Jolly Fisherman in Roslyn and more Long Island restaurants to try this weekend

As the summer wind starts giving way to autumn's, here are three veteran restaurants to ease the transition with familiar favorites.

The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House in Roslyn opened in 1957. Owner-chef Steven Scheiner is the third generation. The extra-thick cut swordfish steak with mustard sauce: excellent. Also recommended: shellfish cocktails; Blue Point oysters; baked clams; New England-style clam chowder; steamed lobster; Dover sole meunière; macadamia nut-crusted salmon; sauteed red snapper; broiled scrod; crabcakes with sauce rémoulade; filet mignon; potato pancakes; banana cream pie; chocolate cream pie. Expensive.

The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House, 25 Main St., Roslyn, 516-621-0055, jollyfishermanrestaurant.com

Benny's Ristorante in Westbury stars with regional Italian dishes and traditional style. Owner Benny DiPietro's bucatini with sardines, fennel, pine nuts, raisins and toasted  breadcrumbs is an outstanding version of the Sicilian classic. Also recommended: eggplant rollatini with goat's milk ricotta and capellini pasta; spiedino alla Romana; gnocchi with veal ragu; fettuccine alla carbonara; mushroom risotto; veal chop Milanese; strip steak with Gorgonzola cheese; herb-and-mustard crusted rack of lamb; cannoli; Italian cheesecake. Moderate to expensive.

Benny's Ristorante, 199 Post Ave., Westbury, 516-997-8111

Pace's Steak House in Hauppauge is a reliable, satisfying restaurant for beef and more. It's a long-standing highlight along Nesconset Highway. Recommended: shrimp cocktail; oysters; crabcake; tomatoes and onions; wedge salad; porterhouse steak; shell steak; filet mignon; rib-eye steak;  panino of filet mignon, onions, provolone, horseradish mayo; rack of lamb; steamed lobster; linguine with white clam sauce; creamed spinach; creamed corn; crisp fried onions; garlic mashed potatoes. Expensive.

Pace's Steak House, 325 Nesconset Hwy., Hauppauge, 631-979-7676, pacessteakhouse.com