Vintage

Vintage is the very upmarket scion of Manero's, the friendly and family-oriented steakery in Syosset.

The look of the newcomer blends art from the Western kitsch school with assorted antlers, periodic horns, an occasional firearm and enough stuffed critters to suggest several rounds were used by the interior decorator.

Vintage offers a big shrimp cocktail, and plump crab cakes, plus a snappy sweet-sour fried calamari appetizer. Have them instead of the bland barbecued shrimp or the leathery smoked tuna carpaccio.

Vintage's main event is a superior porterhouse steak for two. You could quibble about the size; one linebacker appetite might handle this cut. But enjoy it. Prime competion comes from a velvety filet mignon.

But surf-and-turf is overcooked: dry beef, rubberized lobster tail. The steamed lobster, weighing in at three pounds and $57, is the best seafood. Creamed spinach and a baked potato are the essential vegetables.

For dessert, stick with graham-cracker crusted cheesecake. You also may be ready for a glass of Port.

Peter M. Gianotti