The secret to pasta with clam sauce

What's the secret to pasta with clam sauce?

Clamminess. The problem with most renditions of this classic dish is that the sauce doesn't evince enough clam flavor. The liquid exuded from clams is too thin to cling to the pasta, and so some cooks "enrich" it with tomato sauce or white sauce or some other distinctly non-clammy medium.

The truth is that it's easier to make a good pasta with clam sauce at home than it is to find it in a restaurant. Clams are widely available and inexpensive (usually between $5 and $6 a dozen). Over the last few weeks, I've been making a lot of pasta with clams and have come up with five rules for success:

* Use plenty of clams.

* Don't overcook the clams.

* Reduce the clam liquid.

* Use thin pasta.

* Finish cooking the pasta in the clam liquid.

SPAGHETTI WITH CLAM SAUCE

To make the sauce, you'll need a wide skillet or Dutch oven that measures 12 to 14 inches across and has a tight-fitting lid. (If there's no lid, you can use heavy-duty aluminum foil.) I usually make this dish with littleneck clams, but if you are lucky enough to find manila clams, which are even smaller, use 3 to 4 dozen.

2 dozen littleneck clams

About 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 to 5 cloves garlic, peeled and halved (see note)

Red pepper flakes

1/2 cup chopped parsley

3/4 cup dry white wine or Vermouth

1 plum tomato, chopped (optional)

1 pound thin spaghetti or linguine

1. Scrub the clams. Place in a large bowl or pot and cover by at least 4 inches of water. Leave them for about 20 minutes to purge themselves of sand. Take clams out of water, rinsing each one and setting aside. Set a large pot of well-salted water to boil.

2. Film the bottom of a wide skillet or Dutch oven with olive oil and add garlic, a pinch of pepper flakes and 2 tablespoons parsley. Heat over medium until the garlic turns golden, then pour in the wine and optional tomato, turn up heat and bring liquid to a boil over medium-high. Place clams in the pan and cover tightly. After 3 minutes, start checking on the clams. As each one opens, lift it out, allowing any liquid to stay in the pan. Remove clams from shells if desired, saving any liquid and adding back to pan.

3. When all clams have been removed, turn heat to high and reduce liquid slightly. Meanwhile, add spaghetti to boiling water and cook until a few minutes short of al dente. Using tongs, transfer spaghetti to clam liquid and, over high heat, toss pasta in liquid until it is fully done. If you need more liquid, add some of the pasta-cooking water. Add the clams at the very end to heat them through. Off the heat, toss with the rest of the parsley and serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Note: I prefer to take out the garlic before serving. If you like a very garlicky sauce, mince the garlic instead of halving the cloves.