabor (771 N. Wellwood Ave., Lindenhurst): A full-service Latin deli with a specialty in empanadas. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 631-225-5040, vickyscasadelsabor.com

Viva La Vida (1611 Montauk Hwy., Oakdale): This long-standing Mexican restaurant is now pouring margaritas and sangria to go along alongside tacos, gorditas, tostadas, burritos and other traditional fare. Open for pickup every day from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. More info: 631-589-2300, vivalavidaoakdale.com

Backyard Barbeque (300 Woodcleft Ave., Freeport): The specialty of the house is brisket rubbed with lemon pepper. Open for pickup and delivery Thursday to Sunday from noon to 8 p.m. More info: 516-771-4227, bbqonthemile.com

Biscuits & Barbeque (106 E 2nd St., Mineola): The little refurbished diner is serving its regular menu of barbecue and Southern and Cajun favorites. For the first time, credit cards are accepted as well as cash. Open for pickup Tuesday to Friday from 2 to 8 p.m., Saturday and Sunday from 1 to 8 p.m. More info: 516-493-9797, biscuitsandbarbeque.com

Dang BBQ (174 Islip Ave., Islip): Both the original Islip location and the new one in Seaford are serving the regular menu as well as “heat-and-eat” meals. Open for pickup and delivery Wednesday and Thursday from 2 to 9 p.m., Friday to Sunday from noon to 9 p.m. (Other location at 3864 Merrick Rd., Seaford). More info: 631-581-3264, dangbbq.com

Maple Tree BBQ Smokehouse (820 W. Main St., Riverhead): In addition to its regular menu of barbecue favorites, Maple Tree is also offering family packs and “taco weekends.” Open for pickup and delivery Thursday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Friday and Saturday to 8 p.m. and Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. More info: 631-727-2819, mapletreebbq.com

Mara’s Southern Kitchen (236 W. Jericho Tpke., Syosset): Mara’s is serving an abbreviated version of its menu of Southern and Cajun specialties (crawfish are currently in season) plus barbecue. You can also take advantage of its unusually deep bar. Open for pickup and delivery every day noon to 6:30 p.m. More info: 516-682-9200, marasouthernkitchen.com

Old Fields Barbecue (15 New St., Huntington): The smokers are still going at the Old Fields Barbecue spots where slabs of brisket, racks of ribs and smoked, pulled chicken offer a hearty template for family-style dining. Order directly through the website. Open every day from 4 to 8 p.m. for pickup and delivery in Huntington, pickup only at Setauket. (Other location at 130 Old Town Rd., Setauket). More info: 631-923-1515, of1956.com

Rolling Smoke Grill: The Lake Ronkonkoma restaurant is currently moving to larger quarters but, in the meantime, the truck is up and running, usually stationed in Setauket on Route 347 between North Belle Mead and Wireless Roads. Check Facebook and Instagram for updates. More info: 516-509-6306, rollingsmokegrill.com

Sempre Fame (374 Tulip Ave., Floral Park): The “always hungry” Cavallo brothers, John and Chris, are serving their regular menu, as well as a brand-new “Corona Killer” sandwich of smoked brisket, pulled pork, melted mozzarella, bacon and hot cherry-pepper sauce. New ordering procedure is outlined on the website. Open for pickup Monday to Thursday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Friday and Saturday to 9 p.m., Sunday to 7 p.m. More info: 516-488-7900, semprefame.com

Smok-Haus (7 12th St., Garden City): This barbecue restaurant's "corona buster" barbecue packages combine heaps of barbecued meat with slider rolls and sides such as pickled veggies, rice and baked beans. $39.00 to $99.99. Open for pickup and delivery Tuesday to Friday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday 2 to 8 p.m., Sunday 2 to 7 p.m. More info: 516-986-8568, smok-haus.com

Smoked Barn (2932 Hempstead Tpke., Levittown): Barbecue with a Peruvian twist. Check Facebook for menu and specials such as a rack of ribs, whole chicken, fried rice and two sides for $50. Open for pickup Wednesday to Sunday from noon to 9:30 p.m. More info: 516-396-9892

Smokin Al's (4847 Merrick Rd., Massapequa Park): Al Horowitz is still smoking, serving his entire, crowd-pleasing menu. Open for pickup every day from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., from noon on Sunday. More info: 516-799-4900, smokinals.com

Smokin' Wolf (199 Pantigo Rd., East Hampton): Arthur Wolf's Smokin' Wolf is the heir to Turtle Crossing, the seminal Long Island barbecue restaurant where he was executive chef. The menu has a Southwestern bent, with guacamole, quesadillas, fish tacos and fajitas rubbing shoulders with pulled pork, ribs, brisket and sausage. Wolf has a jones for fowl: chicken is barbecued, roasted and fried; duck and turkey are smoked. Eat in, eat outside, take out and Smokin' Wolf will also cater your event. More info: 631-324-7166, smokinwolfbbq.com

Stuey's Smokehouse BBQ (50 Birch Hill Rd., Locust Valley): Pitmaster John Zervoulakos would rather sell out than reheat yesterday's barbecue, so call in your order or come early. Open for pickup Wednesday to Sunday from noon 6 p.m. More info: 516-277-2202, stueysbbq.com

Swingbellys Beachside BBQ (909 W. Beech St., Long Beach): The long-running Long Beach smokehouse is serving its regular menu. Open for pickup and delivery every day from 1 to 10 p.m. More info: 516-431-3464, swingbellyslongbeach.com

