Postmodern sushi: Raw with a flair

Uncooked fish on ovals of vinegared rice used to define sushi. But now, you're just as likely to be attracted to "signature" rolls. Here are three restaurants that make them with flair.

KASHI SUSHI & STEAKHOUSE, Rockville Centre

Kashi, which also has a branch in Huntington, is a jazzy addition to mondo sushi. Major rolls include twister, with white-tuna tempura and spicy lobster; Sunset Blvd., with tuna, salmon, yellowtail and avocado in a seaweed wrap; and takayama, starring spicy tuna.

NISEN SUSHI, Woodbury

Glittery and sharp, Nisen sushi is a tribute to curves and swirls. Scottish goat brings in seared-ginger scallion, goat cheese, jalapeño salsa and a balsamic vinegar-mirin glaze; fisherman wharf is lobster, whitefish, jumbo sweet shrimp, pine nut, mango and beer dressing.

AJI 53, Bay Shore

The showtime signature rolls here include dancing dragon, with eel, avocado and tobiko roe around shrimp tempura; magic, a spicy tuna number with salmon, yellowtail, eel, avocado, tobiko, "crunch," and eel sauce.