Kyma in Roslyn is Greek food getaway

Kyma

1446 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn

516-621-3700, kyma-roslyn.com

Yes, you're dreaming about a Greek island, where the summer lasts long and the simplest seafood is perfect.

Wake up and go to Roslyn.

It always seems like the season of sun and beaches at Kyma. This handsome restaurant, dressed in subtle, neutral hues rather than brilliant blue and blinding white, is your first-class, local cruise to the Aegean. And there are several tables outside for a very summery, alfresco experience.

Sip a crisp white wine and nibble on fried zucchini and eggplant chips with yogurt sauce. Enjoy vibrant taramasalata, the fish-roe spread, on the house's very good bread. Order an appetizer of the delicious grilled octopus finished with onion and capers.

Kyma specializes in grilled whole fish. A special of fagri, a Mediterranean fish akin to pink snapper or red porgy, is ideal: delicately charred outside, snowy within. Its competition comes from the mild, very satisfying black sea bass; and the succulent, flavorful royal dorado.

The kitchen also excels with a lush moussaka, with ground meat, eggplant and potatoes under an airy béchamel sauce; and the tender, grilled Black Angus sirloin. On the side: lemon potatoes, fine fries, broccoli rabe with feta.

Rich ekmek custard with shredded wheat pastry; and karidopita, the spiced walnut cake, are delightful desserts. But remember the calendar. Pick the lush, refreshing Greek yogurt with honey and fruit, and imagine a moment on Santorini or Samos. $$$-$$$$