The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House has been around since William Holdenvolunteered to blow up "The Bridge on the River Kwai." Sometimes, the menu seems that way, too. But no one minds.

The Jolly Fisherman has a pleasant water view, a pretty reliable kitchen, and the confidence that decades bring. The service generally is attentive, and the experience easygoing, unless you're here during prime time.

The seafood cocktail is a refreshing, apropos starter. The basic guideline here is to stay with the simplest preparations. Broiled and stuffed lobster and fish-and-chips are dependable choices, as are most of the broiled finfish. Skip the steaks, the Dover sole meuniere, and anything that has even the slightest hint of overorchestration.

The rice pudding for dessert will cushion the impact of the check, which arrives like the Baby Boom.

Peter M. Gianotti

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