Culturally rich San Francisco on the cheap

"There's a little bit of everywhere in San Francisco." So says a wise cabdriver at the end of a perfect weekend in this international city. With a population of just over 800,000, San Francisco is relatively small but mighty: The entire city is just about 7-by-7 miles square, but its colorful history - from the Gold Rush to the dot-com boom (and bust), from gay pride to the green movement - is written all over the place, in multiple languages.

Walk even a few blocks here (it's the best way to get around) and dozens of foreign accents hum together in an energetic buzz, melding with the whirring of passing bicycles and the clanging bells from cable cars riding up those famously steep urban hills. Beyond the city are steeper hills overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Across the bay to the east are neighbors - Berkeley, Oakland, Alameda - that celebrate the city's spirit with gorgeous campuses and tree-lined communities. And to the northeast are miles and miles of wine country.

Living in urban bliss isn't cheap, but visiting can be. The diversity in San Francisco's culture lends itself to activities that cater to just about every budget. Entertainment is as varied as the people who live here: ballet, karaoke, fashion shows, protests. Gorgeous (albeit sometimes chilly) weather encourages numerous (free) outdoor activities: hiking, biking, climbing, surfing, sailing ...

Here's a guide to spending a long weekend in San Francisco.

WALK THIS WAY FOR A WORLDLY WEEKEND

FRIDAY

Union Square, the city's pedestrian-friendly shopping hub, makes a great base from which to explore, because it's intersected by several major bus and cable-car lines.

Recommended: The Mosser hotel, a five-minute walk from Union Square. A 1913 Victorian hotel, it offers affordable, recently renovated charm. If you're on a serious budget, consider booking one of the tiny but tidy shared-bath rooms (from $79 on weekends, 800-227-3804, themosser.com). Standard doubles, from $179, are still a good deal.

Another prime-location budget spot is Hotel Stratford. Club rooms that feature flat-screen televisions, robes and free Wi-Fi (from $149) are a good catch; no-frills standard rooms (from $129) are a bargain. Booking online is easy, but the front desk will accommodate youCustomer service doesn't seem to be a priority here, but booking online saves some of the hassle (415-397-7080, hotelstratford.com).

Once you're settled in, head out. Immerse yourself in San Francisco's affordable international culture by heading into the heart of Japantown. Ride the 38 Geary bus west to Buchanan Street, where Peace Plaza and Japan Center form the hub of the neighborhood. Forget Benihana (although that's here, too): Tucked into a corner of Japan Center is Kushi Tsuru, where mouthwatering nasu dengaku (Japanese eggplants broiled in miso), fairly priced sushi and bento boxes line the menu (1680 Post St., 415-922-9902). Go easy on the Sapporos: Tomorrow's a big day.

SATURDAY

MORNING Start with a hearty breakfast at Mama's on Washington Square (415-362-6241, mamas-sf.com). It's an incredibly steep 20-minute walk straight up Stockton Street, but you will be rewarded with the best eggs Florentine you've ever had. Be prepared to stand in line for a long time, no matter how early you get there.

Work off your breakfast with a short hike up the honeysuckle-laden Filbert Steps to Coit Tower, the 210-foot Art Deco pillar overlooking the residential Telegraph Hill neighborhood below it, with views of San Francisco Bay to the east and the Golden Gate Bridge to the northwest. For $4.50, you can ride in a claustrophobic elevator to the observation deck, but the view from the hill is just as nice.

Telegraph Hill descends into North Beach, known for its deeply rooted Italian culture. The whole neighborhood smells of cappuccino. There are independent coffeehouses on every other corner; there are authentic Italian eateries and dusty old mom-and-pop bookstores. The most famous of these is City Lights, founded in 1953 as the country's first all-paperback bookshop. Today the store's late hours and cozy stacks make for a homey rendezvous (415-362-8193, citylights.com).

AFTERNOON Grab a slice at North Beach Pizza, an easy walk from both Coit Tower and City Lights. The dark wood booths and picture windows of this decades-old local favorite foster a cozy dining experience, and the amazing scents wafting from the large oven seal the deal (415-433-2444, northbeach pizza.com).

