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Long Island college professor analyzes what life would be like on Mars mission

St Joseph’s College biology professor Tetyana Delaney is preparing for life on Mars. 

Delaney was selected for a NASA research project to gauge what would be the physical and mental toll on astronauts during a mission to Mars.

NASA selected Delaney, 51, of Oyster Bay for the SIRIUS 21 mission, or Scientific International Research in Unique Terrestrial Station in Moscow. She was born in Ukraine and is a professor of natural sciences with a doctorate in molecular biology and biotechnology. The mission is a joint venture with NASA and Russia’s Institute for Biomedical Problems.

Delaney spent two months in Moscow joining the NASA crew, which was split into two teams — the primary crew that will be isolated for eight months in a space module and Delaney’s crew, which worked with the primary team as a backup crew before the pod was sealed

Her training included simulations for driving the Mars Rover, docking the International Space Station and conducting experiments in limited isolation and confined spaces. She returned to Long Island last month as the remaining primary crew began their eight-month mission.

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"Many people don’t know what astronauts actually do. What is the purpose for pilots and engineers, what is their job and end goal?" Delaney said. "It’s not just flying to space and orbiting around the earth. They have to do the research themselves with biology and physics and be capable to pick up and perform it."

NASA officials believe a manned mission to Mars is no longer a tale of science fiction and expect to hopefully complete a mission in the next few decades, said William Brandon Vessey, element scientist for flight analogs with NASA’s research operations and integration at the Johnson Space Center in Houston.

But NASA is first aimed at sending astronauts back to the moon through its Artemis mission to explore the lunar surface and use that research to get to Mars.

"It’s part of NASA’s plans going forward," Vessey said. "The longer-term pathway to send humans to Mars is something the human research program is heavily focused on and enabling us to do those missions safely in our lifetime. It’s just a matter of time before we do those missions. We know those missions are happening in the relatively near future and we need to be ready for them."

Delaney was selected based on her scientific experience and research background as well as her fluency in the Russian language, Vessey said. Most astronauts range in age from about 30 to 50 to measure how space travel affects different groups of people.

"For these missions, we select people as astronaut-like as possible, in good physical health and more importantly the studies we’re doing and background and psychology and highly educated with professional experience," Vessey said. "In Dr. Delaney’s case, she fit the bill for astronaut-like characteristics and a strong STEM background."

Delaney applied for the program last year before it was delayed by the COVID-19 pandemic. She said she started primary training in mid-August with the 12-member crew in Moscow.

The crew was simulating the eight to nine-month mission it would take to travel to Mars as well as 70 different experiments being conducted onboard the space module such as recording self-biometrics.

While she wasn’t in isolation, she went through the same basic training and quarantine to live in the test facility. NASA didn’t simulate microgravity, but simulated the types of experiments for a real mission.

The former chair of biology at St. Joseph’s College, biology professor Frank Antonawich, said Delaney’s work on immunology was a perfect fit for a Mars mission. She has been studying lipids using technology in the new mRNA COVID-19 vaccines to test long-term effects in the body while working with microbes in small spaces.

"Things in space have to be small scale and everything from medicines to food have applications in nanotechnology and her specialty is accumulation and toxicity and testing," Antonawich said. "When they’re up there, they’re on their own. You have to know how to do it. The data when they get back that is used for this can contribute to advancements in medications and bioavailability."

Delaney also continued to teach her classes eight time zones away using Zoom sessions with her students. Now that she has returned to Long Island, she remains in touch with the isolated team in Moscow.

She said she is not sure if she will ever be a real astronaut, but is encouraged by commercial space flight and space travel by 90-year-old William Shatner.

"I grew up in the Soviet Union, but the space program was so far a dream and unreachable," Delaney said "To be in the middle and taking advantage of speaking both languages is an unforgettable experience. Becoming an astronaut is maybe something I can do someday." 

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Offseason Shelter Island: Serene getaway with destination dining

Poised between the tines of the North and South Forks, Shelter Island is almost as far as you can go and still be within the 631 area code. In the winter, it feels even more remote as summer residents decamp, leaving full-timers the run of its wind-swept solitude. And if wind-swept solitude is your thing, you can’t do better. Not that you can’t be well looked after: One proper hotel (The Ram’s Head Inn) and one B&B (House on Chase Creek) plan to stay open, along with dozens of Airbnbs — the upside is that rates are a fraction of what they are during the high season. Mashomack and other nature preserves offer miles of hiking trails, and, with fewer cars than usual, the roads are perfect for cold-weather cycling.

DESTINATION DINING

Even in the summer, Shelter Island’s restaurant scene is modest compared to those in Greenport and Sag Harbor, the two closest mainland villages. Winter means hibernation for many popular venues, among them Sunset Beach, Marie Eiffel Market, Opties and Dinghies, the newly restored Pridwin Hotel and The Chequit inn. But the island’s two best restaurants, Vine Street Café and Léon 1909 plan to stay open, albeit with limited hours.

