Wellwood Grille

Paneled in an up-to-date cherry-hued wood, the place exudes both the aura of tradition and a contemporary glow. The same might be said of chef Tom Conroy's cooking.

For starters, an Asian mixed baby lettuce salad was a bright toss of field greens, mandarin oranges, dried cranberries and walnuts in a sweet plum wine vinaigrette. I especially liked its topping of wisp-thin fried soba noodles. Baked stuffed clams veered from the heavy cliche, incorporating sizeable pieces of steamed chowder clams in a moist and flavorful stuffing. I had high hopes for the crab cakes, but they came burnt - incinerated, actually - on the outside. More's the pity, since what I excavated from within was a moist and loose-textured amalgam of fresh lump crabmeat, vegetables and almost no bread crumbs. An eggplant and mozzarella "tower" looked kind of flat. Less balsamic vinaigrette would have elevated it, flavor-wise.

Any self-respecting bar should come across with a commendable burger, but the one Conroy sent out exceeded expectations. It came rare, as ordered, and had all the right characteristics - a nicely charred exterior, a juicy center, an unequivocally beefy flavor.

I was also impressed with Conroy's potato-crusted salmon - moist, flavorful fish capped with a creamy layer of herbed julienne potatoes. On a return trip, a generous special of chicken Marsala, served on a bed of linguine, had a sauce that was winey without being overly sweet. Cajun-crusted rib eye had been pan-seared; it was properly rare and spicy. And also humongous. But that steak was nearly edged off the plate by an elephantine clump of fresh broccoli. Accompanying mashed potatoes were subtly perfumed with garlic and very good. Another special starred outsize pan-fried pork chops, juicy and topped with a Mediterranean-style mix of capers, eggplant and mushrooms. I would have been happy with my bow-tie pasta with wild mushrooms (porcini, shiitake, portobello) and oven-dried tomatoes in a roasted garlic broth had it not been for the intrusion of mozzarella, an alien presence not mentioned in the menu description.

I sampled two house-made finales - a brownie sundae and a coconut cream pie - both topped with freshly whipped cream and worth every calorie.

In terms of economic worth, this is one place where the dollar goes far. I can't imagine most portions were designed to be eaten in one sitting. Or that anyone leaves without at least one doggie bag. In fact, it's possible that, with sage ordering, a night's dinner at the Wellwood might see a person through the better part of a week.

Reviewed by Joan Reminick, 11/24/2006