Burning Question: Ice cream vs. gelato

Ice cream and gelato have a lot in common. They're both made with a mixture of cream, milk, sugar, flavorings and, sometimes, eggs. That mixture is poured into a machine that freezes it while churning it. The cold, creamy result can be depended upon to delight and refresh.

In commercial parlance, the terms ice cream and gelato have become virtually interchangeable. But there are differences.

I should note that baguettes are among the simplest of classic breads. To make them, flour, water, salt and commercial yeast are mixed, kneaded, allowed to rise, then shaped and baked. When it comes to the great rustic European breads such as pain de campagne, pain au levain, pane Pugliese and ciabatta, the process is slower, more involved and relies not on commercial yeast, but on old-fashioned sourdough starters (levain and poolish in France, biga in Italy) that must be maintained and deployed with great care and skill.

It is the dearth of bakeries that practice the ancient art of sourdough that makes Long Island a tough place to get a great loaf. Blue Duck bakery in Southold (with branches in Riverhead and Southampton) is one exception.