Seven days a week, 12 months a year, though, you can count on The Islander. That’s where you’ll find full-time residents Alix Shearer and Kiki Boucher enjoying omelets and salads most Thursdays at lunchtime after teaching their French conversation class at the library. Set back from the road in a little clearing in the woods, it’s the closest thing Shelter Island has to a diner.

Both women said they preferred the island’s quiet winters to its frantic summers but allowed that the cold-weather dining options are limited. "We understand that it’s a tough economic model," Shearer said, "but we really appreciate the places that stay open during the winter." Their student Sandra Saiegh (who travels from East Marion to get her Français on) noted that chef-owned places tend to be more dependable. Otherwise, she explained, "It’s a game of musical chairs after every season: Are they going to stay open after Labor Day? Who’s the new chef?"

That’s not an issue at The Islander. Manuel Lopez has been manning the grill here for more than two decades. He came aboard when the place was called Pat and Steve’s, owned by founders Pat and Steve Lenox, and stayed through its transition to new owners and a new name. Since 2024, he and his business partner, Hugo Montoya, have been running it.

Lopez is still at the grill, supervising breakfast favorites such as the West Coast Benedict (with avocado and tomato filling in for Canadian bacon) as well as burgers, sandwiches and wraps for lunch, and, after 5 p.m., pot roast or meatloaf, cod or shrimp tacos, crab cakes, fish and chips, cheese tortellini and more. If you’ve got children in tow, bring them here. Not only is there a kids’ menu but also coloring books, Uno and Jenga.

He didn’t want to fiddle with the menu too much, but Lopez has managed to honor his native Guatemala with a take-out only menu he calls La Pequeña Isla. Look for tacos made with homemade tortillas, nachos, wings and two tributes to Guatemala’s hot dog culture: the mixta (hot dog in tortilla) and the shuco (on a bun).

Boucher quipped that The Islander is "the only place to eat lunch inside during the winter," but, reminded of Commander Cody’s, less than a mile away, was quick to add, "I always forget about it — it’s so out of the way!" This caused the group to crack up since "out of the way" describes every venue they frequent — and the island on which they live.

Cut her some slack, though, since Commander Cody’s is the rare Shelter Island eatery that is tucked into a residential street off the main drag, Route 114 (a.k.a. Ferry Road). And it’s rare for many other reasons: Founded by Jim Hayward in 1993 (and named for his dog, Cody), the agreeably ramshackle establishment serves as a counter-serve restaurant, fry shop, fish store, barbecue pit and caterer.

Hayward, 90, came to Long Island to fish in the ’50s, but he carried with him the culinary traditions of his native South Carolina. Nowhere is this more evident than in his supernal fried chicken. While Hayward keeps an eagle eye on the operation, it’s now run by Aiden Poleshuk, who grew up on Shelter Island and said, "I feel like I have worked in every restaurant here."

Poleshuk revealed that the chicken gets seasoned overnight with paprika, cayenne, oregano, black pepper, salt and sugar (amid other, undisclosed, ingredients) before being dredged in unseasoned flour and fried outside in two ancient skillets. That the chicken is not completely submerged in the oil — as it would be in a deep fryer — is critical, he said. Each bird is cut into 10 pieces and while there is more demand for dark meat, "There’s nothing we can do. We only buy whole chickens and cut them up here." Whether you dine in or take out, your crisp, juicy russet morsels will be tucked neatly into a carton, thoughtfully topped with a length of paper towel and accompanied by a cup of Frank’s RedHot sauce.

A few paces away from the skillet station is a smokehouse for ribs and pulled pork. In the kitchen itself, the deep fryer gets plenty of business handling the fresh fish that Cody’s also sells retail. Shrimp are butterflied for maximum surface area and there are local oysters, flounder and scallops, plus crab cakes and broiled salmon.

Poleshuk treasures the offseason, when Cody’s can provide an "affordable option to locals and, especially, local tradesmen." He has a philosophical approach to the feast-or-famine business cycle. "During the busy season, the positive is that rush you get when you’re working and there’s no time to think." The negative? "The same things."

OFFSEASON APPEAL

When the locals want to celebrate big, they head for Vine Street Café. Married chefs Lisa Murphy-Harwood (sweet) and Terry Harwood (savory) moved here in 1999, opened this casually elegant restaurant in 2003 and have been refining and expanding ever since. The original dining room now comprises three distinct dining areas and a hopping bar. With lots of weathered wood, vintage tiles and plastered walls, it’s polished and cozy in equal measure.

In 2009, the building’s foundation needed shoring up and the Harwoods took the opportunity to install a market around back. That’s where you’ll find a selection of homemade pasta sauces (made from the Harwoods’ own tomatoes) along with their own hot and barbecue sauces, chutney and artisanal breads plus a well-curated assortment of farmstead cheeses, cultured butter, tinned fish, snacks and treats. (File this away if you plan to rent a house here.)

Murphy-Harwood describes their cooking style as American bistro. "We are classically trained but not afraid to update the classics. We’re always going for something clean and unfussy."