Townline BBQ (3593 Townline Rd., Sagaponack): By its nature, barbecue can feed scads of people. At Townline, choose from pulled pork by the quarter, half or full pound; St. Louis-style ribs by the half- or full dozen (or even just one, if you wish); and half a smoked chicken, all at varying prices. Sides range from fries to baked beans to coleslaw, and in lieu of tips. Curbside pickup Wednesday to Sunday from noon to 7 p.m. More info: 631-537-2271, townlinebbq.com

Albert’s Mandarin Gourmet (269 New York Ave., Huntington): The village’s longtime go-to for Chinese. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 631-673-8188, http://mandaringourmetli.com

Chef Wang (1902 Jericho Tpke., New Hyde Park): The menu — encompassing Chinese-American and regional Chinese cuisines — can be viewed on the website. Open for pickup and delivery Tuesday to Saturday 11:30 a.m.to 8:30 p.m., Sunday from 12:30 to 8:30 p.m. Credit cards only. More info: 516-354-2858, chefwangny.com

Cheng Du (947 Hempstead Tpk., Franklin Square): Hearty, full-flavored specialties from Sichuan province — plus some Chinese-American favorites. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 516-358-1603, chengduny.com

Dynasty (405 E. Main St., Port Washington): Long-standing local Chinese restaurant with classic Chinese-American menu. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 516-883-4100, dynastyofportwashington.com

Eastern Pavillion (750 NY-25A, Setauket): The menu of Chinese-American and authentic Chinese dishes is available online. Open for pickup and delivery every day from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. More info: 631-751-1888, easternpavilliontogo.com

Empire Garden (1656 Hillside Ave., New Hyde Park): Long-standing local Chinese restaurant with classic Chinese-American menu. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 516-358-8888, empiregardennewhydepark.com

F.A.N. Authentic Chinese Cuisine (534 Commack Rd., Deer Park): Refined regional specialties from all over China — plus some Chinese-American favorites. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 631-586-6888, fanchinesefood.com

Fortune Wheel (3601 Hempstead Tpke., Levittown): This seafood-centric Cantonese restaurant is open on a limited schedule: Friday to Sunday from 11 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. for pickup. More info: 516-579-4700

Golden Temple (417 Jericho Tpke., Syosset): Chinese cuisine (including some regional specialties such as Sichuan cabbage and pork noodle soup) plus sushi and a smattering of Thai. Open for pickup and delivery every day from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. More info: 516-364-6476, goldentempleny.com

Hunan Taste (3 Northern Blvd. Greenvale): Gold Coast stalwart for Cantonese and Chinese-American dishes. Favorites include the hybrid wonton-eggdrop soup and all seafood dishes. More info: 516-621-6616, hunantasteny.com

Jen’s Chinese Food (1336 Hicksville Rd., Massapequa): See the website for selections from Jen’s regular menu, as well as the new healthy “Mugu” menu. Open for pickup and delivery from Tuesday to Sunday noon to 8:30 p.m. More info: 516-541-6148, jenschinese.com

Jiang Hu (30 Route 25A, East Setauket): The new Chinese eatery focuses regional Chinese — soup dumplings, scallion pancakes, seaweed-pork soup red-braised pork belly with chestnuts, salt-and-pepper shrimp, cumin lamb and spicy kidneys — but current supply issues may limit the menu. Try the new special, housemade beef jerky. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 631-364-9811, jianghu.us

Long Island Pekin (96 E. Main St., Babylon): Roast Peking duck and exquisite dumplings are the specialties of the house, open for pickup. More info: 631-587-9889, longislandpekin.com

Orchid (730 Franklin Ave., Garden City): This old-school Garden City Chinese has a 6-year-old menu posted on its Facebook page that can serve as a guide to what’s available. Open every day from noon to 8 p.m. for pickup. More info: 516-742-1116

Orient Odyssey (511 N. Broadway, Jericho, 516-719-0021): Cantonese-style seafood, casseroles and stir-fries — plus Chinese-American favorites. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: orientodysseyjericho.com

Pearl East (1191 Northern Blvd., Manhasset): Everything but sushi is available at this North Shore stalwart. Open for pickup every day from noon to 9 p.m. More info: 516-365-9898

Wong’s Noodle Town (1123 Old Country Rd., Plainview): Classic Chinese takeout. More info: 516-822-0888, http://wongsnoodletown.com/

Yum Yum Dumpling (2432 Middle Country Rd., Centereach): Dozens of dumplings, boiled or pan fried, plus noodles, soups, xianbing (flatbreads) and regional and American-style Chinese dishes. Open for pickup and delivery Tuesday to Sunday from 2 to 9 p.m. More info: 631-676-3148, yumyumdumplings.com

Zouji Dumpling House (188 Glen Cove Ave., Glen Cove): An extensive menu of dumplings and other Northern Chinese dishes — plus Chinese-American favorites. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 516-801-4848, zoujidumpling.com

For East End restaurants that pivoted to takeout, the season has come early this year. Part-time residents heading out from up-Island have joined full-timers and they are all hungry. Here is a selection of restaurants on both forks that are open for business. Bear in mind that, for now, hours, menus and policies are in flux. 

