Terry G's Steak and Seafood Grill

A few minutes later, we were rendered oblivious to surroundings by chef-owner Terry Hasapoglou's perfect peppercorn-crusted tuna, served rare on a bed of fried spinach that crackled then melted on the tongue. Equally diverting was his "homemade mozzarella stack," made with the sweetest, deepest red .tomatoes, fresh basil, roasted peppers and red onion, everything drizzled with first-rate extra-virgin olive oil and reduced balsamic vinegar. Decor? All we cared about was on our plates.

Go at lunch and you'll get a chance to try Hasapoglou's lobster salad, a whole lobster shell stuffed with a mix of lobster chunks, mayonnaise and celery. The claws, left intact, harbor lots of sweet meat. A pub-style alternative is the superior burger. The beef is cut, aged and ground in-house; the grilled, loosely formed patty oozes mineral-rich juices. Fries are hand-cut skin-on .potatoes, a treat.

To kick off dinner, spicy Buffalo wings are not only delicious but -- according to a friend who worked at a "wing" bar in the city where the genre originated -- the real deal. Herb-flecked crab cakes, almost all crab and spice, fall apart at the touch of a fork. .Calamari with two dipping sauces are downright addictive. I was impressed by the Greek salad, made with bright Romaine, feta, fresh oregano, great tomatoes and that terrific olive oil. Spinach, bacon and mushroom salad, dressed with a warm .balsamic vinaigrette received a shot of color and crunch from chopped egg, red onion and pine nuts. What was wrong with the Caesar salad? Dill. It simply didn't belong.

For the money, it's hard to find better steak. A shell steak arrived rare, as ordered, crusty on the outside, tender and savory within. The marinated skirt steak, which overhung its plate, would get my vote as one of Long Island's best. Ribs were meaty and just smoky enough, brushed with a slightly sweet barbecue sauce.

You don't often find wild salmon on menus in these parts. Here, the delicate fish comes simply grilled or encrusted with pistachio nuts. Tuna au poivre, served with asparagus and a rice pilaf, was surface-seared to a peppery crunch; inside, it was a deep red. Good, too, was a special of sole and shrimp francaise, the lemony sauce neither too thick nor too sweet, as is often the case.

Finish with "Demetria's favorite," a warm house-made brownie with caramel gelato (nix the aerosol whipped cream) or the lush cheesecake with candied pecans and caramel sauce.

Hasapoglou speaks about remodeling. A good idea -- so long as he doesn't touch the menu.

Reviewed by Joan Reminick, 6/13/03.