For Oscar night: Fellini, Italian wines

In the movie "Nine," Fergie nibbles the scenery and belts out "Be Italian" as if ignited by vino.

Rivers of terrific Italian wine flow now, many on sale. Have one of these beauties. And during Sunday's Academy Awards, toast Federico Fellini, whose "8 1/2" inspired "Nine" and generations of moviegoers.

Start with the 2009 Bollini Pinot Grigio ($15), a light white to go with fried calamari; and the 2009 Masi Masianco ($16), which adds verduzzo to the pinot, with antipasti. Then, cue "I Vitelloni."

Masi's reds include the versatile, fruity, drink-now 2007 Masi Campofiorin ($19). Look for the elegant, concentrated 2008 Marchesi de' Frescobaldi Tenuta di Castiglioni ($25), mostly cabernet sauvignon, as well as the plummy, spicy 2009 Renato Ratti Barbera D'Alba Torriglione ($18). Unspool "Nights of Cabiria."

Ceretto presents the 2008 Monsordo Langhe Rosso ($36), which delivers ripe fruit and a deep garnet hue, in a blend of merlot, syrah and cabernet sauvignon. DVD? "Amarcord."

Vibrant and delicious, the 2008 Ceretto Rossana Dolcetto D'Alba ($45) uncorks ready for, of course, "La Dolce Vita." For a sweet, lingering pleasure, pour the 2009 Ceretto I Vignaioli Santo Stefano Moscato D'Asti ($23). Maybe with "Ginger and Fred."

If you're getting serious, with "8 1/2" onscreen, it's time for the vivid, ever-fresh 2005 Ceretto Barolo Zonchera ($51) and the long-lived, complex 2006 Ceretto Bernardot Barbaresco ($81).

And for a powerful, poetic finale, the deep, intense 2006 Allegrini Amarone ($90) is a stirring choice. Once more, view "La Strada."

Cin cin, maestro.