Kohlrabi

In addition to being one of medieval Europe's busiest rulers, Charlemagne was a great promoter of obscure vegetables. Sometime between regulating weights and measures and legislating against serfdom, the Germanic emperor decreed that kohlrabi should be grown in every part of his domain. Where is Charlemagne when you need him?

While his favorite brassica is still popular in Germany (that country produces 40,000 tons of kohlrabi and also imports it from neighboring countries to satisfy demand), it has largely fallen out of favor in other parts of Europe and never caught on at all in the United States. That's why you may not recognize the knobby, pale-green bulbs with the protruding stems when you see them in the produce aisle, and you may not know that they are related to cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower.

I'm no Charlemagne, but I say it's time to get to know kohlrabi. If you are like me, you are growing weary of the regular rotation of vegetables available at the market in January. Cooking kohlrabi is a way to get out of the midwinter vegetable rut. Its mild flavor (less peppery than cabbage but with a similar sweetness) is pleasing to most palates, and it plays well with other ingredients. Kohlrabi is as at home when stuffed with ground beef, onions and caraway seeds as it is in an Indian curry. You can steam kohlrabi, fry it, roast it or chop it up and serve it raw in salads.

Getting ready to cook kohlrabi is easy. Wash the bulbs right before cooking. Small bulbs don't have to be peeled. Larger ones will have a tough outer skin that you can remove with a sharp paring knife. Next, use your imagination. Here are a few ideas to get you started:

This hearty but not heavy, winter salad makes an outstanding luncheon dish or light supper. If your grocer isn't stocking kohlrabi (you may have to ask for it), you can use young turnips, celery root or even broccoli stems in its place. Serve over salad greens, with dark rye bread and a wedge of Gouda or Emmentaler cheese.