Many kosher wines to enjoy

Each year, the Jewish High Holy Days bring renewed interest in kosher wines, including those of Israel. Winemaking in Israel began to improve dramatically in the 1980s. Today, there are many wines to celebrate.

Consider the 2008 Yarden Syrah ($25). The big, earthy red from the Golan Heights has berry notes and considerable style. It's a wine with a spine, well-structured, with plenty of affinities with food. The syrah works with grilled red meat, beef stew, heartier chicken dishes. No problem standing up to strong seasoning.

The 2008 Golan Heights Cabernet Sauvignon ($15) also offers a hint of berries, as well as a trace of pepper. The Yarden wine similarly is a partner for red meat. But it's lighter and more versatile, at ease with pot roast and prime rib, hamburger and steak.

From Upper Galilee, the 2008 Galil Mountain Winery Viognier ($18) delivers smooth, medium-bodied and aromatic white. You'll find floral and herbal qualities, as well as apricot. The wine works as a sipper, with light finfish and chicken dishes, and with spicy Asian food.

Wine and food

Flavorful recipes-by-the-season define "The Winemaker Cooks" (Chronicle, $35), by Christine Hanna, president of Hanna Winery & Vineyards in Sonoma County. She writes an accessible, appetizing, illustrated look at wine-country fare. Raise a glass - and a fork.

Long Island's wine of the week

Upfront red fruit and a trace of pepperiness show in the balanced, ripe 2008 Bedell Cellars Cabernet Franc ($30). You can enjoy it now, but expect the versatile, first-rate red to mature for the next few years. The excellent wine is a match for pasta with tomato-based sauces, spicy ones included; barbecued chicken; grilled salmon or tuna; and grilled vegetables.