Fall fashion '10: American beauties

The morning after Valentine's Day found Fashion Week still celebrating, with lots of vibrant red at Carolina Herrera, deep pink shades at Zac Posen, even some rose prints among the military looks at Jill Stuart. At Donna Karan, though, it was a celebration of fashion's favorite color: black.

Carolina Herrera

Many designers claim to design for that "self-assured" woman, but no one instills confidence like Carolina Herrera, whose elegant fall collection ran the gamut from ladies-who-lunch suits to movie- star gowns. Who wouldn't swagger in a chocolate sable jacket with wide-leg pinstriped pants and the Carolina classic white shirt? A deep red wool dress with asymmetrical pleating was the essence of refinement. Colors were rich (you should be too if you want to buy these clothes) - Prussian blue, chocolate, steel blue. And the finale, a double line of models showing the scope of Herrera's work, was so beautiful you could weep.

- Anne Bratskeir

Donna Karan

OK, so bottom line: black is the new black, but no one did it better than Donna Karan, who called her collection "Forever Black." Her smashing parade of textural pieces was simultaneously modern and regal - perfect for urban princesses. Donna's famous body suit was the foundation for a series of sculpted skirts in graveled, waxed, or rubberized finishes. Feminine dresses incorporated lace or feathers, but most dramatic were huge doubled collars that framed the face - romantic but hip. Forty-seven looks and four had color - a pop of magenta, and a bit of blue.

- Anne Bratskeir

Jill Stuart

If there's such a thing as "Guerrilla Glam," Stuart has found it. Her looks for day - minis that combine draped wool and camouflage-print silk, massive military coats with studded leather utility belts, a tomato overcoat with Hummer-size hood - will leave you cozy, contained, protected. Sweet moments pop up for evening, with swaddled-fabric minis in iridescent purple or electric blue; a silk number in a lip-smack print; or one with roses dappled over an abstract design. This may be Stuart's most wearable collection in years - as long as you're willing to wear those high-heeled, over-the-knee boots, which looked both warm . . . and hot.

- Joseph V. Amodio

Diane von Furstenberg

"I always wanted to live a man's life in a woman's body," wrote von Furstenberg in her program. To that end she worked the masculine/feminine balancing act, producing unexpected (and fun) combos such as a heavy hunter green cardigan atop a fluttery multicolored chiffon dress. Many of her separates were plucked from his closet, including structured blazers - perfect toppers over tulle bottomed minis, floaty frocks and glittery skirts. For girly-girls only: a silver lamé dress with flower appliqués, and the flirty jersey silk wrap that conjured a butterfly. One fashion type summed it up: "Diane really just wants her customers to look good." And you will.

- Anne Bratskeir

Zac Posen

What a morning treat at Zac Posen where violinist Miri Ben Ari performed, drawing "bravos" from the crowd. And Zac put out some flirty dresses to cheer about as well. The cutest brought to mind Olympic skaters - flippy, body-conscious little numbers in winter-busting shades of magenta and fuchsia, along with a few cheery floral. There were foxy furs - puffy affairs, many two-toned. Not so flashy, but smart, were ladylike separates - a great cape in camel, a longish lavender jacket with tailored pants. And of course, there was the perfect little cocktail frock, a Zac staple, in off-black.

- Anne Bratskeir

Tracy Reese

At Tracy Reese's packed show, models, in ribbed tights and huge chunky scarves weren't in a hurry - they meandered down the runway at a snail's pace showing off their mellow, easy-does-it cool-chick duds. The look was very good but unexpectedly hard-edged since Reese is better known for her girlie, sweet stuff. A cardigan got its groove with fur sleeves, a distressed faux leather coat topped a pretty jade cami. Even the frothy stuff was toughened up: a pretty blue ensemble included a lacy skirt and a camisole, embellished with nail heads.

- Anne Bratskeir

Betsey Johnson

Hey, pardner, what time's the stage coach due in? Miss Betsey time-warped us back to the wild, wild West, littering her runway with hay, dust, "bandits" (with robber masks and plastic guns), gamblers (one in a dice bodysuit; another, a red striped sweater with Marilyn Monroe on the back), plus rangers, vagabonds, and madams. Look for a great floor-length, herringbone duster lined in turquoise, a purple lace coat and fun partywear in hot pink and acid green. Kelly Osbourne appeared as bandit, Chaplin impersonator and wicked widow in a frilly black strapless. And Betsey, in inmate-striped long johns, did her signature cartwheel.

- Joseph V. Amodio

ETC.

Tupperware party

"Project Runway" season six winner Irina Shabayeva showed her first collection at Stage 37 Saturday. The show, inspired by flight, was sponsored by Tupperware, and Shabayeva worked plastic Tupperware engineered products into some of the garments. Way to seal the deal!

- Anne Bratskeir

Pretty mummies

Rachel Roy enlivened what she called a "desert-tomb palette" with figure-hugging dresses (the last beaded gown was two sheer layers of lace dotted with pearls) and abstract prints (one dress with wide folded ribbons for straps was in a "wall" print, like aged marble).

- Joseph V. Amodio

Fun wake-up call

HSN set up an early breakfast at the Viceroy Café to show some of its latest wares (prices, natch, stark contrast to runway looks) including loads of bling from the boys at Badgley Mischka, Carlos Falchi scarves and bags, and the cutest plaid version of the Flip designed by Jeffrey Banks.

- Anne Bratskeir