NORTH FORK

A Mano (13550 Main Rd., Mattituck): The casual trattoria-pizzeria is open every evening except Tuesday for curbside pickup. More info: 631-298-4800, amanorestaurant.com

Buoy One (1175 West Main St., Riverhead): The casual classic-American seafooder is serving the menu plus items from the retail fish market. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 631-208-9737, buoyone.com

Green Hill Kitchen & Que (48 Front St., Greenport): Casual eats and barbecue for takeout and delivery Wednesday to Sunday anywhere on the East End. Also on offer: a 3-day quarantine BBQ kit that needs only to be reheated and assembled. More info: 631-477-4900, greenhillny.com

Lucharitos (119 Main St., Greenport): Both branches of the North Fork’s all-singing, all-dancing Mexican restaurant are open every day from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. for curbside pickup and delivery. Bar menu too. (Other location at 487 Main Rd., Aquebogue). More info: 631-477-6666, lucharitos.com

Maple Tree BBQ Smokehouse (820 W. Main St., Riverhead): In addition to its regular menu of barbecue favorites, Maple Tree is also offering family packs and “taco weekends.” Open for pickup and delivery Thursday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Friday and Saturday to 8 p.m. and Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. More info: 631-727-2819, mapletreebbq.com

North Fork Roasting Co. (55795 Main Rd., Southold): Open every day from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. and serving the full menu of beverages and baked goods plus a limited food menu and, of course, freshly roasted coffee beans. Curbside pickup. More info: 631-876-5450, noforoastingco.com

Pizza Rita (55 Middle Rd., Mattituck): Last year, Jeff Marrone's Pizza Rita graduated from mobile catering truck to bricks-and-mortar store, taking over a workaday slice joint that had never seen this level of artistry. Marrone, who named his pizzeria after his grandmother, is pretty much a one-man show, making the pies, answering the phones, making his own gelato. All the pies display chewy, leopard-spotted rims and just-this-side-of-lavish toppings; the cannolo (randomly named; bearing no relationship to the dessert) is a symphony of mozzarella (made by the chef), ricotta, sausage, oyster and button mushrooms, finished with pecorino, and extra-virgin olive oil. More info: 631-315-5557. Open Thursday to Sunday.

Sunny’s Riverhead Diner & Grill (87 East Main St., Riverhead). The friendly little diner is keeping Riverhead well sandwiched. Check Facebook for daily specials. Open for pickup and delivery Monday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. More info: 631-381-0381

Tweeds (17 E Main St., Riverhead): The long-standing Riverhead restaurant is serving its entire menu for takeout and delivery, plus booze. Open every day from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. More info: 631-237-8120, tweedsrestaurantriverhead.com

SOUTH FORK

Beach Bakery (112 Main St., Westhampton Beach): Baked goods and casual eats from Westhampton Beach’s Main Street stalwart. Curbside pickup every day from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. More info: 631-288-6552, beachbakerycafe.com

Buoy One (62 Montauk Hwy., Westhampton): The casual classic-American seafooder is serving the menu plus items from the retail fish market. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 1175 West Main St., Riverhead, 631-208-9737 and, 631-998-3808; buoyone.com

The Bell & Anchor (3253 Noyack Rd., Sag Harbor): An extensive selection of surf and turf starters and entrees to include a half-dozen oysters on the half shell (Montauk pearls) for $15 is available at this East End favorite. All wine is 25% off too. Tuesday to Sunday from 3:30 to 7 p.m. More info: 631-725-3400, bellandanchor.com

Bistro Ete (760 Montauk Hwy, Water Mill): Chef Arie Pavlou has adapted his “coastal French cuisine” for takeout. The ever-changing to-go menu is posted on the website. ​Open for pickup and delivery Wednesday to Sunday from 4 to 8 p.m. More info: call 631-500-9095 or text 631-466-5770, bistroete.com

Coche Comedor (74A Montauk Hwy., Amagansett): The 3-star modern Mexican restaurant is serving dinner Wednesday to Sunday from 4 to 8 p.m. Curbside pickup. More info: 631-267-5709, cochecomedor.com

Estia’s Little Kitchen (1615 Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike, Sag Harbor): Eclectic, locally driven Mexican-inflected New American comfort food from chef-owner Colin Ambrose. Curbside pickup from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Friday to Sunday. More info: 631-725-1045, estias.com

Fresno Restaurant (8 Fresno Place, East Hampton): Enjoy Fresno’s relaxed, New American cuisine at home with a special takeout menu for curbside pickup. Plus beer, wine and batched cocktails. Thursday to Monday from 3:30 to 7 p.m. More info: 631-324-8700, fresnorestaurant.com

Lulu Kitchen & Bar (126 Main St., Sag Harbor): To-go prepared foods are available by the quart or pound for dinner tonight or stocking the fridge for the week, plus discounted wines from the wine list. Open for curbside pickup Wednesday to Saturday from 3 to 8 p.m. More info: 631-725-0900, lulussagharbor.com

Nick & Toni’s (136 N. Main St., East Hampton): The iconic Hamptons hot spot is offering a special takeout menu of antipasti, primi and secondi, the latter to include free range chicken and Wagyu New York strip. Wednesday to Sunday from 5 to 9 p.m. More info: 631-324-3550, nickandtonis.com

Plaza Cafe (61 Hill St., Southampton): Southampton’s refined seafood restaurant is concentrating all its energy into a casual menu served out of its food truck. There’s fisherman’s chowder and seafood tacos, but also an Angus burger, Kobe hot dog and Parmesan fries. More info: 631-283-9323, plazacafesouthampton.com

Rowdy Hall (10 Main St., East Hampton): Upscale pub food and a wide range of craft beers with which to fill your growler. Check Facebook for daily specials. Open for pickup every day but Wednesday and Sunday from 2 to 8 p.m. More info: 631-324-8555, rowdyhall.com

Smokin' Wolf (199 Pantigo Rd., East Hampton): Arthur Wolf's Smokin' Wolf is the heir to Turtle Crossing, the seminal Long Island barbecue restaurant where he was executive chef. The menu has a Southwestern bent, with guacamole, quesadillas, fish tacos and fajitas rubbing shoulders with pulled pork, ribs, brisket and sausage. Wolf has a jones for fowl: chicken is barbecued, roasted and fried; duck and turkey are smoked. Eat in, eat outside, take out and Smokin' Wolf will also cater your event. More info: 631-324-7166, smokinwolfbbq.com

