This is the roast pork noodle soup at Ten 89...

This is the roast pork noodle soup at Ten 89 Noodle House in Stony Brook. (Apr., 2012) Credit: Newsday/Joan Reminick

The new Ten 89 Noodle House in Stony Brook expands the ever-growing list of Long Island restaurants named for their addresses. More importantly, it gives the Stony Brook University community something it's long needed: authentic Chinese food.

In a freestanding building set back from the road and across from the LIRR station, this minimalist counter service eatery puts out a menu drawing on multiple regions of China. Prices are gentle, in keeping with student budgets. The chef and co-owner, known as “Mr. Ge,“ hails from Shanghai and spent several years as head chef of Eastern Pavilion in East Setauket.

On a recent visit, every table was occupied by a young crowd, many diners of Asian descent, several not speaking in English. Nobody looked bothered by having to manage with plastic utensils and Styrofoam dinnerware. Because the spoon and fork were so flimsy, disposable wooden chopsticks  were helpful when tackling a meal-sized bowl of hearty and flavorful roast pork noodle soup ($5.95). It was rife with sliced pork, baby bok choy and fat noodles. Stir fried noodles with vegetables ($5.95) were subtly smoky. Eggplant with garlic sauce ($6.95) featured bright purple cuts of Japanese eggplant in a sauce lighter than most; sauteed baby bok choy with fresh garlic ($8.95) defined vibrancy.

Much of the business done here is takeout. There’s also free delivery, but only to Stony Brook, Setauket and East Setauket — and only for orders totaling $15 or more.

Ten 89 Noodle House is at  1089 Rte. 25A, Stony Brook, 631-689-1089.

Above: Roast pork noodle soup at Ten 89 Noodle House in Stony Brook