No pirates but lots of fun in Caribbean

In their heyday 300 years ago, pirates cruised the Caribbean, finding adventure and fortune by attacking merchant ships and seizing valuable cargo amid some of the world's most breathtaking vistas.

Now, thousands of new adventurers are retracing those early routes, also in search of gold, jewels and other booty. And, very often, the targets for these latest cruise visitors are the area's small eastern islands -- the Saints of the Caribbean.

Columbus, on his second voyage to the New World, in 1493, instilled the Catholic explorers' practice of naming the islands after patron saints, initially choosing his own. British sailors later shortened St. Christopher to St. Kitts. In the next couple centuries, the French and English supplied names to other islands, too, depending on the saint's day the land was sighted amid nine islands.

St. Barts, though, simply was named for Columbus' brother, Bartolomeo. It is a favorite rendezvous of mostly the very wealthy, not of cruise ships. Similarly, St. Vincent's is known more for its live volcano than being a port of call, and St. Croix is recovering from street crime in the last decade.

Today we stop at the most frequented islands, five whose drawing cards remain alluring weather, seductive views, myriad attractions, friendly people and, of course, duty-free shopping. Ship passengers visit each island for about eight hours, disembarking at 7 or 8 a.m. before needing to return by, usually, 4:30 p.m. Let's begin our look of each island's highlights with the buyer's nirvana.

ST. THOMAS

It shouldn't be long before reality TV debuts "Shopping in St. Thomas." The island is a mecca for bargain hunters. Whether it's jewelry, liquor, electronics, perfume, cameras, watches, designer clothes or crystal, shops offer deals galore in one of the planet's busiest cruise ports.

Just east of Charlotte Amalie, the capital city, more than 50 shops at the modern Havensight Mall beckon, a short walk from the pier. Take a longer stroll, or a short taxi ride, to visit some 400 stores downtown. Feeling spiritual? St. Thomas' synagogue, built in 1833, is the second oldest in continuous use in the Western Hemisphere.

Slide into the Skyride cable car, which climbs 700 feet in seven minutes to Paradise Point's panoramic view ($21 adults, $10.50 ages 6-12). Then hail a cab to Coral World marine park with its underwater observatory and engaging 360-degree views of sea creatures. Go next door to Coki Beach and rent snorkeling and scuba diving equipment. Or choose a four-hour ("half-day") catamaran excursion (about $75-$100 each adult plus tip). Some let you swim with the dolphins.

A 20-minute taxi ride to Magens Bay unfolds one of the world's most beloved turquoise beaches. Just seeing birds dive underwater for their lunch is worth the small admission fee.

ST. JOHN

Want a taste of two U.S. Virgin Islands for the price of one? Spend a few morning hours in St. Thomas, then take a 45-minute ferry ride to the nearby island named for St. John the Baptist.

Once there, taxi to Trunk Bay's scintillating beach. Or hop on a public bus from Cruz Bay to Coral Bay for cinematic snorkeling or seashore sunning. The more adventurous can navigate a mini-boat for private snorkeling. Or explore the wilderness of Virgin Islands National Park, which covers most of the island.

A ferry leaves Charlotte Amalie at 1 p.m. and departs St. John at 3:45 p.m., in time to board your ship ($24 round-trip; $7 younger than 12). Want to spend more than two hours on St. John? Climb aboard the 10 a.m. ferry from St. Thomas.

ST. LUCIA

This independent island, it's said, was named after St. Lucy of Syracuse, patron saint of the blind, whose vision miraculously returned after being tortured. And what a sight this piece of the Lesser Antilles is, with the most prominent visage being the Pitons, dramatic twin volcanic mountains emerging from the sea. Soufrière, a small fishing village, boasts two big attractions, Diamond Botanical Gardens and the world's only drive-though volcano. Something else you won't see on any other island are the mineral baths built in 1784 for French King Louis XVI's troops.

Riding along the many hairpin turns, one sees how Hurricane Tomas devastated the island's plentiful banana trees in October. A stop at an exquisite overlook, high above four docked cruise ships, enables vendors to hawk multicolored summer dresses, caps, jewelry, mugs and hand-carved crafts. At another break, a man offers to weave a basket of palm tree leaves, and returning to the pier we see a wall with historic murals. By the ship's terminal, a picturesque, tree-lined outdoor shopping plaza tempts every tourist's whim.

ST. KITTS

Along with its smaller volcanic sister island of Nevis, St. Kitts' sugar cane and pineapple fields and tropical rain forests are ringed by postcard beaches. Frequent ferries connect both islands.

The pastel buildings of downtown Basseterre, the capital of both islands, demand taking colorful shots. Four main streets offer leisurely shopping, with cars limited to 25 mph.

A taxi tour reveals a single street of neat houses lying in the shadow of a lush, small mountain. Many other homes, though, are mere rusted metal shacks dotting this otherwise beautiful stretch of land. A "bottle tree," with dozens of emptied fifths of liquor suspended from one forgiving tree's branches, is unforgettable. At one scenic seaside patch of green, nearly 20 goats graze, oblivious to the passing tourists. The gardens of Romney Manor, once owned by Thomas Jefferson's grandfather, are a photographer's nirvana.

In 1926, after a 15-year project, the "Last Railway in the West Indies" was built to transport sugar cane to the Basseterre mill. Now it's a three-hour tour, but at $89 ($49 kids) costing plenty more than an LIRR commute. The brave can take a shuttle bus to the Wingfield Estate, where Sky Safaris offers five two- to three-hour zip lines through a rain forest and onetime plantation. Or skip over to a beach to ride a horse across pearly sands.

ST. MAARTEN/MARTIN

In 1648, this island was divided, legend claims, when a Frenchman and Dutchmen walked from opposite sides of the island and met where today's boundaries remain. Ships dock in the south of St. Maarten at the Dutch capital of Philipsburg. Dawn Beach lures snorkelers and body surfers.

A unique taxi stop is Maho Beach, hugging Princess Juliana International Airport. Our driver advises us to avoid the water if low-flying larger planes arrive so windswept cameras don't get doused in the Caribbean. Man of War Shoal Marine Park, the island's first national park, opened this year.

Another must-see is Marigot, the French capital of St. Martin on the north shore. If sailing on an America's Cup yacht is your fancy, climb aboard a cup winner. Take advantage of dozens of sun-drenched cabanas selling French perfume and native crafts -- stone turtles, Haitian paintings, T-shirts and batik wraps. (Certain French beaches come unwrapped, with bathing suits optional.) Stroll past a group of men playing dominoes by the market as you sip a tropical combination featuring kiwi, mango, pineapple, banana, orange or even star fruit.

Still thirsty? Get another flavor of the island with guavaberry, the native rum. Returning to the ship near Front Street, passengers can sample a coconut smoothie or shop for jewelry, electronics and leather.

TAXI TIPS

Touring by taxi van is the most vivid and economical way to see the Caribbean. A group van lets you see more than most single excursions can. Taxis await near the dock or downtown. Most prices are regulated, but gypsy drivers exist, so ask for a license. Negotiating a lower fee works best in the afternoon, when fewer passengers hail taxis. And bring extra cash and a tote bag for purchases. These tips will also make for a smoother visit:

* Settle on a price before you settle into the van. Although most use dollars, specify which currency you're using.

* Join a group. A two- to four-hour ride for three with two to nine other passengers costs $20 to $25 each plus tip. You would pay double or triple if you travel alone as a small family. If you seek destinations not on the route, it can cost more.

* Find a driver who speaks well and has a sense of humor. This will make the two- to four-ride seem shorter and livelier.

* Ask where you will be stopping and how long the drive is.

* If your driver provides a good show, your tips will prompt a warm Caribbean smile.

BEFORE YOU GO

Enhance your Caribbean experience by learning about the islands in advance. Sketch out your on-land itineraries. Taxi or excursion? The best way to decide this is to do Internet research or visit your local library. Check your ship's online excursions list.

Travel guides Get current books. Three of the best: "Fodor's Caribbean Ports of Call," "Frommer's Caribbean Ports of Call" and DK's "Eyewitness Travel." And check out the colorful Questar DVD "Cruise Eastern Caribbean," which highlights four Saints.

Web info Googling an island or Eastern Caribbean results in an overflow of sites. Three of the best give you balanced information, especially tourist feedback: tripadvisor.com, cruisecritic.com and virtualtourist.com.

Plan shopping Research prices before departing. This year, up to $1,600 of each person's island purchases are duty-free (with half from the U.S. Virgin Islands -- St. Thomas and St. John). Go online and find out how much favorite perfumes, jewelry, liquor or other goodies cost. When you're faced with "bargains" in duty-free shops at the airport, on the ship or in port, you'll have good ammunition.

READER PICKS

We asked Newsday readers to share their recommendations of must-see attractions on St. Kitts and St. John, particularly for cruisers visiting just for the day. Here are some of their responses.

ST. KITTS

Scenic railway The green locomotive and red-white-and-green cars look like a storybook train. You sit on the open top level or below inside the open-air car while passing fields of sugar cane, with cows grazing near goats and a donkey. Especially heartwarming are the villagers, particularly the children, all dressed to greet the train as it passes. The horn sounded and they emerged, smiling and waving.

Submitted by Gloria Schramm, Bellmore

Two taxi stops A cabdriver took us on a tour of St. Kitts, and a couple of attractions stand out. The Brimstone Hill Fortress -- the views from the top of the fort are breathtaking. We also enjoyed Romney Manor house, which used to be an old sugar plantation. The gardens were exquisite.

Submitted by Ann Lamberti, St. James

Best of isle Top three ideas: 1. Take a tour of the entire island by cab. 2. Have a meal at Marshall's, which is on a beautiful rise above the rugged coastline. The conch chowder and grilled seafood are excellent. Incredible views of the coastline and ocean. 3. Swim at the beach located at the Marriott.

Submitted by Mike Solomon, Northport

Nevis Botanical Garden We ferried from St. Kitts to Nevis and toured the Botanical Garden and Rainforest Conservatory. Lush gardens, beautiful tropical plants, flowers, trees and sacred sculptures. On the beach in Nevis is a small shack, Sunshine's Bar & Grill, known for its drink the Killer Bee. Many celebrities have been to Sunshine's, including Elvis Presley, and a wall of photos proves it.

Submitted by Hilda Pezzotti, Hicksville

ST. JOHN

Hiker's scenery St. John is a place that cleanses your spirit with the most breathtaking scenery imaginable. It is a hiker's paradise and a great place for scenic drives. At the beach, the water actually feels like a Calgon bath.

Submitted by Kathie & Tom Plant, Kings Park

Snorkeler's delight St. John is a quiet island with beautiful beaches, no crowds, lots of hiking trails and excellent restaurants. We have our favorite places to snorkel with stingrays and tropical fish, and others with turtles. In Coral Bay we snorkeled with hundreds of starfish. For landlubbers, there are frequent sightings of wild donkeys, iguanas and mongooses, as well as hummingbirds.

Submitted by Sheila Ziegler, Melville

Beachcomber's strolls St. John is the United States' best-kept secret for beauty, pristine beaches and gorgeous views. Going for a swim and strolling on a long horseshoe-shaped beach is my favorite thing to do. Ranger hikes are second. The National Park shouldn't be missed.

Submitted by Jane Schiralli, Hicksville

Swimmer's sanctuary Our favorite things to do on St. John are go to the beaches -- namely Hawksnest, Trunk Bay and Cinnamon Bay -- and relax, walk the beach and swim in the most beautiful water we have ever seen.

Submitted by Anita & Len Nowak, East Meadow