Following locals to National Harbor

National Harbor, the chain-store megalopolis on the shores of the Potomac River near Washington, D.C., has hotels the size of small Texas towns. There's a pet boutique, a high-end jewelry shop and a Peeps store, but no grocery store. And there are more parking spaces than residents of the center's home, Oxon Hill, Md.

But only a few years after National Harbor's shops and restaurants began to open in 2008, it is locals who stroll the waterfront sidewalks with their stroller-bound babies, and locals who take the water taxi from Alexandria to dinners at Ketchup and Bond 45. Last fall, 145,000 people visited National Harbor just to see Cirque du Soleil.

From spring through fall, it's also festival central: The harbor will host a food and wine festival next weekend, then an homage to Led Zeppelin; after that comes a beer and barbecue bash and a multiday Beatles festival.

If you're interested to see what the harbor in Oxon Hill, Md., is all about, here are the spots that should make your itinerary.

McLoone's Pier House

141 National Plaza,

301-839-0815

mcloonespierhousenh.com

Some restaurants may have a view of the river, but no other restaurant is as close to bobbing boats as McLoone's Pier House. Sit at one of the marble-topped tables and watch the sun set over sails and masts, and you'll understand why this is the best happy-hour spot at National Harbor. It doesn't hurt that the prices are almost as good as the setting. Musicians -- usually solo and acoustic -- perform Monday through Saturday, beginning at 7 p.m.

Elevation Burger

108 Waterfront St.,

301-749-4014

nationalharbor.elevationburger .com

How does Elevation Burger stand out among upscale hamburger joints? It serves only grass-fed beef burgers, fries crisped in olive oil, shakes in flavors such as guava and not one but two kinds of veggie burgers. Many items on the menu -- including the cheeseburgers, veggie burgers and the shakes (which are easily big enough for two) -- ring up at less than $4.

Art Whino

122 Waterfront St.,

301-567-8210

artwhino.com

There's so much graffiti in Art Whino, it's surprising that a neighborhood association hasn't mounted a campaign to paint it over. It's a curious pairing -- National Harbor and a gallery that heralds artists inspired by comics, skateboarding and graffiti culture. It sells both art marked at thousands of dollars and priced-to-move T-shirts and objets, including intricate Japanese-inspired toys that are displayed prominently in the windows to catch the eye of impulse buyers on their way to the Peeps store. Parties and public events, which frequently feature DJs and artists painting, have become a big part of the business model, too.

Bobby McKey's

172 Fleet St., 301-567-1488

bobbymckeys.com

At this National Harbor bar, "dueling" pianists won't just play Neil Diamond, they'll also perform piano versions of Queen's "We Will Rock You," Bon Jovi's "Livin' on a Prayer" or the Beastie Boys' "Girls." By 9:30 on a Friday or Saturday night, every seat in the two-story bar is taken. (It's an excellent idea to reserve seats for $15 per person.)

Cadillac Ranch

186 Fleet St., 301-839-1100

cadillacranchgroup.com

This is a national chain whose slogan might well be "The Place With the Mechanical Bull." The decor is cheesy -- fake Western, with old guitars and license plates on the wall -- and the food is adequate. It gets very, very loud thanks to the cheering bull riders and weekend DJs spinning a mix of country and rock. But if you want to live out your "Urban Cowboy" fantasy, Cadillac Ranch is for you. After a spicy margarita or two, you might not even mind the $3 charge for each ride.

The Gaylord National

201 Waterfront St.,

301-965-4000

gaylordhotels.com

It's impossible not to notice the $870 million Gaylord hotel, a glass behemoth. With 2,000 rooms, a serene English-style garden and a complex of restaurants and bars, including an over-the-top "ultra-lounge" known as Pose, it is both a destination and a novelty. Want to get a peek? Just walk in and poke around. For its intimidating size, it's surprisingly open to the curious.

UPCOMING EVENTS

May 27-29 ZepFest ($174- $325, zepfest2011.com).

June 3-Aug. 27 (Fridays and Saturdays): Sounds of the Summer concerts. Free.

June 10-Sept. 30 (Fridays and Sundays): Movies on the Potomac. Free.

June 17-18 Beer, Bourbon & BBQ Festival ($25-$85,

beerandbourbon.com/national -harbor).

Aug. 20 Chesapeake Crab & Beer Festival ($35-$75,

mdcrabfest.com).

Sept. 1-5 Abbey Road on the River ($35-$350, abbeyroadon theriver.com).