"Classic" means they make Bordelaise and au poivre sauces for the steaks that come with hand-cut fries; they pan-roast lobster bodies to make the stock for their lobster bouillabaisse. "Updated" describes the fried calamari that’s served with frisée and pea shoots; the duck confit that stars in a bowl with jasmine rice, spicy broccoli rabe and a seasonal chutney; the zoodles you can have with your classic Bolognese ragù.

Even in winter, Friday and Saturday nights often bring a Hamptons crowd, said Murphy-Harwood. "It’s mostly locals on Sunday, Monday and Thursday." They have good reason to come for the plats du jour: Sunday is a three-course prix-fixe menu for $44; Monday is that VSC lobster bouillabaisse ($56) and Thursday is a popular rigatoni alla vodka with chicken and the same sauce available for purchase at the market.

Staying open year-round is a foundational principle for the owners of Vine Street. "Do we make money in the offseason? No," said Murphy-Harwood. "But we need to be open to give our people the hours year-round. If we closed every fall, it would be ‘thanks for working 300 hours a week, see you next year.’ And if you keep starting and stopping, you’re not growing and learning."

If there’s one spot on the island that caters to every segment of society, it’s Maria’s Kitchen. Opened 14 years ago by Maria Serano, it’s a mashup of full-service deli, authentic taqueria, Mexican grocery and wellness boutique. Where else could you find packets of keto collagen flakes, sun-dried goji berries and reishi mushroom powder sharing the shelf with Mexican candy, Peruvian pepper paste and a "mofongo party mix" consisting of chicharrón, plantain, yuca?

WHILE YOU'RE THERE

If you’re dragging (or need a burst of energy before entering Black Cat Books, across the road, or Marika’s Eclectic Boutique or the Shelter Island History Museum, less than five minutes away), Maria’s supplies 20 freshly pressed juice concoctions and 14 smoothies. But the main event is a selection of the best tacos on Long Island, anchored by homemade tortillas and filled with everything from chicken or pork to goat, oreja (pig’s ear) and alambre, a savory mix of shaved beef, chorizo, onions and peppers. Maria’s brother, manager Narciso Serrano, said a favorite order among his Mexican customers was the Taco Placero, fully loaded with meat, tortillas, rice, potatoes, grilled onion, jalapeños, avocado and a hard-boiled egg. There are also burritos, quesadillas, chimichangas, tortas, grill platters, wraps, burgers and more.

Maria’s has a few tables outside but, in cold weather, it’s takeout only. Unless, that is, you can snag a table at neighboring Shelter Island Craft Brewery, which, said owner Steve Pisacano, he is hoping to keep open most winter weekends. If he does, it’s a great place to quaff away the afternoon, sampling the wares — there are always an IPA and pilsner on tap, plus seasonal offerings. And you might chase your tacos with some local oysters. How local? Peeko oysters, farmed in the Peconic Bay, operates an "oyster barn" right across the street. (If you know how to shuck, consider picking up a bag for later use.)

As you head north on 114 from Maria’s you’ll pass the Shelter Island IGA and, if you ever decide to rent a house instead of a room, it’s going to be your best friend. It may look a little shabby but it stocks treasures from all over the world: grass-fed beef from New Zealand; Ramune soft drinks from Japan; seafood from Braun in Cutchogue; D’Artagnan chickens, Ronnybrook milk and Bread Alone sourdough from the Hudson Valley; Bianca Napoli tomatoes from California; frozen Indian entrées and pizzas from Table 87 in Brooklyn; and Indian ghee, Greek olive oil and pretty-darn good-looking produce.

Across the street from the IGA is White Oak Farm and Gardens, a leading landscape design and garden center. The retail shop is closed for the winter, but the property also houses a charming country store operated by Stars Café, whose "mother ship" is three minutes up the road in the Shelter Island Heights Historic District.

Lydia Martinez Majdišová and Pepe Martinez took over Stars in 2005. Open every day except Christmas, it’s the community hangout and coffee epicenter. Specially roasted for Stars by Tend in Shirley, it comes pulled and dripped. There are extensive breakfast and lunch menus and house-baked cookies, coffee cake and muffins (one standout: the not-too-sweet corn).

"The Heights" functions as the island’s downtown. Along with Stars Café, you’ll find the Italian restaurant Isola, Bliss’ Department Store (handy if you need a sweatshirt or sunglasses or a Scrabble board or a strainer), Shelter Island Hardware and a number of boutiques that will probably be closed.

Looming over everything is The Chequit, which got its start in 1872 as part of The Shelter Island Grove and Camp Meeting Association of the Methodist Episcopal Church, a religious camp that evolved into a summer community. It became an inn in 1909 and, after a few changes of ownership, was purchased in 2020 for more than $3 million by the North Fork’s mega-landowner, Stefan Soloviev. His ex-wife, Stacey Soloviev, restored and reopened it the following year, along with its restaurant, cafe and tavern. All those ventures closed last fall, amid hopes they would reopen in the spring. She also bought the century-old Shelter Island Pharmacy around the corner. The shop, with its vintage lunch counter, remains open (for now) even as it ceased filling prescriptions in October.

A RECENT NEWCOMER

Another recent local investment seems to be paying off more handsomely. Léon 1909 opened in 2022 and quickly became one of the hottest spots on the East End. All traces of the building’s former tenant, Capital One bank, were expunged in favor of a dream of a modern farmhouse: The rustic-chic dining room is crowned by a vaulted, timbered ceiling that almost rivals the restaurant’s dominant feature, an enormous hearth used to roast and grill most of the meats and vegetables.

Owners Valerie Mnuchin and her late father, Robert, have been well-served by general manager Chris Clark, his wife, beverage manager Gillian Georges, and executive chef Armond Joseph, whose fealty to local produce means the menu changes frequently.

Most of the year, however, you can start your meal with a crudo of Montauk "royal red" shrimp, and there is always a small flock of roast chickens hanging near the hearth. Make sure you order one — it’s impossibly smoky and juicy, accompanied by seasonal vegetables and a bracing salsa verde. Also from the hearth: ember-roasted fennel, dry-aged steaks, a fire-roasted burger, a local fish.

Working with live fire, Joseph said, makes Leon’s "the hardest kitchen I’ve ever worked in." With no knobs or dials, cooking times are determined by how close to the coals the food is. (He tries to use white oak — exclusively from Shelter Island — which burns clean and "builds coals quickly.")

He appreciates that Hamptonites keep the place busy seven days a week from Memorial Day through Columbus Day but believes that Léon really comes into its own during the offseason. "A snowy night on Shelter Island, you walk in here and see this fire? It may be a summer place, but it’s built like a winter restaurant."

Iron-on embroidered patch trend heats up on Long Island

Fashion statements with a DIY twist are really heating up.

Iron-on embroidered patches from local boutiques, big-box stores like Target and Hobby Lobby, and online shops are turning everyday items into one-of-a-kind pieces.

"Personalization is a big trend, and this is part of that," says Joseph DeBello, who carries a wide array of patches at the Hitch boutique in Babylon. "They’re a great way to express yourself."

In his shop’s "patch bar," there’s a veritable A to Z (angels to zodiac signs) of iron-on patches displayed alongside hats, totes and makeup bags that can be transformed with them. "Evil eye patches are super popular," DeBello says. "I can’t keep them in the store."

For Trish Evangelista, 37, a frequent customer at the store who runs CrossFit Babylon, iron-on appliqués have become a go-to gift for family and friends. That includes her 5-year-old son, Jayden, and as well as her nieces and nephews, age 6 to 16.

"I’ll bring the kids in and they’ll pick out patches and hats," Evangelista says. "Patches are a great way to match style with personality. People want to be themselves."

Kristin Ceto, 36, a former elementary school teacher and stay-at-home mom in Dix Hills, concurs. For her son Lincoln’s fifth birthday party a year ago, DeBello attended and made it patch-perfect. He set up an activity station where kids picked out iron-on patches — mermaids, trucks, and dinosaurs, among them — to put on hats Ceto had bought in advance.

"I wanted our party favors to be different and memorable," Ceto says. "It was really fun for everyone. Lincoln still wears his hat. Kids come over for a play date and they’re still wearing their hats."

Just like those party favors that were a lasting hit, customization is an enduring trend. People consistently seek to trumpet their true colors and individuality. Iron-on embroidered patches are also inexpensive and strike a nostalgic chord to boot. Since the hippie-happy 1970s, iron-on appliqués — peace signs, smiley faces, flower power — have turned denim jackets, jeans, and caps into personal billboards. Three months ago, Hitch filled an order for 60 daisy-patch hats for a peaceful protest.

National appeal

At Target, in stores and online, iron-on patches come in all sorts of styles — letters, rainbows, cherries, animals, stars, ice cream cones, and more. "Target continues to lean into personalization," says the retailer’s spokesperson, adding that "iron-on patches fit naturally into the experience."

During the fall back-to-school season, Target featured in-store customization stations in nearly 500 stores around the U.S. These stations gave customers an easy way to put their mark on backpacks, apparel, and accessories. The stations were seasonal, but iron-on patches are still in Target stores, per the spokesperson.

Hobby Lobby is another major retailer that carries patches. Scan their website, and you’ll see that embroidered iron-ons run the gamut — flags, ladybugs, princesses, and ones that read "good vibes," "be kind & stay weird."

Patches with a Long Island twist

Patches can also speak to the power of place. At The East End Shirt Company, a clothing and accessory store in Port Jefferson, there’s a small selection of iron-on patches designed with a Long Island theme.

What fuels interest in them? "It's local pride," says Mary Joy Pipe, 62, who’s run the store for the past 18 years. "I sense that all the time when customers tell me, ‘I’m from Long Island.’"

Illustrator and designer Meagan Dowling, 31, lets her embroidered patches tell the story of where she’s from and where she’s been. She grew up in St. James and now lives in California. She launched her business, Sunthing Studio, in 2016 while on Long Island and studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City.

Dowling’s patch designs can be ironed-on or framed like tiny artworks. They’re inspired by her travels to and memories of many places including the Hamptons and Montauk. Her new Greenport patch is set to debut in February. "My aunt lives there," says Dowling. "It’s one of my favorite places to go on Long Island."

Dowling believes patches check off a number of attractive boxes. "A lot of people are looking for ways to get creative and crafty," she says. "They also love small mementos of places or memories with friends. Everybody can relate to and afford patches."

Coast Hampton, a lifestyle and wellness boutique in Southampton, carries a few iron-on appliqués including Sunthing Studio’s Hamptons patch. The shop also stocks patches with a rock music as well as a love theme. They complement trucker hats and denim jackets sold in the store.

Store owner Laraine Gordon, 59, has seen that customers of all ages — Gen-Alpha to Boomers — are drawn to the iron-on appliqués. "Young people sometimes ask, ‘What are these?’ Older people say, ‘I remember these.’ The popularity of the patches spans generations."

Who says ironing can’t be fun!

21 best things we ate on Long Island in 2025

Outrageously good pasta, serious omakase, a standout chicken Parm hero ... Newsday's food team eats nearly every meal out on Long Island all year long. Here are the dishes that left a lasting impression this year:

ERICA MARCUS:   

Spinach fettuccine with oysters and guanciale at 18 Bay, Jamesport

Back when 18 Bay was on Shelter Island and offered only a four-course tasting menu, a meal there demanded a degree of forethought and commitment that made it a very occasional splurge. In October, chef-owners Adam Kopels and Elizabeth Ronzetti reopened their restaurant in the old Dimon Estate in Jamesport and I was able to realize a long-cherished dream of sitting at the bar and enjoying nothing more than a bowl of their pasta and a glass of wine. I raised my glass of Barbera d’Alba to this tender spinach fettuccine with fat oysters, guanciale and bread crumbs and considered myself very lucky, indeed. More info: 370 Manor Lane, Jamesport, 631-809-3542, 18bayrestaurant.com

Pane rustico bread at King Umberto, Elmont

Ever since 2018, when he added his sourdough "Metro" pie (and landed on Newsday’s Best Pizza list), Giovanni Cesarano, partner-pizzaiolo at King Umberto, has broadened his efforts to encompass more of the Italian bread repertoire. Alongside Luca Cascella, a graduate of Italy’s prestigious ALMA International School of Italian Cooking near Parma, a corner of King Umberto’s vast kitchen is turning into a proper panetteria. All heros at the pizzeria are made on homemade rolls, and the restaurant's bread basket features sourdough focaccia plus a superlative pane rustico that's one of the best sourdough loaves available on Long Island. (It is sometimes available for purchase at the pizzeria). More info: 1343 Hempstead Tpke., Elmont, 516-352-8391, kingumberto.com

Rigatoni carbonara at Pastaru Pastificio, Mineola

Value-priced homemade pasta shops may be the trend of the year (see also: Pasta Joint in Huntington, Pasta Project in Farmingdale, Perfect Pasta & Gelato in Bay Shore) but Pastaru Pastificio has two aces up its sleeve: Owner Simone Pulieri and chef Emanuel Concas are both Italians who adhere to a very high native standard. They try to steer diners to tried-and-true combinations — fettuccine with Bolognese, spaghetti or rigatoni with carbonara, gnocchi with pesto — and to train them to enjoy pasta that is not drowning in sauce. Nowhere are their efforts more successful than in the rigatoni carbonara, made only with guanciale (cured pig jowl), Pecorino Romano and Parmesan, egg yolks and lots of black pepper. More info: 133 Mineola Blvd., Mineola, 646-871-0154, pastarupasta.com

Pastries at Charlie’s Bakery, Northport

One of the best things I ate this year: Everything I ate at Charlie’s Bakery, which opened in February in the Fort Salonga strip mall anchored by the IGA. Baker-owner Casey Sandler — the eponymous Charlie is his Brussels Griffon pooch — has a thing for opera cake, an Old World confection whose layers consist of coffee-soaked almond sponge, coffee buttercream, chocolate ganache and chocolate glaze. His classic version also inspired one with matcha cake and strawberry mousse, another with Earl Grey-scented cake sandwiching tiers of blueberry and lemon mousse. Citrus is a theme that runs right through meringue-squiggled lemon bars whose curd hides a thin layer of raspberry jam. More info: 10 Fort Salonga Rd., Northport, 631-684-2141, charliethebaker.com

Egg sandwich at Roto, Bay Shore

After a nearly two-year absence, Brock Ferraro and Jack Monahan are back in action with their new Roto All Day Cafe, which opened in July. At 1,600 square feet, new Roto is about 10 times bigger than old Roto and has a full bar. One thing that, mercifully, has not changed is one of Long Island’s best breakfast sandwiches. Modestly named "breakfast sandwich," it consists of a puffy disk of soufflé egg that fits neatly onto a grilled milk-bread bun along with house-made pork sausage, house-made zhug (a spicy Middle Eastern green sauce) and Cooper Sharp Cheddar. More info: 101 Fourth Ave., Bay Shore, 934-500-5580, rotoallday.com

'Embarazada' oysters at Little Creek, Greenport

It’s been a year since Little Creek Oysters opened in bigger (and temperature-controlled!) premises a few blocks from its original, windswept Greenport bait shack. It now boasts a 16-seat communal table, a 17-seat bar, an upstairs, a "hangout" room that accommodates 24 — plus a 30-seat backyard. The menu has expanded too, with hot items ranging from salt-boiled new potatoes and a French onion grilled cheese sandwich on a pressed baguette. But, at its heart, Little Creek is still an oyster bar, generally offering three or four different Peconic Bay oysters every day. But hey, why not gild the lily? I could not get enough of the "embarazada" oysters, "pregnant" with hamachi sashimi, ponzu, hot sauce and tobiko. More info: 211 Carpenter St., Greenport, littlecreekoysters.com

Dogfish amandine at Minnow at the Galley Ho, New Suffolk

I’ve been whining about the lack of local fish on Long Island menus for a few decades now, but I was (temporarily) silenced this summer when I motored out into Cutchogue Harbor to the enormous "pound trap" that Minnow at the Galley Ho maintains a few minutes (by boat) from its waterside perch. We harvested fluke, porgies and blowfish and, most of all, dogfish (aka sand shark), a fish I’d never knowingly had. All of these treasures were delivered to Minnow’s kitchen, where the fish were swiftly butchered and put to delicious use. In dogfish amandine wherein the fillets are dredged in a coating of crushed almonds and then fried to a golden crisp. When dogfish isn’t available, weakfish and blackfish benefit from the same treatment. Note: Minnow won’t reopen until next spring. More info: 650 First St., 631-734-8474, minnowrestaurant.com

MELISSA AZOFEIFA:   

Rooh’s BBQ Smoked Meat and Steakhouse

Rooh’s BBQ Smoked Meat and Steakhouse in West Hempstead is more than a delicious meal — dinner there is an experience. All your senses are in for a treat as they have daily fire shows to dazzle guests. For those wanting a luxurious option, their smoked Wagyu brisket ($44.99) or Wagyu tomahawk encrusted with edible gold leaf ($199) is a must-try. The meat is juicy, tender, smoky and falls right off the bone. Other options include the hot mezze platter ($34.99) that includes two Middle Eastern sambousek (meat-filled pastries similar to empanadas) with Turkish sausages and fried kebabs. More Info: 495 Hempstead Tpke., #499, West Hempstead, 516-280-2896, roohsbbqsmokedmeatsteakhouse.com.

MARIE ELENA MARTINEZ:

Ceviche at Urubamba Pisco Bar, Huntington

In a sea of Long Island Peruvian ceviches, this one stands out. Two versions are offered at one of Newsday’s Best New Restaurants this year, a classic ceviche ($20) and a ceviche mixto ($22). The fish is "cooked" by the acidic citrus juice — in this case, lime — in which it marinates, producing what’s known in Spanish as "leche de tigre" or tiger’s milk. Mixed with standard ingredients, including red onion, cilantro, crunchy cancha (corn nuts), sweet potatoes and toothy maize, or choclo, it has a nice kick, plus the delicate pureed sweet potato florets are an elegant touch. More info: 286 New York Ave., Huntington, 718-799-1392, urubambali.com

Chicken Milanese at Copper Beech by the Sea, Bellport

Copper Beech’s chicken Milanese ($18/half pound) is a protein-seeker's dream. The ultimate grab-and-go item, the chicken cutlet gets star treatment at Bellport’s swankiest general store. These bad boys are the stuff of legend, made with panko-breaded chicken breast, pounded just right, cooked in olive oil with Parmesan and lemon. It delivers the perfect level of crunch, umami, and ahem, nutrition for your breakfast, lunch, snack, dinner and post-workout needs. While you're waiting, check out gorgeous home accents, from serving plates to wall art to linens. More info: 133 South Country Rd., Bellport, 631-286-0202, copperbeechbythesea.com 

Bigeye tuna tarts at Okaru, Roslyn 

If you lived in Manhattan during the '90s, there’s a good chance you’ve been to BondSt, the downtown hot spot that garnered a cult following for its pillowy spicy tuna rolls, miso -glazed sea bass skewers and saketinis. Chef Marc Spitzer, a Plainview native, opened a spot in Roslyn that quickly landed on Newsday's Best New Restaurants list. While there isn’t a miss on the menu, the tuna tarts ($29), paper-thin sheets of raw tuna draped over crisp gyoza wrappers, brushed with a creamy, truffled ponzu and crowned with microgreens including shiso and cilantro, set the tone. There’s a reason they dot every table; trust the process. More info: 1401 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn, 516-621-3300, okaruroslyn.com

Chicken Parm hero at Village Hero, Syosset

The perfect hero is a thing of beauty, be it a cold Italian sub or a hot meatball Parm. The return of Village Heros in Syosset, now just across from where it all began in 1972, means that the killer chicken Parms of my youth are back. My personal Tuesday night special, picked up hot and saucy, is a fresh, soft hero stuffed with tender, breaded chicken cutlets, smothered in a tasty tomato sauce and loaded with shredded mozzarella, delivering the ultimate cheese pull. They run $11.25 for a junior size and $20.75 for a large. Also recommended with equal enthusiasm: The meatball Parm hero. More info: 575 Underhill Blvd., Syosset, 516-716-4376

Roasted cauliflower at Lola, Great Neck

With vegetables, the simplest preparations often pack the most punch. Such is true for Mediterranean mainstay Lola’s roasted cauliflower ($12), a mere five ingredients — cauliflower, blistered red peppers, lemon, tahini, scallion — deliver one of the most pleasing bites of the year. The caramelized cauliflower melts down as it roasts, then, tossed in lemon, tahini and scallion sauce, it coalesces into a fulfilling, hearty dish. It’s earthy from the tahini, balanced by the acidity of the lemon juice, and lit by the subtle fire of the red peppers. Forget hummus, scoop this into Lola’s fresh, fluffy pitas and have yourself a snack. More info: 113a Middle Neck Rd., Great Neck, 516-466-5666, restaurantlola.com

Omakase at Two Thirty Six, Syosset

At this spot, it’s the whole experience — from Japanese whiskey lounge to jewel box coursing in the discrete back omakase bar — that merits highlight. Start at the lush front bar — blue-velvet chairs, moody table lighting, clubby wood paneling — for a cocktail before slipping behind a speakeasy bookcase wall to uni served in seaweed, like a tiny taco from Hokkaido to otoro topped with gold leaf, scallops dusted with Meyer lemon zest, or, most memorably, a Jidori egg, soft and gooey, topped with a generous shaving of bottarga, and cured mullet fish roe. ($231 for multicourse tasting). More info: 236 W. Jericho Tpke., Syosset, 646-352-0051, 236syosset.com

Cinnamon roll from Duck Island Bread Co., Huntington

My daughter swooned over this massive roll with thick, creamy frosting and rich, cinnamon flavor in my quest to find Long Island's best cinnamon rolls. The perfect celebration of festive fall flavors and big as her 7-year-old head, the airy and light rolled dough sits under a snowy white, mild sugar glaze, neither too sweet nor too thick ($5). Because it’s lighter than it looks, be advised: You will be able to eat more than you think. And should, it's the holiday season, after all. More info: 631-629-4848, duckislandbreadcompany.com.

Pistachio affogato at Taglio, Massapequa Park

Taglio in Massapequa Park may be known for its Roman-style pizza — the potato rosemary stops traffic — but for me, it's their Kimbo Crema, a creamy coffee treat from Caffe Kimbo, an Italian roaster, that keeps me up at night. Gelato-like soft serve comes in espresso, Nutella and pistachio flavors, one better than the next. Want an extra espresso boost with your frozen indulgence? The nutty pistachio affogato ($8) is my breakfast and lunch on random Tuesday mornings when the mood strikes. More info: 113 Front St., Massapequa Park, 516-765-2000, taglioromanpizza.com

ANDI BERLIN:

Jerk chicken from Jerk on the Water, Freeport 

I tried nearly a dozen spots for Newsday's best jerk chicken list, and this Nautical Mile operation blew the competition out of the water. On a blistering cold day, the takeout spot still managed to warm my belly with its fiery rub that included allspice and Scotch bonnet pepper. Fresh from the grill, the chicken ($15) was incredibly juicy, and some of the crevices had extra bits of rub, which clung to the crispy char. I ate it from a steamy paper box, right there next to the canal. It was one of the most rewarding food experiences I've had on Long Island, ever. More info: 165 Woodcleft Ave., Freeport, 516-623-2612, jerkonthewater.com

Feijoada black bean stew from Brazico, Amityville 

Long Island's already fallen in love with Brazilian barbecue, but homestyle dishes like feijoada deserve more recognition — especially the one at Brazico. Served in a mini cast-iron pot, the slow-cooked black bean stew ($28) is loaded with chunky pork and sausage. Spoon some of the hearty black beans over your side of rice, then sprinkle a pinch of farofa, a toasted cassava flour that looks like powdery pork rinds and tastes of nutty grains. The dish also comes with garlicky collard greens, which are only slightly cooked so they remain snappy and bitter. An unsung masterpiece. More info: 217 Broadway, Amityville, 631-464-4323

Malai chicken from Vintage Mirchi, Hicksville 

This neighborhood spot opened around the corner from Mithaas last year, and it quickly stole the spotlight with its explosive, pummeling curries. Mirchi means chili pepper in Hindi, and the chefs don't shy away from it in Northern Indian dishes like chunky saag paneer, which had a potent masala backbone. Surprisingly, a creamy chicken curry ($14.99) was the highlight in an evening of bangers. It came to the table sizzling in a cast-iron pan, fajitas-style. Tender chicken thighs were bathed in a rich elixir so mesmerizing, it begged to be scraped from the bottom of the plate. More info: 217 Bethpage Rd., #24, Hicksville, 516-580-2601

Taro gnocchi from Plado Tasting Bar, Glen Cove

This chic, chef-driven bistro gives Italian classics an international spin. Sitting at the bar one afternoon during happy hour, I sampled the gnocchi ($20) and it made me want to order everything on the menu. Rather than potatoes, the dough balls are made with taro root, a starchy tuber more common in Asian cuisine, but totally stunning in this context. When cooked, the taro lends an ever-so-slight purplish hue, although that's obscured by a heavenly blanket of truffled cream sauce. Oyster mushrooms add a savory bounce to the dish. It was brilliant, but I'm also adding extra points for the Aperol spritz. More info: 274 Glen St., Glen Cove, 516-277-1288, pladohospitality.com

Rice flour pupusa from Pupusas City, Middle Island 

Is it possible to have a destination pupusa? The Salvadoran griddle cakes are practically everywhere, and most always amazing. But this tiny shop owned by Iris Viera made me a pupusa worth traveling for. Frijoles con queso, or bean and cheese, has always been my favorite as it provides the optimal texture of gooey richness ($8 for two). The rice flour made it slightly lighter than the corn variety, so your taste buds could focus on the savory beans. And those crispy grill marks, oof. I also enjoyed the carroty curtido slaw on the side, as well as the tomatoey salsa roja, which was thicker and more substantial than usual. More info: 833 Middle Country Rd., Middle Island, 631-448-8907, pupusascity.com

News outlets and NGOs condemn Hungary's new 'sovereignty protection' law as a way to silence critics

BUDAPEST, Hungary — Independent media outlets and rights groups on Wednesday condemned legislation passed by Hungary's right-wing populist government that would allow authorities to investigate and prosecute people accused of undermining the country's sovereignty.

The coalition government made up of the Fidesz and KDNP parties approved the “sovereignty protection act” on Tuesday. It calls for the creation of a new government authority that will have the power to gather information on any groups or individuals that benefit from foreign funding and that influence public debate.

The measure requires Hungary’s secret services to assist the authority in its investigations and allows prison terms of up to three years for anyone convicted of violated the new law.

Opponents of the legislation have compared it to Russia's “foreign agent” law and say its broad language can be used to arbitrarily target government critics. The country's right-wing prime minister, Viktor Orbán, has long been accused of taking over the majority of Hungary's media and building an autocratic political system that undermines democratic norms.

Representatives of 10 independent news outlets signed an open letter decrying the law, saying the Hungarian government had unjustly accused them of "serving foreign interests."

“This is a deliberate lie, which defames not only the newsrooms that do vital work for democracy, but also those Hungarians who watch, listen to and read their content,” the outlets wrote, adding that independent newsrooms in Hungary have been transparent and not benefited from “hidden funds or subsidies.”

Hungary's government argues that the law is designed to prevent political parties from receiving funding from abroad for election campaigns, as it claims was done by a coalition of six opposition parties before a 2022 parliamentary election that resulted in Orbán handily winning a fourth straight term in power.

In November, Dunja Mijatovic, the Council of Europe Commissioner for Human Rights, urged Hungary's government to retract the bill, saying it "poses a significant risk to human rights and should be abandoned.”

If the law was adopted, Mijatovic wrote at the time, it would provide Hungary's government “with even more opportunity to silence and stigmatize independent voices and opponents.”

A group of Hungarian non-governmental organizations has also condemned the law in a letter signed by seven rights groups, including Amnesty International, Transparency International and the Hungarian Civil Liberties Union.

The groups called the legislation “nothing more than a political propaganda project built upon secret service methods” and charged that it is in violation of Hungary's constitutional, international and EU obligations. They vowed to take legal action against the law and “provide support and assistance to targeted civil communities, activists and media actors.”

Passage of the law comes as Hungary remains in a protracted struggle with the European Union, which has frozen billions in funding to Budapest over concerns that Orbán's government has overseen democratic backsliding and trampled on the rights of the LGBTQ+ community and asylum seekers.

In a letter to European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen , the four largest political groupings in the EU's Parliament urged the commission to abandon a plan to free up a portion of the frozen funds after the Hungarian government made reforms to its judicial system.

The lawmakers pointed to the Hungarian sovereignty law as another sign that Orbán had not changed course, noting that that the new sovereignty authority would be under his direct control and equip him “with sweeping powers without any democratic supervision.”

“It is evident that a fair allocation of EU funds in Hungary is virtually impossible,” the lawmakers wrote.