The "signature ribeye" is a prime choice at Tellers in...

The "signature ribeye" is a prime choice at Tellers in Islip. (March 2013) Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti

Few steaks served on Long Island make as dramatic an entrance as the ribeye at Tellers in Islip.

Tellers, subtitled "An American Chophouse," sends out a lot of excellent beef, but only this cut is deemed a "signature" steak.

It comes in at about 38 ounces, with a trimmed bone that makes the whole thing look like an edible tennis racket, a Frenched chop from "The Flintstones" or a prop from "Braveheart."

Most important, however, is that  it's a first-class steak, 21-day dry-aged. From the 38 ounces, the total in meat is about 27. Full-flavored, with more than enough fat for lubrication, the deftly manicured rib is meant to feed one heroic appetite. It costs $65.

Add scalloped Parmesan potatoes, the house's version of Tater Tots, or some other spuds, and you're in business. To ensure that you're getting your extra quotient of protein, begin with a thick, long piece of black-pepper bacon, cured spicy-sweet, finished with a horseradish glaze.

Tellers An American Chophouse, 605 Main St., Islip; 631-277-7070.