Wander from North Beach south to Chinatown via Grant Avenue, lined with Chinese grocers, bird and fish markets, restaurants, retail outlets and makeshift shrines. Everything is painted red; everything is on sale. Make a detour to tiny Ross Alley, home to the Golden Gate Fortune Cookies Co. (56 Ross Alley, 415-781-3956). Since 1962, the tiny factory has produced millions of fortune cookies, almond and sesame cookies, and extremely popular "adult" fortune cookies. Ahem.

AT NIGHT If the aromas from Chinatown's restaurants haven't lured you to a dinner joint by now, wander a little longer. A crowd lines up outside House of Nan King. It features a full English menu, but it's best to let owner Peter Fang's team choose for you. Everything is delicious, affordable and speedily delivered, making up for the sometimes lengthy wait (919 Kearny St., 415-421-1429).

If you're up for a nightcap, head to Vesuvio Cafe, a cozy saloon. Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassady put away a few drinks here back in the day (415-362-3370, vesuvio.com).

SUNDAY

MORNING It's a hike to Home Plate, so it's worth catching a cab to this no-nonsense chow joint in Cow Hollow, near the Marina District. Locals are just as happy with expertly cooked huevos rancheros as Denver omelets, but the real treat is Home Plate's cured salmon Benedict. Everything is served with a homemade scone and apple butter - amazing (415-922-4663, homeplatesf.com).

Next stop: Golden Gate Park, San Francisco's whopping 3-mile-long wonder. There's lots to see: a picturesque rose garden, bison paddock and fly-fishing pools. Begin at the Japanese Tea Garden (415-752-1171, holymtn.com), adorned with pagodas and koi ponds and serving tea daily. Weekend tram service makes exploring other corners of the park fairly easy.

If you make it to the western border, walk a few blocks farther up the coast. Here you'll find the ruins of the Sutro Baths (sutrobaths.com), which reigned as the world's largest indoor swimming pool establishment until a fire destroyed the structure in 1966. Mossy skeletons of the foundation remain and trails have been dug, making for bizarre and beautiful seaside explorations in fair weather. When it's time to return to reality, the 38 Geary bus bound for Union Square is just up the hill on 48th Avenue.

AFTERNOON After a quick rest, get a taste of the Bay Area's wine country courtesy of the Alameda-Oakland Ferry. Pick up some lunch on the way at teensy Cafe Dolci, whose Vietnamese baguette sandwich combo is a no-brainer (740 Market St., 415-392-9222). Those with a sweet tooth may want to stop at Beard Papa's, the city's resident cream puff specialist (415-978-9972, beardpapasf.com).

Continue walking northeast to the restored 1898 Beaux Arts Ferry Building, which reopened in 2003 to house ticketing offices for commuter ferries, as well as gourmet grocers and eateries.

The ferry ride to Alameda ($12.50 round-trip, eastbayferry .com) is 20 minutes, just long enough to offer a few scenic views over lunch. Hop off the ferry at Alameda and you're in urban wine country: Alameda's Rosenblum Cellars (510-865-7007, rosenblumcellars .com) is the closest winery to San Francisco - perfect for oenophiles who don't have the time (or wheels) to trek to Napa. A return ferry departs for the Ferry Building 90 minutes after drop-off, perfect timing for a tasting before heading back to the city for dinner.

AT NIGHT For one last eclectic, ethnic meal, take the 6, 7 or 71 bus west down Haight to Hayes Valley, where Axum Cafe offers Ethiopian on the cheap. Vegetarian entrees start at $7, and the place serves traditional tej (honey wine) as well as Ethiopian beer (415-252-7912, axumcafe.com).

Head home with a full belly, or wander the neighborhood for a sweet treat before bidding farewell to the City by the Bay.

TIPS

Plan to walk. Don't be discouraged by daunting-looking maps: It's likely you're navigating a lot less mileage than meets the eye, so check the scale.

Dress in layers. Year-round temperatures are mild, but fog is a way of life. Even summers can be surprisingly chilly.

Public transportation is your friend. For areas seemingly impossible to reach on foot, buses or BART work best. Both are part of the city's MUNI public transportation system, which share the same fare card. MUNI passes (but not transfers) may be used on cable cars (sfcablecar.com). Cabs are plentiful but expensive.