Swallow East Restaurant (474 West Lake Dr., Montauk): LI’s easternmost gastropub is open from Wednesday to Sunday, serving food as well as wine, beer and cocktails. More info: 631-668-8344, swalloweastrestaurant.com

Townline BBQ (3593 Townline Rd., Sagaponack): By its nature, barbecue can feed scads of people. At Townline, choose from pulled pork by the quarter, half or full pound; St. Louis-style ribs by the half- or full dozen (or even just one, if you wish); and half a smoked chicken, all at varying prices. Sides range from fries to baked beans to coleslaw, and in lieu of tips. Curbside pickup Wednesday to Sunday from noon to 7 p.m. More info: 631-537-2271, townlinebbq.com

Anchor Down (1960 Bayberry Ave., Merrick): Casual but refined seafood and more, including clams and oysters on the half shell, lobster rolls and lobster pot pie. Open for pickup and delivery Sunday 3 to 8 p.m. and Tuesday to Thursday 3 to 9 p.m. More info: 516-544-4334, anchordownny.com

Bistro Etc. (43B Main St., Port Washington): A new menu, including family dinners (for 2 to 6 people) and kids’ meal, is posted on the website, along with daily specials. Orders can be places up to 7 days in advance. Open for pickup and delivery Tuesday to Sunday from 5 to 8 p.m. from 5 to 8 p.m. More info: 516-472-7780, bistroetc.com

Bryant & Cooper Steakhouse (2 Middle Neck Rd., Roslyn): From prime rib to porterhouse, the steakhouse's full menu is available every day from 4:30 to 8 p.m. for pickup. The butcher shop is also open. More info: 516-627-7270, pollrestaurants.com

City Cellar (1080 Corporate Dr., Westbury): A condensed version of the restaurant’s usual upscale, New American menu with Italian overtones (including wood-fired pizza) is on the website. Open every day for pickup (25% discount) and delivery from noon to 8 p.m. More info: 516-693-5400, citycellarny.com

Eat Mosaic (418 N. Country Rd., St. James): No global pandemic is going to stop Mosaic from cooking a changing up its menu every few days. Keep up to date with the family-style menus (available hot or cold) on the website. Open for pickup Tuesday to Saturday from 4 to 7 p.m. More info: 631-584-2058, eatmosaic.com

H2O Seafood and Sushi (215 W Main St., Smithtown): The Bohlsen restaurant group has consolidated its operations at H2O on the North Shore, Tellers on the South Shore. Accordingly, H2O is serving seafood and sushi, as usual, plus steakhouse and Italian selections. Open for pickup and delivery Wednesday to Sunday from 4 to 8 p.m. More info: 631-361-6464, h2oseafoodsushi.com

The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House (25 Main St., Roslyn): The Jolly Fisherman opened in 1957 and has been owned by three generations of the Scheiner family. Steven Scheiner is the current chef-owner of the very traditional, ever-reliable seafood house that is braving the pandemic with an abbreviated menu that includes most favorites, including shrimp cocktail, soft-shell crabs, pan-seared Chilean sea bass and roast duck. More info: 516-621-0055, jollyfishermanrestaurant.com 

LB Social (62 W. Park Ave., Long Beach): Matt Hisiger’s New American restaurant is feeding Long Beach residents and health-care workers alike. Menu on website and daily specials are posted on Facebook around 2 p.m. Call the restaurant or text order to 516-350-8374. Open for pickup and delivery Tuesday to Sunday from 3 to 8 p.m. More info: 516-431-7846, lbsocialny.com

Leilu (10 New St., Huntington): The regular New American-Italian menu is available, as well as family meals from pasta to rice bowls. Open for pickup and delivery Tuesday to Sunday 3 to 9 p.m. More info: 631-944-3111, https://www.leiluhuntington.com/

Meritage Wine Bar (90 School St., Glen Cove): This wine bar has shifted to family-style menus for the duration, the menus are posted on Facebook and Instagram. On most Thursdays and Sundays owner Alex Fiorentino is holding wine classes on Zoom: pick up the wine beforehand and drink along. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 516-801-0055, meritagebar.com

Mirabelle (150 Main St., Stony Brook): Guy Reuge's standard-bearer for elegant, French-inflected cuisine is serving a menu ginger-almond tart is back with a menu of takeout-friendly dishes. More info: 631-751-0555, mirabelletavern.com

Nautilus Cafe (46 Woodcleft Ave., Freeport): This venerable seafood restaurant has an abbreviated menu that includes grilled salmon and swordfish, jumbo shrimp scampi and two-pound lobsters. Wednesdays are 2-for-1 lobster night, and Thursdays are prime rib night. There’s also a small selection of retail meats and fish. Open for pickup Wednesday to Sunday. More info: 516-379-2566, nautiluscafe.com

Neraki (273 Main St., Huntington): The Greek seafood restaurant is serving as much of its menu as possible: Owner Alex Moschos goes to the Fulton Fish Market every night. Stay up to date with the offerings on Facebook and Instagram. Open for pickup and delivery Tuesday to Friday from noon to 8 p.m., Saturday 1 to 8 p.m., Sunday 2 to 8 p.m. More info: 631-385-3474

Salumi (5600 Merrick Rd., Massapequa) This wine bar has gotten into a lockdown groove with three-course family meals for two, four or six, delivered chilled and ready to heat. Most meat/cheese boards, tapas and sandwiches are also available. Check website for specials and wine videos. Open for pickup and delivery every day from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. More info: 516-620-0057, barplancha.com

