The fried chicken thigh sandwich at Barrow Food House in...

The fried chicken thigh sandwich at Barrow Food House in Aquebogue. Credit: Randee Daddona

Long Island restaurants usher in fall with new menus, heated outdoor spaces and creative touches that make dining out memorable long after the check has been paid. Use the links below to explore what interests you most.

FALL OUTDOOR DININGNEW RESTAURANTS ● BEER GARDENS ● PIZZA GARDENS ● ON THE PUMPKIN / APPLE PICKING TRAIL

FALL OUTDOOR DINING EXPERIENCES

 Good Ground Tavern

239 E. Montauk Hwy., Hampton Bays

The jewel of Hampton Bays’ new Canoe Place luxury, Good Ground Tavern encompasses two rustic-sleek dining rooms, a cozy bar and, shaded by billowing green-and-white-striped awnings, one of Long Island’s loveliest terraces for eating al fresco. Ülfet Ralph, an American-trained native of Istanbul, has crafted a contemporary menu that ranges from Mediterranean-tinged summer melon gazpacho with fennel and yogurt, Peconic Bay clam pizza with Calabrian chili and caciocavallo cheese, olive-oil-poached halibut with spinach and puttanesca sauce and summer-vegetable risotto to wood-grilled scallops with summer pole beans and cauliflower purée to more American fare such as a Wagyu cheeseburgers and roasted heritage chicken with hen of the woods mushrooms. More info: 631-763-6300, canoeplace.com

Arlo Kitchen & Bar

1036 Fort Salonga Rd., Northport

Built onto the side of a hill above the winding streets of Northport, the swank two-story supper club is stunning, like a glimpse of old New York seen through the eyes of an Instagram-savvy millennial. The menu dances between steakhouse staples like wedge salads and a raw bar to trendier mashups like a fried chicken sandwich with smashed burrata cheese. The romantic outdoor dining patio is surrounded by lush trees and greenery, with heat towers. More info: 631-491-2756, arlokitchenandbar.com

2 Spring

2 Spring St., Oyster Bay

This polished New American restaurant has an Instagram-ready streetside patio decked out with burlap, sheepskin throws, pillows and string lights. Elevated small plates run from light bites (caviar and smoked bacon) to seasonal fish. Reservations for Friday and Saturday are suggested. More info: 516-624-2411, 2springstreet.com

Centro Trattoria

336 W. Montauk Hwy., Hampton Bays

An outdoor fireplace creates a measure of coziness on chilly evenings, but Centro’s gravel piazza builds a case for warm ones too, with strings of party lights swooping down from blond wood beams, bringing a friendly glow to the white tablecloth dining area. Equally unexpected: the seriousness with which area old-timers play the bocce courts on select evenings. More info: 631-594-5744, centrohamptons.com

Diners on the outside patio at Centro Trattoria in Hampton...

Diners on the outside patio at Centro Trattoria in Hampton Bays. Credit: Gordon M. Grant

Gatsby's Landing

1362 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn

Head to the back deck overlooking Roslyn Pond to dine on New American classics with a striking view of fall's foliage splendor taking shape. Tables here seat up to four people and are first come, first served, but the vantage point from the rear of the main dining room isn't bad, either. More info: 516-277-2318, gatsbyslanding.com

Lucha Farm

177 Main St., Center Moriches

Part of Marc LaMaina’s growing empire of Lucharitos restaurants, “the farm” rambles over more than an acre of multiple outdoor dining areas. The menu will be familiar to patrons of the original Lucharitos in Greenport and its outposts in Aquebogue, Mattituck and Melville. The exuberant take on Mexican and Mexican American street food — tacos filled with coconut shrimp, quesadillas made with local duck — may all be washed down with premium tequilas, beer and Mexican soft drinks. More info: 631-400-9625, lucharitos.com

Maria's Mexican & Latin Cuisine

211 Smithtown Blvd., Nesconset

It's hard not to do a double-take at the oasis of tropicalia on the east side of Smithtown Boulevard in Nesconset. Blooming hibiscus bushes, palm trees and strings of twinkling lights blanket the stone patio of Maria's, lending it a transportive vibe, with outdoor tables wedged into the patio's nooks. A long roster of margaritas deepens the Caribbean vibe and the menu takes you across many countries, from ceviche to Mexican tamales to Cubana-style quesadillas and Argentinian-style churrasco steak. For a final romantic flourish, share a churro sundae. More info: 631-979-7724, marias211.com

The Refuge

515 Broadhollow Rd., Melville

The indoor-outdoor restaurant perched along Route 110 is a magnet for after-work gatherings or meeting up with friends on the weekend. There's a long list of specialty cocktails, plus easy-to-share apps and pizzas. Weekend brunch, offered 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays, offers a crowd-pleasing menu of eggs, loaded waffles, bowls, salads and beyond to be enjoyed in the modern rustic dining room or outdoor patio. More info: 631-577-4444, refuge110.com

Diners at The Refuge in Melville.

