How to buy, clean and cook mussels

If you are intimidated by the idea of cooking mussels, you are not alone. But it is easy, really. And these tasty bivalves are highly nutritious: they are a great source of protein (ounce for ounce, they are higher in protein than most fish), low in calories and saturated fat, and high in iron and other nutrients. Especially important these days — mussels are a relative bargain compared with most seafood.

How to Buy Mussels

Farmed mussels are one of the most sustainable kinds of seafood you can buy, according to the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s watchdog group, Seafood Watch. Farmed mussels have a sweeter, more subtle flavor than wild, and are also generally less sandy.

While mussels vary in size, a serving is about 1 to 1 ½ pounds of mussels in the shell. Each pound is about 20 mussels, which yields 3 to 4 ounces of meat.

How to Store Mussels

When you get mussels home, store them in the back of the refrigerator in a bowl and cover with a damp paper towel. (Do not store them in water). They will keep well for a couple of days.

Mussels that don’t open when they are cooked, or those that have a cracked or chipped shell, should not be eaten.

How to Cook Mussels

If you see a clump of coarse looking hair or threads on one side of the shell, don’t fret. It’s called the beard, which is how mussels attach to surfaces in farms or the wild. Most farmed mussels barely have beards, but if yours does, pull it up and down several times to pull it out. (Don’t try to yank it straight out.)

Before Cooking: Shells should close when tapped against the counter. That tells you mussels are alive — and they should be alive when you cook them. Rinse mussels briefly under cold water.

Cooking: You want to steam (not boil) mussels. Boiling makes the meat tough; steaming keeps it tender.

After Cooking: Discard any mussels that don’t open when you cook them.

Mussels with Fennel, Tomato, and Wine

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 medium onion, chopped (1 cup)

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon dried basil

1 fennel bulb, about 8 ounces, chopped (save any feathery frond for garnish)

3 plum tomatoes, about 12 ounces, chopped

1 cup dry white wine

3 pounds (about 60) mussels

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Swirl in the butter until melted. Add the onion, garlic and basil; cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion starts to soften, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the fennel and cook until slightly softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and cook until wilted, 2 minutes. Pour in the wine and salt, bring to a boil and cook 3 minutes.

Add the mussels, cover the pot and cook until the mussels steam open, 5 to 6 minutes. (Discard any unopened shells).

MAKES 2-3 SERVINGS