Tellers (605 Main St., Islip): The Bohlsen restaurant group has consolidated its operations at Tellers on the South Shore, H2O on the North Shore. Accordingly, Tellers is serving its steakhouse menu plus some H2O sushi and selected Asian dishes from Monsoon. Open for pickup and delivery every day from noon to 8 p.m. More info: 631-277-7070, tellerschophouse.com

Thyme (8 Tower Pl., Roslyn): No pondside views, but lots of comforting New American dishes. Available a la carte or family style from the “gourmet market menu.” Order online 24/7; preorders recommended. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 516-625-2566, thymenewyork.com

388 Italian Restaurant & Catering (388 Willis Ave., Roslyn Heights): Takeout, curbside and no-contact delivery is a first for this Roslyn spot, which offers family-style portions by default — salads, pasta and an array of meat and fish dishes, starting at $15 and topping out at $50, for Chilean sea bass. Open for pickup and delivery every day from noon to 9 p.m. More info: 516-621-3888, 388restaurant.com

Amici (304 Route 25A, Mount Sinai): In addition to regular menu of Italian favorites, offering a mix-and-match option: select from a list of 20 dishes (penne alla vodka, linguine and clams, chicken Parm, sausage and peppers, Caesar salad and more) and get 5 for $25, 10 for $50. Open for pickup and delivery Tuesday to Sunday 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. More info: 631-473-2400, amicirestaurant.org

Cafe Testarossa (499 Jericho Tpke., Syosset): Chef-owner Billy Sansone continues to serve his elegant, seasonally inspired menu, but has added more casual items as well as fixed-price and family-style deals. Check Instagram and Facebook for daily specials. Open for pickup Thursday to Sunday from 4 to 8 p.m. More info: 516-364-8877, cafetestarossa.com

Cipollini Trattoria & Bar (2110 Northern Blvd., Manhasset): Patrons can order from reduced menu of Italian specialties. Open for pickup every day from 4 to 8 p.m. More info: 516-627-7172, pollrestaurants.com

Cinque Terre Ristorante (872 East Jericho Tpke., Huntington Station): Imagine Cinque Terre’s spacious, ornate dining room while you enjoy its upscale Italian menu at home. Open for pickup and delivery Monday to Friday from noon to 9 p.m., Saturday and Sunday from 1 to 9 p.m. More info: 631-923-1255, cinqueterreli.com

Emlio’s (2201 Jericho Tpke., Commack) All your pizza, pasta and Parm needs met, plus mix-and-match family meals. Open for pickup and delivery every day from 11:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. More info: 631-462-6267, emilioscommack.com

ITA Kitchen (45 W. Main St., Bay Shore): The menu is now focused on family meals for two, four and six people. The four courses comprise a salad, choice of starter (such as rice balls or stuffed mushrooms), pasta (penne with marinara, vodka, filetto sauce or baked) and a choice of entree (such as chicken Francese, Parm or Marsala or sausage and peppers). Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 631-267-5916, itakitchenbayshore.com

La Nonna Bella (660 Franklin Ave., Garden City): Chef-owner Lino De Vivo is cooking his menu of Southern Italian and Italian American dishes for pickup. Wine too. Check Facebook for specials and updates. Open for pickup Tuesday to Sunday from 4 to 8 p.m. More info: 516-248-0366, lanonnabella.com

Mamma Lombardi’s (400 Furrows Rd., Holbrook): Central Suffolk’s bastion of Italian American cooking is offering its full menu and its whole wine cellar. Open for pickup and delivery every day from 3 to 8 p.m. More info: 631-737-0774, mammalombardis.com

Orto (90 N. Country Rd., Miller Place): Eric Lomando's rustic, seasonal cooking has long made Orto a go-spot for authentic Italian cuisine. An abbreviated menu, on the website, includes fixed-price and family-style options. Open for pickup and delivery every day from 1 to 8 p.m. Cash only. More info: 631-473-0014, restaurantorto.com

Patrizia's (1040 S. Broadway, Hicksville): The Long Island branches of a restaurant empire specialize in robust, family-style fare plus brick-oven pizza. The whole menu is available, plus five family-package meals. Open every day but Monday for pickup and delivery. (Other locations at 4913 Merrick Rd., Massapequa Park and 358 Vanderbilt Motor Pkwy., Hauppauge) More info: 516-932-1600, patrizias.com

Pauly’s Pizza & Pasta (1100 Portion Rd., Farmingville): This casual Italian is offering daily specials (see Facebook) and a mix-and-match heat-at-home 10 dishes for $50. Open for pickup and delivery Sunday to Thursday 3 to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. More info: 631-736-8130, paulyspizzaandpasta.com

Pepe Rosso 24 (24 Manorhaven Boulevard, Port Washington): The full menu of Italian specialties and pizza is available. Open for pickup and delivery Monday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday from noon to 9 p.m. More info: 516-944-9477, peperosso24.com

Piccolo Mondo (1870 E. Jericho Tpke., Huntington): The refined, modern Italian has jiggered the menu to provide some simpler fare as well. Open for pickup and delivery. More info: 631-462-0718, piccolomondoli.com

Robke's (427 Fort Salonga Rd., Northport): What will the people do without their Robke's fix? Order half- and full- trays of baked clams, chicken Marsala and ravioli to go. Half trays start at $70, full trays are $100 to $150. Daily specials are posted on Facebook. Open for pickup every day from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. More info: 631-754-9663, robkesnorthport.com

Sal’s Ristorante & Bar (1012 West Jericho Tpke., Smithtown): Sal’s vast menu covers most of Italy and then some. See Facebook for daily updates and specials. Open for pickup (and delivery to health-care workers) Tuesday to Sunday from noon to 8. More info: 631-543-6000, salsofsmithtown.com