Diners at The Refuge in Melville. Credit: Angela Datre

ITA Kitchen

45 W. Main St., Bay Shore

This Italian restaurant turned its side and back patios into an outdoor dining wonderland, where guests can dine within private open-air cabanas, greenhouses (and later in the season, igloos) that seat six to eight people. All feature mini chandeliers, heaters and music that guests can largely control. Reservations require a $200 minimum spend on weekends. More info: 631-267-5916, itakitchenbayshore.com

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NEW FALL RESTAURANTS

Tocolo Cantina

120 Village Square, Glen Cove

It’s been eight years since Lloyd Rosenman and his partners opened the modern Mexican Tocolo Cantina in a shopping center on a busy stretch of Old Country Road in Garden City. For his second act, Rosenman went in an entirely different direction: downtown Glen Cove. Tocolo 2.0 takes up residence in Village Square, the new luxury apartment building that is a cornerstone of the city’s hoped-for renaissance, and it is a big, beautiful affair with multiple stylish dining rooms, a lively bar and outdoor seating in Village Square’s urban piazza. All the classics are here — guacamole, tacos (including carnitas, grilled fish, tempura avocado and birria), burritos, enchiladas, fajitas, quesadillas — plus some less traditional dishes such as Mexican Cobb salad, loaded fries with melted Chihuahua cheese and chorizo, salmon “Yucateco” with mangos and hot peppers, and Negra Modelo-braised short ribs on corn polenta. Your GPS may not know that “120 Village Square” is at the corner of Glen and Bridge streets. More info: 516-222-0060, tocolocantina.com

Chicken tinga enchilada at Tocolo Cantina in Glen Cove.

Chicken tinga enchilada at Tocolo Cantina in Glen Cove. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Pappa Gallo

273 Sunrise Hwy., Rockville Centre

With its dramatic nightclub vibe — dim lighting accented by neon, a stage for live music, a massive backlit bar — Rockville Centre's new Peruvian restaurant is a stunner. Chef Emmanuel Piqueras hails from Lima, Peru, and elevates his native cuisine with classic ceviche and tiradito starters ($17 — 19), potato causas layered with snow crab salad and shrimp chicharron, and papa a la huincaina ($15) or boiled potatoes with a cheesy piquant sauce. Popular street foods like anticuchos ($17), or skewered veal hearts and salchipapas ($16), or sliced hot dogs and fries, join entrees for the table including lomo saltado ($34), a beef stir-fry doused with aji Amarillo sauce served over French fries and rice, and arroz de mariscos ($30), Peru’s answer to paella. The rotisserie chicken, here cooked low and slow for 24 hours, is served in whole or half-sized portions. With a bar this festive, drinks like the Pisco Sour, Peru’s national cocktail, shouldn’t be missed. More info: 516-208-3220, mypappagallo.com

El Verano

10 Windmill Lane, Southampton

Julian Medina, one of NYC's original Mexican chefs, has opened El Verano, which means "summer" in Spanish, on a highly visible corner of Southampton's Windmill Lane. Bringing his upscale Mexican to the East End was not in the cards for Medina, who has a summer home in Quogue, until he saw the space that would ultimately become El Verano. The décor is inspired by the vacation homes in Mexican cities like Cuernavaca and Valle de Bravo — casual yet nostalgic — and while there are familiar Mexican favorites on the menu like tacos, quesadillas, and enchiladas, expect them with an upscale twist; lobster tacos, fluke birria tacos, huitlacoche quesadillas made with corn fungus (a Mexican delicacy) and truffles, branzino with salsa verde, duck carnitas. Medina will highlight seasonal ingredients from nearby farms like Sang Lee and Indian Neck, as well as local fish and meats — oysters, chicken, duck — cooked ala brasa, or simply on the grill. More info: 631-377-3050, elveranony.com

