The Best of Neil's Watchdog

One of the primary points of spending billions of dollars to erect new stadiums is, of course, the ability to prepare and sell more interesting and expensive food in ever larger, more comfortable venues.

New Meadowlands Stadium is no exception, so as a public service in advance of its first football game Monday night, I recently attended a taste testing there.

I spoke to executive chef Eric Borgia after noshing on one of his prized offerings: Nonna Fusco's meatball sub, a tribute to his maternal grandmother's dish.

It was just right, something my own grandmother might have made, if she were Italian instead of a Polish Jew, that is, and thus open to including pork and cheese.

Borgia admitted to fiddling with Nonna's ratios of beef, veal, pork and other elements in order to avoid the balls breaking apart on game days.

"She never had to make them for 80,000 people," he said.

Borgia said the overall goal is to have the food "smell and taste like [a fan's house] smells on an NFL Sunday."

In addition to the meatballs, my favorites from the foods available throughout the stadium included a nicely balanced red bean chili that didn't skimp on beans. My least favorites were the weird, overly lean pastrami and way-too-salty pulled pork.

The highlight of the menu available only in suites and clubs was the Buffalo mac and cheese, a rich, tasty mishmash, including three types of cheese, roasted chicken, hot sauce and calories.

The prices of all this are what you would expect: the customary sports stadium petit larceny.

"But out of all the food we have prepared for you here today," Borgia said, "the bottom line is we're going to get judged on our hot dogs."

I had one from the Nathan's cart.

Perfect!