Stresa (1524 Northern Blvd., Manhasset): This high-end Italian restaurant is offering $60 family meals that feed four to six people. Customers choose one starter (think pasta fagioli soup or caprese di Bufala) and one main course (chicken Marsala, rigatoni Bolognese, et al.); bread and a dessert sampler are included. A la carte menu is 15% off. Open for pickup and delivery every day from noon to 8 p.m. More info: 516-365-6956, stresa-restaurant.com

Umberto’s of Plainview (64 Manetto Hill Rd., Plainview): The family-meal deal at this pizzeria-restaurant combines a choice of one pasta and one entree, plus a house salad and Italian bread, for $49.99. Each package feeds five to six people. Open for pickup and delivery Monday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Sunday from noon to 8 p.m. More info: 516-433-4999, umbertosplainview.com

360 Taiko Sushi (47 S. Ocean Ave., Patchogue): The enormous, exuberantly styled 360 Taiko has an encyclopedic roster of sushi rolls and Japanese-style appetizers, but nestled among them some fine ramen bowls too. Open for pickup and delivery Monday to Friday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 9:30 p.m., Saturday noon to 9:30 p.m. and Sunday 2 to 9:30 p.m. More info: 631-207-6888, 360taiko.com

Arata Sushi (18 Cold Spring Rd., Syosset): Jimmy Lian, a Nobu veteran, prepares colorful, flavorful sushi here, as well as inventive riffs on the Asian-fusion theme. Open for pickup and delivery but, in an effort to streamline, orders are only taken between 1 and 3 p.m. for that evening or the next day. More info: 516-921-8154

Hana (21 Oakland Ave., Port Jefferson): Sushi and Japanese food plus a few Korean dishes too. Open for pickup every day from 1 to 8 p.m. More info: 631-473-4262, hanapj.com

Koiso (540 Westbury Ave., Carle Place): At this venerable mom and pop, pop, Kikumatsu Mitsumori, makes the sushi and mom runs the operation and oversees the kitchen. Open for pickup Friday and Saturday from 5 to 9 p.m. More info: 516-333-3434

Kotobuki (377 Nesconset Hwy., Hauppauge): All three Kotobukis are open with the usual wide-ranging menu. Open for pickup and delivery Tuesday to Sunday from 4:30 to 9 p.m. (Other locations at 86 Deer Park Ave., Babylon and 1530 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn). More info: 631-360-3969, kotobukirestaurants.com

Kurabarn (479 New York Ave., Huntington): Huntington’s original Japanese restaurant is still turning out sushi and other specialties. Open for pickup and delivery Tuesday to Friday from noon to 2 p.m., 5:30 to 8:30 p.m., Saturday from 5:30 to 9 p.m., Sunday from 5 to 8:30 p.m. More info: 631.673.0060, kurabarn.com

MB Ramen (335 New York Ave., Huntington): A funky, global take on ramen ranging from traditional shoyu and tonkotsu to a “grilled cheese” bowl whose noodles bathe in a roasted tomato broth with smoked Gouda and garlic croutons. Open for pickup and delivery Monday to Thursday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., on Friday and Saturday to 11 p.m. and on Sunday to 9 p.m. More info: 631-923-3176, mbramenshop.com

Nikkei of Peru (55 Shore Rd., Port Washington): Hermanto and Lina Jong's rousing fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine results in a version of sushi that recalls Nobu (where the Jongs both worked) and is singular on Long Island. Open for pickup; delivery is rolling out gradually. (Other location at  8063 Jericho Tpkel, Woodbury). More info: 516-439-4201, nikkeiofperu.com

Slurp Ramen (109 West Broadway, Port Jefferson): Ramen, rice bowls and other savory Japanese soul-food dishes. Open for pickup and delivery every day from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. More info: 631-509-1166, slurpusa.com

Taka Sushi (821 Carman Ave., Westbury): Taka Yamaguchi is still at the sushi bar in Westbury. Lunch is sushi only; the dinner menu also includes food cooked in the kitchen. Open for pickup Tuesday to Saturday from noon to 2 p.m. and 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. More info: 516-876-0033

TOKU Modern Asian (2014 Northern Blvd., Manhasset): Serving the regular menu of elevated Asian fusion: sushi, salad, noodle and rice dishes, as well as the eatery's celebrated fries. Open for pickup every day from 4 to 8 p.m. More info: 516-627-8658, pollrestaurants.com

Yamaguchi (49 Main St., Port Washington): Old-school sushi at its finest. For more than 30 years, owners Akira and Yasuko Yamaguchi have been serving sushi that is focused and unadorned, and have attracted a devoted following accordingly. More info: 516-883-3500, restaurantyamaguchi.com

These days, we’re all giving our local pizzerias a workout. But if you’re looking for a special treat and are inclined to take a drive, here are some of Long Island’s best artisanal pizzerias. By “artisanal” I mean establishments whose ovens are often fueled by wood or coal, whose toothsome crusts are the result of a long, cold fermentation process and whose toppings — fresh mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, imported prosciutto — tend toward the luxe. It’s true these pies are best straight out of the oven. But there’s nothing stopping you from eating them in the car. (Otherwise, a few minutes in a 450-degree oven can restore their crisp bottoms and gooey tops.)

Like everything right now, pizzerias are in flux. Some are working through their traditional days off, some are taking extra days to restock. Call first.

