Northeastern getaways to take this fall
Another year of summer travel is coming to a close.
And maybe that’s not a bad thing. This season saw record visitor numbers in Europe, up 12% from 2023. That prompted tax hikes meant to curb overtourism (some say to little avail), and even antitourism protests, not to mention the all-too-familiar deluge of FOMO-inducing social media posts.
So before you slip too deeply into a post-vacation fog, take heart. There are still a few glorious weeks of summer left, and then early autumn will usher in its annual leaf-peeping mania. There’s plenty of time left for warm-weather excursions, especially as record heat gives way to more pleasant temperatures.
Sweetening the deal: While all eyes this summer were on Paris, Greece’s Santorini and Italy’s Lake Como, the American Northeast was basking in the glow of new hotels and inns that promise their own glamorous getaways, all quickly accessible from New York City.
Hemlock Neversink, for example, is a new wellness resort in the western Catskills that claims 6 miles of wilderness trails, a goat sanctuary and an over-the-top spa within its private domain. It’s the perfect last hurrah to summer, filled with bonfires, arts and crafts, hiking and heavenly massages-and, as the leaves of its great oaks turn yellow and orange for fall, it’s also a worthy antidote to the end-of-summer blues.
Here are the five Northeast spots for a weekend away, depending on what kind of break you’re seeking.
Best for one last beach break: Silver Sands Motel
1400 Silvermere Rd., Greenport
To see how Long Island’s North Fork has grown in popularity as the cool kids’ alternative to the been-there-done-that Hamptons, look no further than this 1950s motel, which was stripped down to its studs and converted into a super-stylish hangout for the jet set. One of its most prized features is original: It has its own private beach, a rarity in these parts. But now the property also includes all the perks of a veritable oceanfront resort, with 12 stand-alone bungalows, beach houses and cottages complementing the 20 motel rooms that face Peconic Bay and Shelter Island.
Despite all those additions, a retro milieu remains. There are giant Noguchi-style lanterns, pops of vibrant color and, in the just-completed Casa de Buddy beach house, iconic furnishings such as a De Sede DS-600 modular sofa. The two restaurants from chef Ryan Hardy (Charlie Bird, Pasquale Jones) meld old-school and new-school, too: Eddie’s, the hard-to-get-into beach club, is a perfect complement to the 1950s-style diner Nookies.
More info 631-997-1957, silversandsmotel.com
Best for a spa weekend: Hemlock Neversink
7491 State RTE 55, Neversink, New York
The lofty reincarnation of a 1970s destination spa called New Age really does live up to its old name. But this 230-acre retreat, which opened last October, offers an updated twist on new-age wellness. Gone are the stringent dietary restrictions and prescriptive programming-not to mention the colonic room. Now, the place gives off a laid-back summer-camp vibe. You can make candles, learn to knit or take up painting in the activity building; join a movement class in the studio or take a dip in the retro-cool solarium pool. Or tap into simpler times by stargazing, s’mores-making or hiking with goats.
The old guest quarters have been updated, too, with wood furnishings bearing classic Quaker spindle design, custom-patterned blankets and skylights that welcome each morning’s first rays of sun. (If your wellness journey requires more shut-eye, the electronic shades are a blessing.) And its Bittersweet restaurant doesn’t peddle your classic wellness retreat food, either. The menu includes daily changing prix fixe options, featuring such dishes as banh mi tofu wraps and skirt steak with grilled chicories.
More info 845-985-1183, hemlockneversink.com
Best for history lovers: The Norumbega
63 High St., Camden, Maine
There’s no dearth of quaint bed-and-breakfasts in Camden, but there’s only one castle. Set a stone’s throw away from Penobscot Bay, a 10-minute walk from Camden’s harbor and town center, the Norumbega was constructed in the late 1800s by the inventor Joseph Barker Stearns as an homage to Europe’s great regal homes. Although it changed hands a few times in the ensuing century, today it remains in remarkably splendid condition under the auspices of its newest owners, Brett Haynie and Will Tims. The innkeepers-a trained opera singer and an architect, respectively-oversaw a stunning restoration of its extravagant wood details, turreted architecture and beautifully manicured grounds to make every stay as opulent as Stearns surely would have liked.
Stay the night in Stearns’ old library-now a duplex-style guest room with thousands of books lining the mezzanine-or the Penthouse, carved into the castle’s old eaves, where the inventor preferred to sleep on rainy nights. On the main level, admire a level of artistry virtually unknown today: elaborate carved fireplaces and benches, intricate coffers and decorative floors. It’s all complemented by Haynie and Tims’ collection of art, books and antique objects.
More info 207-236-4646, norumbegainn.com
Best for leaf-peeping luxury: The Weston
630 Main St., Weston, Vermont
Vermonters will tell you the summer crowds are nothing compared with the fall swarms. Just when the season winds down in other destinations, the cooler weather brings leaf peepers in droves. This year the most in-the-know of them will be headed to Vermont’s Green Mountains to visit the Weston, a country-style retreat from the same multigenerational hospitality clan behind the Carlyle in Manhattan and the Saranac Inn in upstate New York.
For the Sharp family’s newest addition-which it’s dubbed the "crown jewel" of its portfolio-the goal was to create something intimate, with just nine guest rooms. Each one feels like a much-loved bedroom in a private residence, with hand-painted fireplaces, 18th century antique cabinetry, Diptyque toiletries and soaking tubs. Even so, the grand hospitality of the family’s well-known hotels is baked into the experience, with a French bistro, an extensive wine cellar, a farm and a compact spa-and-wellness facility. Put yourself in the team’s hands, and they’ll curate all sorts of local experiences for you, from pheasant hunting to glassblowing workshops.
More info 802-824-5000, thewestonvt.com
Best for a classic inn experience: The Henson
39 Goshen Rd., Hensonville, New York
Hensonville is one of the Catskills region’s many one-stoplight towns, but its location near the base of Windham Mountain-a beloved ski resort and posh members club-makes it a prime spot for a getaway any time of year. Owners Danielle and Ely Franko purchased the hamlet’s only hotel, then the ailing Hensonville Hotel, in late 2021 and spent more than two years meticulously transforming it from dusty old inn to magnificent 16-room design retreat. The finished product is filled with custom woodwork, vintage midcentury furniture finds and an extensive collection of art, including a beautiful wall of painted portraits inherited from Ely’s Turkish grandparents.
The restaurant, Matilda, is a destination unto itself: It’s a collaboration with chef Jeremiah Stone and restaurateur Fabian von Hauske Valtierra of New York City’s beloved Contra. Dishes such as the smoked steelhead trout, Amish chicken and Highland Hollow strip loin make delicious use of the region’s agricultural abundance-and they’re made even better when paired with views of Danielle’s flowering gardens, just beyond the dining terrace.
More info 518-734-4160, thehenson.com