Compound butter makes grilling great

During grilling season, everyone talks about spice rubs, marinades and barbecue sauces. But there is another less-discussed and even quicker way to add flavor to grilled foods: compound butter.

Compound butter is simply butter that has been flavored with herbs, spices or other tasty ingredients. It couldn't be easier to make. Soften some butter on the countertop (that shouldn't take long in this weather), mash it together with the flavorings of your choice and some sea salt, if desired, roll it into a log and wrap in plastic or wax paper, and refrigerate for up to 3 days (or freeze for a month or longer) until needed. Let it soften a little so it's easy to slice before using.

Let's face it: There aren't many foods that aren't improved when bathed in a little melted butter. To perfectly dress a grilled rib-eye steak or thinly pounded chicken breasts, let the meat rest for five minutes before topping with pats of compound butter with lemon and herbs. Chipotle-lime butter is great on grilled corn. Grilled shrimp get an incredible flavor boost from anchovy butter. When using compound butter, you don't have to limit yourself to grilled foods. Toss blanched green beans with some toasted sliced almonds and smoked paprika butter. Or pair steamed or boiled new potatoes (local ones should be arriving at farmers' markets any day now) with Parmesan, garlic and parsley butter.

I would rather add my own sea salt to unsalted butter than begin with salted butter. There are several good reasons for this choice. Salt is a preservative, and salted butter is allowed to stay on the supermarket shelves for weeks or even months longer than unsalted butter.

For the freshest result, it's better to buy unsalted butter, then add salt at home. When you add your own salt, you can choose any salt you like (in my rotation are Maldon sea salt from England, French fleur de sel and my new favorite, Amagansett Sea Salt, harvested in the Hamptons and sold at the Sag Harbor Farmers' Market every Saturday).

The texture of your butter will depend on the salt you choose. Maldon, with its thin flakes, adds a distinctive crunch. Amagansett Sea Salt adds a subtler texture. Fleur de sel has such fine, moist crystals that it will melt right into the butter as soon as it is added.

How much salt you add to butter will depend on the type of salt you use (crystal shape and size determine saltiness) and your taste. I like a teaspoon of fine sea salt in my savory compound butters, but you might like more or less. Compound butter isn't just for dinner. Sweet versions with honey and cinnamon are delicious on pancakes and waffles. Try melting some strawberry and honey compound butter on freshly baked corn muffins. Or place a pat of maple-blueberry compound butter on top of a steaming bowl of steel-cut oats.

RECIPE

Compound Butter with Lemon and Herbs

8 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1/4 cup finely chopped mixed fresh herbs

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1. Mash together the butter, herbs, lemon juice, salt and cayenne in a small bowl.

2. Cover with plastic, refrigerate for up to 3 days, and let come to room temperature before using.

VARIATIONS

Add the following to a stick of softened unsalted butter to create a variety of compound butters. All make 8 tablespoons:

Parmesan, garlic and parsley 1/4 cup grated Parmesan, 1/4 cup finely chopped basil, 1 small clove garlic finely chopped, 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

Smoked paprika 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro, 2teaspoons smoked paprika, 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

Chipotle and lime 1 finely chopped chipotle chili in adobo sauce, 1teaspoon grated lime zest, 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

Anchovy-lemon 2 mashed anchovies, 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley, 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Olive and herb butter 2 tablespoons finely chopped pitted black olives, 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh marjoram or thyme, 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot, 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

Honey and cinnamon 1/4 cup honey, 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1/8teaspoon fine sea salt

Maple and blueberry butter 1/4 cup chopped dried blueberries, 2 tablespoons maple syrup, 1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt

Strawberry butter 1/4 cup finely chopped strawberries, 2 tablespoons honey, 1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt