A beginner's guide to tapas in Barcelona

I never tire of tapas. Sure, you can find them in many American cities, but for the true tapas experience, you must go to Spain. When I'm there, I can't resist stopping in local bars to munch on these small portions of seafood, salads, meat-filled pastries, deep-fried tasties, and on and on.

Chasing down a particular bar nearly defeats the purpose and spirit of tapas - they are impromptu. Just drop in at any lively place.

Barcelona boasts great "tascas" - colorful tapas bars - on Carrer de la Merce in the Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter).

FINDING A SPOT

I look for noisy bars with piles of napkins and food debris on the floor (go native and toss your trash, too), lots of locals and the TV blaring. Popular television viewing includes bullfights and soccer - rest assured the entire country will be watching today's World Cup final.

While tapas are served all day, the real action begins late - 9 p.m. at the earliest. But for beginners, an earlier start is easier and comes with less commotion.

WHAT IT COSTS

A plate of tapas typically costs about $3. To save money, avoid seafood, which can cost up to $14. Most bars push larger portions called "raciones" (dinner plate-size) rather than smaller tapas (saucer-size). Ask for the smaller tapas portions or a "media-racion" (listed as "1/2 racion" on a menu), though many bars simply don't serve anything smaller than a racion.

WHAT TO EXPECT

You'll generally eat standing up in a lot in tapas bars. (I'd much rather sit.) Standing makes sense if you're on a budget, because food and drinks are usually cheapest served at the "barra" (counter).

You'll likely pay more to sit at a "mesa" (table) and still more for a "terraza" (outdoor table). Locate the price list (often posted in fine type on a wall somewhere) to see the menu options and price tiers.

In the right place, a quiet snack and drink on a terrace on the town square is well worth the extra charge.

THE LINGO

Bars may come with a language barrier, and a small vocabulary will help you eat better.

Be assertive or you'll never be served. "Por favor" (please) grabs the guy's attention. Ask for "una tabla de canapes variados" to get a plate of various little open-face sandwiches. Or ask for a "surtido de" (an assortment of . . . ) "charcuteria" (a mixed plate of meat) or "queso" (cheese).

Order bread and two glasses of red wine, sit on the town square - and you've got a romantic dinner for two.

More adventurous? Ask for a "banderilla," a small skewer of spicy, pickled veggies. Try some pricey "jamon iberico" (cured ham from acorn-fed pigs).

Don't worry about paying until you're ready to leave; the bartender is keeping track of your tab. To get the bill, ask for "la cuenta" (or "la dolorosa" - meaning literally "the sadness").