Grilled oysters with a glass of rosé at View in...

Grilled oysters with a glass of rosé at View in Oakdale. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Summer on Long Island means lazy afternoons knocking back so many little neck clams that you lose count. But sometimes the occasion, be it a big date or a big promotion, dictates a more formal approach to seafood, one that comes in successive courses and may even involve long pants. Here are three celebration-worthy places that specialize in fish.

View (3 Consuelo Pl., Oakdale): In fine weather, the capacious dining room spills out onto an equally ample waterfront patio at the mouth of the Connetquot River, with a panoramic view of the Great South Bay beyond. The restaurant could not be more aptly named. Though View was first conceived in 2010 as a fine-dining venue, last summer’s pandemic strictures persuaded general manager Joe Scalice and chef Bill Muzio to skew more seafood shack. This year, they’ve settled into a happy groove that splits the difference. You can still get a lobster roll, popcorn shrimp, fish and chips or a steamed lobster, but also grilled local oysters, a grand raw seafood plateau, Montauk swordfish with artichoke hearts and capers in a lemon-chardonnay broth or mahi mahi with roasted corn succotash, mole and salsa verde. Scalice’s extensive wine list is full of treasures, many of which can be ordered by the glass. More info: 631-589-2694, viewoakdale.com

Noah's (136 Front St., Greenport): Situated on the North Fork just a block from the Peconic Bay, Noah’s makes the most of local produce and seafood, whether it’s raw clams and oysters from the bay, salad from Satur Farms, corn from Latham’s, barbecued Crescent Farm duck or pan-roasted local striped bass with a ratatouille and basil purée. Chef-owner Noah Schwartz also extends a friendly welcome to fish from other climes: Canadian mussels are treated to a hazelnut romesco broth with preserved lemons and andouille sausage; Tasmanian red crab finds its way into tacos with apple, cucumber, Peruvian yellow peppers and pickled onions. Of course the wine list tilts toward the North Fork, but there are plenty of interesting picks from the West Coast and Europe — and most of the selections are available by the glass. Take a seat in the industrial-chic dining room, the comfortable bar or at a table on the broad sidewalk. More info: 631-477-6720, chefnoahs.com

The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House (25 Main St., Roslyn): Yes, it’s old-fashioned, and that’s fine by us. Who isn’t charmed by a bread basket overflowing with homemade nut bread and corn muffins, or a practically extinct "relish tray" full of celery, carrots and radishes on ice? And if old-fashioned means that you can expect snapper, sole and swordfish in addition to salmon and branzino; that you can dive into a platter of fried jumbo shrimp, Ipswich clams and sweet scallops; that you can order a three-pound lobster or fish and chips with malt vinegar; that stone crabs, soft-shell crabs and bay scallops are only served in season; that you can also get prime steaks and Long Island duck a l’orange — well then, we wish there were more old-fashioned seafood restaurants on Long Island. More info: 516-621-0055, jollyfishermanrestaurant.com

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