Blue Moon (26 N Park Ave., Rockville Centre): One of Long Island’s few coal-burning pizzerias, Blue Moon serves up charred, blistered pies as well as rustic Italian dishes. Open for pickup and delivery Tuesday to Thursday noon to 9 p.m., Friday noon to 10 p.m., Saturday 1 to 10 p.m., Sunday 1 to 9 p.m. More info: 516-763-4900, bluemoonpizzeria.com

Centro Cucina (43 Glen Cove Rd., Greenvale): This modest little trattoria does pretty much everything well and Centro Cucina's pizza is no exception. The prosciutto pie, topped with an abundance of prosciutto, arugula, cherry tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and shaved Parmesan, is my pick, although a customer favorite is the white pie (not on the menu), laden with mozzarella, ricotta and truffle oil. More info: 516-484-3880, centrocucinacafe.com

Donatina Pizza Cafe (18 West Ave., Patchogue): They're doing it all at Donatina, John Peragine's new Patchogue pizzeria. In addition to a Neapolitan wood-burning oven, he has a wall of deck ovens for both traditional New York- and Detroit-style pies. (The latter is, essentially, a Sicilian beneath whose toppings is a crust of melted and browned brick and mozzarella cheeses.) Don’t miss the open-faced calzone, whose torpedo shape maximizes the proportion of well-browned crust. It arrives heaving with a molten filling of fresh mozzarella, ricotta, sausage and marinara sauce. More info: 631-730-7002, donatinapizza.com

Grimaldi's Pizzeria (980 Franklin Ave., Garden City): When Frank Ciolli bought Grimaldi's coal-fired pizzeria in Brooklyn in 2001, a dynasty was born. Ciolli and his partners have gone on to open Grimaldi's all over the country, but the one in Garden City, opened by Ciolli's late son Russell, was the first East Coast location opened outside of New York City. As befits its parentage, the Margherita pizza here is classic New York, almost lavishly topped with chopped tomato and fresh mozzarella. More info: 516-294-6565, grimaldisgardencity.com

The Gristmill (144 Main St., East Rockaway): The Gristmill's co-owner and pizzaiolo Jerry Miele has solved the age-old problem of choosing between pizza and calzone with this nifty hybrid, dubbed "the combo." The calzone "handle," filled with ricotta, mozzarella, pecorino and a little roasted red pepper oil, is the perfect counterpoint to his elegant, Neapolitan pie, dotted with coins of piquant pepperoni. Miele and partner John Orphanos opened their casual "brick oven bistro" last year and immediately vaulted into the top echelon of LI pizzerias. New this year is a liquor license, so you can sit at the bar and unwind while Miele plies his trade. More info: 516-792-6104, thegristmillbob.com

King Umberto's (1343 Hempstead Tpke., Elmont): John Cesarano grew up at King Umberto, the iconic Elmont pizzeria established by his father, Ciro Cesarano, and partner Rosario Fuschetto. But young Cesarano (nom de pizza: "Giovanni Chez") was determined to create something on his own and, last year, he settled on a variation of Roman-style pizza that is baked not in a pan but directly on the floor of the oven. His "metro" pie is a puffy, crusty pizza that's about 10 inches wide and 3 feet long (metro is Italian for "meter"). The metro is all about the crust, chewy yet filled with pockets of air, the result of a long, slow fermentation and gentle handling. More info: 516-352-8391, kingumberto.com

La Margherita (1231 Station Rd., Medford): When he opened La Margherita on a bucolic stretch of road in 1991, Giuseppe Illiano recalled that neither the Town of Brookhaven Building Division nor the Suffolk Department of Health had ever seen a restaurant with a wood-burning pizza oven. But he was a proud son of Naples and was determined to make proper pizza Napoletana in his second restaurant. (The first, Tony's, had opened in Medford a decade earlier.) La Margherita also makes traditional American-style pies in a deck oven, but it's the 12-inch pizzas, crafted with housemade mozzarella and canned Italian tomatoes that are closest to Illiano's heart. More Info: 631-924-0048, lamargheritapizza.com

La Pala (246 Glen St., Glen Cove): When New Yorkers travel to Naples, they invariably find fault with the pizza there: the crust is too floppy and soft, they say, the topping is too soupy. But La Pala in Glen Cove makes pizza the way it's made in Naples. The crust is puffy and light, the mozzarella and tomatoes meld beautifully — if a bit soupily. Go ahead, eat it with a knife and fork. La Pala takes its name from the paddle used to get pizza in and out of the oven. You can see a lovely old pala hanging next to the wood-burning oven. More info: 516-399-2255, lapalany.com

Naples Street Food (970 Hempstead Tpke., Franklin Square): Naples Street Food's pie is unapologetically Neapolitan. It is bordered by a puffy rim ("cornicione" in Italian) whose texture — pillowy but chewy — is the result of a long, cold fermentation and superfine "tipo 00" flour. Since 2016, when he opened his tiny pizzeria in Franklin Square, Naples-born pizzaiolo Gianluca Chiarolanza has tightened up his pies, making the crust crisper and the toppings less soupy than is traditional in Italy. The original Naples Street Food has a wood-burning oven imported from Italy and, as of December, a macaroni menu overseen by pasta savant Gigi Sachetti, formerly of Da Gigi in Lynbrook. The the new Oceanside location, which opened last year, uses an Italian-made electric oven that mimics and possibly (dare I say) improves upon its wood-burning cousin. (Other location at 2905 Long Beach Rd., Oceanside). More info: 516-673-4630, naplesstreetfoodmenu.com

Pazzo (6278 Route 25A, Wading River): Dean Sackos is a recent convert to the cult of wood. The Lake Ronkonkoma native started working the gas-fired deck oven (standard equipment at Long Island pizzerias) across the street at Cara Mia when he was 14. Two years later, he bought the pizzeria and ran it for the next 16 years. When he teamed up with Pazzo’s owner, Maria Tranchina, in 2017 the two decided to install a wood-burning oven right next to the deck ovens, and Sackos enrolled in a course to learn how to use it. He was smitten at once. “Pazzo” means crazy, and the toppings there do not disappoint. Pies are topped with braised short ribs and portobellos in a Cognac cream sauce; rosemary-fig jam with Gorgonzola, Fontina and prosciutto; spinach, artichokes and bacon in a cream sauce. This is also the rare wood-burning pizzeria that makes vegan pies with dairy-free cheese. More info: 631-929-3939, pazzorestaurantwadingriver.com