Schnitzels

77 Main St., Stony Brook

With its midcentury furnishings, stained glass medallions, tufted banquettes and sturdy captain’s chairs, Schnitzels looks like it’s been in the Stony Brook Village Center since the country’s first planned shopping center opened in 1941. The self-described German gastropub opened in July, a collaboration between beer nut Dave Striffler (owner of Brew Cheese in Stony Brook and Northport) and Callie and Tim Martino (who own Crazy Beans retro diners in Stony Brook, Miller Place and Greenport). The beer list is extraordinary: In addition to about a dozen cans and bottles, there are six taps (among current brews: Radeberger Pilsener, Hofbrau Original Lager and the restaurant’s own Hefeweizen, brewed by Sand City in Lindenhurst) plus another dozen cans and bottles. Schnitzels (fried cutlets) headline the menu in all their glory: Wienerschnitzel (with brown sauce), Schmandschnitzel (cool-sour cream sauce), Rahmschnitzel (cream sauce) and Jagerschnitzel (mushroom-onion gravy). You’ll also find wursts from Karl Ehmer in Patchogue, Bavarian pretzels, Flammkuchen tart, Rouladen and Sauerbraten. On the non-German front: Burgers, chicken sandwiches, salads, flatbreads, honey-Dijon salmon and fish and chips. Splitting the difference are the pasta classics, primavera and mac-and-cheese, made with spaetzle. More info: 631-675-1478, eat-schnitzels.com

A Bavarian cheeseboard (tucked inside a giant pretzel) at Schnitzels...

A Bavarian cheeseboard (tucked inside a giant pretzel) at Schnitzels in Stony Brook. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Seven

777 W Beech St., Long Beach

Can there be too many Italian restaurants in Long Beach? That's the feeling Marco Almeida was getting, so he transformed his Italian restaurant into a bohemian chic lounge. Marco and his brother Hugo recently reopened Seven in the cavernous space that used to hold 7Seventy7. The brothers brought on consultants to update the menu and interior decorating scheme, which now straddles the line between nightclub and your cultured aunt who's into thrift shopping. The vodka diabla ($26) is one of the best items on the menu, fat rigatoni smothered in a zippy pink sauce and topped with a bulb of creamy burrata cheese. But more exciting: Marco said they're working on adding a couple of Portuguese dishes — grilled octopus and salt cod bacalao — to the menu. More info: 516-544-6173, sevenlb.com

Sparrow

829 Franklin Ave., Garden City

The owners of Sparrow Kitchen & Cocktails are involved in more than a dozen crowd-pleasing eateries on Long Island but, for Sparrow, they looked to chef-driven restaurants like 2 Spring in Oyster Bay and Fauna in Westhampton Beach. “They wanted to bring that kind of experience to Garden City,” said executive chef-partner Michael Wydro. His fish chops are on full display in such dishes as market crudo with seasonal accompaniments, linguine nero with shrimp, calamari and roasted chilies; bucatini cacio e pepe; pan-roasted halibut and a daily whole fish. Wydro also offers dishes in a more “eclectic New American” vein: Cobb and Caesar salads; a half-pound burger with hand-cut fries; and a 14-ounce aged, prime New York strip steak with 1,000-layer potato and chimichurri. At the bar — where all juices are fresh, infusions homemade — there’s a burnt-orange Negroni, a spicy watermelon margarita and “the St. Paul” with gin, elderflower, lime and thyme. Partner Joseph Sparacello, a local builder, took on the construction, replacing the barn-moderne décor of the former Mighty Quinn’s BBQ with a coolly elegant design. More info: 516-475-3211, sparrowkitchenandcocktails.com

Youta Ramen

58 Old Country Rd., Mineola

Once a niche noodle, ramen has hit the big time on Long Island. It seems like every week brings a new spot serving a familiar lineup of tonkotsu, miso, shoyu and spicy broths; slurp and repeat. “We never thought about the competition,” said Youta Ramen’s co-owner Pat Boon, a seasoned restaurateur who worked at Sripraphai in Williston Park. “If you have money, you can open a restaurant. But when you have passion, your customers can taste the difference.” Both Boon and his partner, chef Thanontuch Tyler Laiamnuay, are Thai by birth and ramen by choice. They have created a shrine to their shared love of the savory Japanese kitchen in general and tonkotsu ramen in particular. Laiamnuay’s tonkotsu (pork) broth is a thing of beauty, and his menu also includes filled steamed buns and five “donburi,” rice bowls topped with fried chicken, sliced pork, shrimp and vegetable tempura, or freshwater eel. This little corner storefront housed a succession of short-lived Peruvian restaurants whose rather slapdash décors have been expunged by Youta’s bright design, a blend of stone, wood and Japanese banners, and masks. More info: 516-447-6995, youtaramen.com

Youta Ramen in Mineola.

