Drinks: Not too early to plan Oktoberfest brews

Not to rush things, but get ready for Oktoberfest.

Brewers already have been advancing the festivities for a couple of weeks. Since so much of the beer is so good, it pays to start early.

Oktoberfest started as a party-and-reception for the public to celebrate the wedding of Prince Ludwig of Bavaria to Princess Therese of Saxony in 1810. The brews have been pouring since.

You can select a great German 'fest beer. Four traditional beauties come from Ayinger, Paulaner, Hacker-Pschorr and Spaten. Or, consider some notable American examples of the style.

Dogtoberfest, from the dependably irreverent and very happy Flying Dog Brewery in Maryland, offers a spirited version, with a hint of caramel, at about $9 for a six-pack. Samuel Adams Octoberfest is consistent as always, a mighty malty, satisfying Bostonian. A 12-pack is about $17.

On the lighter side is Leinenkugel Oktoberfest from Wisconsin. A 12-pack: about $15. The flavor is comparatively mild, and you'll detect a trace of caramel. Left Hand Oktoberfest from Colorado is as balanced as a trapeze artist and exceedingly smooth. About $10 for a six-pack.

Look for the refreshing Magic Hat Hex Ourtoberfest, which has a subtly smoky note in a robust, invigorating Vermont brew. A 12-pack is about $17.

And you'll enjoy dipping into a new beer guide. Andy Crouch's "Great American Craft Beer: A Guide to the Nation's Finest Beers and Breweries" (Running Press, $22.95), which adds a half-dozen excellent Oktoberfest, or Märzen, choices from Millstream Brewing Co., Gordon Biersch, Summit Brewing Co., Heavy Seas Beer, Legend Brewing Co. and Stoudt's Brewing Co.