Zeppoles, sausages-and-peppers on LI

The Feast of San Gennaro starts on Mulberry Street in Little Italy, to the joy of zeppole lovers and anyone who thinks sausage-and-peppers fill two major food groups. Expect a crowd. To have a taste of Italian-American feast fare, you also can visit these Long Island specialists.

Carlo's Pizza makes zeppole every day. You'll also find calzones filled with cheese, ham or pepperoni. Of course, there's plenty of pizza, too, among them Sicilian, Margherita, white and "the works." Baked pastas abound.

Carlo's Pizza, 480-23 Patchogue-Holbrook Rd., Holbrook; 631-589-7777. carlospizzaoven.com

Dough Boys Pizza Cafe comes through with made-to-order zeppole. Call in advance. They can be the appetizer or the dessert, so you can have a baked pasta or a pizza in between. Pizza choices include Sicilian, upside-down Sicilian with sauce on top, Neapolitan, whole wheat. There's also the sausage-and-peppers dinner, just in case.

Dough Boys Pizza Cafe, 1137 Deer Park Ave., North Babylon; 631-667-8182.

D'Angelo's Sausage & Pepper House is an offspring of the Queens street-food wagon. Sausage-and-peppers, naturally, are key ingredients and, together, the specialty. Have the hot sausage. Dissenters can debate while munching the Cubano, Philly cheesesteak or deep-fried hot dog with peppers and onions. No zeppoles.

D'Angelo's Sausage & Pepper House, 918 E. Jericho Tpke., Huntington Station; 631-424-0653.

And at Fanatico, you can dive into sausage-and-peppers as a main dish or a hero. No zeppoles. But Fanatico goes well beyond, with first-class pizzas and pastas; a savory meatball-ricotta-roasted pepper appetizer; calzones; fine salads and soups; and Parmigianas to spare. It's an offspring of ever-popular Emilio's in Commack.

Fanatico, 336 N. Broadway, Jericho; 516-932-5080.