The Pie at Salvatore’s (120 E. Main St., Bay Shore): When Fred Lacagnia opened this Bay Shore pizzeria, it was a collaboration between the original Port Washington location and The Pie, another coal-oven operation in Port Jefferson. But by the end of the first year, the Port Jefferson restaurant relinquished its partnership and, in 2017, Lacagnina sold the Port Washington store. More information: 631-206-1060, salvatorescoalfiredpizza.com

Pizza Rita (55 Middle Rd., Mattituck): Last year, Jeff Marrone's Pizza Rita graduated from mobile catering truck to bricks-and-mortar store, taking over a workaday slice joint that had never seen this level of artistry. Marrone, who named his pizzeria after his grandmother, is pretty much a one-man show, making the pies, bussing the tables, answering the phones, making his own gelato. All the pies display chewy, leopard-spotted rims and just-this-side-of-lavish toppings; the cannolo (randomly named; bearing no relationship to the dessert) is a symphony of mozzarella (made by the chef), ricotta, sausage, oyster and button mushrooms, finished with pecorino, and extra-virgin olive oil. More info: 631-315-5557. Open Thursday to Sunday.

Pomodorino Rosso (47 Franklin Ave., Valley Stream): At Pomodorino Rosso, Sal Apetino has modified the Neapolitan pie to suit his gas-powered oven. The Naples-born pizzaiolo started learning his craft at Angelo’s in Flushing, one of the first wood-burning pizzerias in the city. He went on to work at Il Forno and La Pala in Glen Cove before teaming up with Antonio Bove, the chef-owner of Pomodorino Rosso. Apetino has modified the traditional cornicione — he forms a rim, but it’s not as high or puffy. Instead of the traditional leopard spots of char, his crust has a more uniformly golden hue, and the pie is altogether crisper and less floppy than you’d find in Naples. More info: 516-812-6171, pomodorinorosso.com

Red Tomato (245 Northern Blvd., East Norwich): Artisanal 12-inch pizzas, plus family-sized pies, calzones, soups, antipasti and more. Open every day from noon to 8 p.m. for pickup and delivery. More info: 516-802-2840, orderredtomatopizza.com

Salvatore's (124 Shore Rd., Port Washington): Only a coal-burning oven can make an eight-slice pie with this soulful combination of char and creaminess and Salvatore's, which opened in 1996, was the first Long Island pizzeria to use the method pioneered by New York's very first pizzerias, Lombardi's, John's, Totonno's and Patsy's (from which Salvatore's is descended). The pizzaioli here use an unorthodox technique for stretching the dough — rolling pins instead of hand-spinning — but what comes out of the 900-degree oven is the classic New York coal-fired pie. The crust is a dream, crisp but pliant, the topping is a balanced meld of fresh, milky mozzarella and chunky chopped tomatoes punctuated with little nubbins of crumbled sausage. In 2017, ownership of Salvatore's passed from founder Fred Lacagnina to brothers Pat and Dom DeSimone, with no discernible change. More info: 516-883-8457, salvatorescoalovenpizzeria.com

Saverio’s (929 Broadway, Massapequa): Massapequa’s bastion of Neapolitan wood-fired pizza is back after a short pause, as is the adjacent specialty market, A & S Pork Store. Open for pickup Tuesday to Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. More info: 516-799-0091, saveriospizza.com

Taglio (85 Mineola Blvd., Mineola): Roman-style pan pizza is the main event at Taglio ("slice" in Italian). The puffy, rectangular pies may look Sicilian but when you examine a slice in cross section, you'll see large air pockets; take a bite and note the elastic-chewy texture, the deep wheaty savor. All of this is the result of a wet, hard-to-handle dough and a dayslong process of fermentation. Chef-owner Rob Cervoni satisfies his customers tastes with "chicken bacon ranch" and eggplant Parm, but the best pies are inspired by Rome's great Pizzarium Bonci. These rotate from week to week but include prosciutto with arugula, and mortadella with artichokes and, the one I wish they had every day, potato with rosemary, a refined combination that, in turn, perplexes, entrances and obsesses. More info: 516-741-0379, tagliopizzany.com

Vulcano 081 (43 N. Village Ave., Rockville Centre): The restaurant is named after Naples' area code, and the pies have the city's signature puffy rim and floppy crust. From a roster of almost 20 pies whose toppings range from spicy salami to bacon marmalade, my favorite is the classic Margherita, honorable mention to the Diavola, ignited with spicy salami and Calabrian chili oil. More info: 516-442-5858, http://www.vulcano081.com/

Wild Side Organic Bistro & Bar (1551 Montauk Hwy., Oakdale): When Jay Jadeja and Raquel Wolf moved their restaurant from Hicksville to Oakdale in 2016, they installed a wood-burning brick oven in the new space. Jadeja spent the first few months mastering the Neapolitan art of pizza making; now Wolf has assumed the mantle of chief pizzaiola. Wild Side is a haven for restricted diets, and the vegan marinara pizza here is one of the best, topped only with San Marzano tomatoes, poached garlic, fresh oregano, olive oil and crushed red pepper. For adventurous diners looking for a little Indian-Italian fusion, try the chicken tikka masala pie, silky, mild chicken curry garnished with coriander and cumin seeds, fried green chilies and curry leaves. More info: 631-791-1800, wildsidebistro.com