Youta Ramen in Mineola. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Smok-Haus

954 South Broadway, Hicksville

You’ll need to squint to see the Smok-Haus logo at the barbecue spot’s new location, sandwiched between a hair salon and a billiards-supply house in a strip mall in Hicksville. Open the door to the narrow shop and all you’ll see are three ordering kiosks and a cashier. What you can’t see is the 2,500 square-foot kitchen where Manny Voumvourakis is smoking meats not only for Hicksville but for catering orders and for the original Smok-Haus in Garden City (a Newsday Top 100 restaurant), which no longer has the space to serve and smoke. Since it debuted in 2018, Smok-Haus has expanded its offerings beyond the classic ribs, pulled pork, brisket and wings. Now you’ll find supernal smoked pastrami and porchetta, dark-chocolate chili, fried chicken sandwiches and more than a dozen tacos that bestow international twists (Mexican, Korean, Greek, Italian) to the smoked meats.  This location is takeout only. More info: 516-400-7102, smok-haus.com

Angelo’s of Little Italy

221 Broadway, Amityville

Manhattan’s Little Italy is now a touristy shadow of its former self, but even in its heyday, Angelo’s of Mulberry St. was a neighborhood standout, offering excellent, authentic Neapolitan fare in a lively dining room that welcomed luminaries from Pres. Reagan to Kobe Bryant. Tina Aprea’s father ran Angelo’s for almost 50 years until his death in 2017, after which the restaurant fell victim to a devastating fire and was finally done in by COVID. “But the food was too good to waste,” said Aprea, whose Amityville Angelo’s opened last month. “So I took my two chefs who worked with my dad for 30 years and brought them out here.” The menu has expanded but still includes Mulberry St.’s legendary dishes: the spiedini di mozzarella alla Romano, a heavenly mélange of bread and melted cheese in a divine pool of lemon wine sauce; a brightly flavorful octopus salad with garlic, celery and lemon; on-the-money linguine with clams; and an enormous veal chop stuffed prosciutto and mozzarella. (“If you eat this, you need a three-hour nap,” according to Aprea.) New items include arancini stuffed with mozzarella and a hint of Gorgonzola, and spaghetti with blue crab sauce. Tradition returns with the dessert menu, highlighted by a trio of profiteroles filled with vanilla cream and rolled in chocolate sauce. More info: 631-464-4590

Mito Modern Japanese Cuisine

476 Smith Haven Mall, Lake Grove

Mito is a Queens-based Asian fusion concept that's got some savvy marketing chops, going for a highbrow Japanese experience you might see on social media. Its first Long Island location recently opened in the Smith Haven Mall spot that used to be P.F. Chang's. Most of the one-page menu belongs to sushi, but patrons aren't given the usual paper sheet and pencil to order. Instead, choose from a small selection of maki rolls, sushi and sashimi combo plates and elaborate rolls. The Joker roll ($18) has high-quality tuna and salmon, with fresh sushi rice and a pleasing sweet chile sauce that ties it all together. The selections got downright omakase level when the server recommended a toro fatty tuna not on the menu. The three nigiri arrived topped with tiny crowns of gold leaf for the ultimate refinement, one piece faintly torched so that the flesh had just started to cook. More info: 631-258-8778, themito.com

The Joker roll at Mito Modern Japanese Cuisine in Lake Grove.

The Joker roll at Mito Modern Japanese Cuisine in Lake Grove. Credit: Newsday/Andi Berlin

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BEER GARDENS

Dark Horse Tavern

12 S. Park Ave., Rockville Centre

This pub provides a buoyant crowd and a laid-back, Old World-style place to mingle, watch a game and enjoy bar food. Specializing in craft beer, it also features a large courtyard that's open all year. Other locations at 273 Main St. in Farmingdale and 1029A Park Blvd. in Massapequa Park. More info: 516-442-5477, darkhorservc.com

Garden Social

1964 Hempstead Tpke., East Meadow

Outside, the landscaped beer garden sits beneath a towering cedar pergola. The 20-plus taps feature Long Island and New York State beers almost exclusively, and there are even more craft beers in bottles and cans. More info: 516-750-5338, gardensocialli.com

The Garden Social Ale and a pretzel with mustard and...

The Garden Social Ale and a pretzel with mustard and cheese sauce at Garden Social in East Meadow. Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

Plattduetsche Park Restaurant

1132 Hempstead Tpke., Franklin Square

This century-old German American restaurant with an outdoor area is the closest Long Island has to a traditional German beer garden, with tables spread across a concrete patio. There also is an outdoor bar, a bratwurst pit, a dance floor and a bandshell, where cover bands get the party started. More info: 516-354-3131, parkrestaurant.com

Southampton Publick House

62 Jobs Lane, Southampton

Grab one of the house-brewed beers, such as Double white or Burton IPA, to accompany the classic pub fare at this spot's pretty patio and outdoor bar. More info: 631-283-2800, publick.com

Root + Branch

360 Marconi Blvd., Copiague

This brewery opened  last summer in an old wood shop that was converted into an eight-tank brewery. The entrance is located on Railroad Avenue. The brewery has beers on tap and in cans. The outdoor beer garden consists of picnic tables with  umbrellas for  up to six people. Enjoy  wood-fired pies from a pizza truck Thursday through Sunday. Order from a local restaurant or bring in food Monday through Wednesday only. More info: rootandbranchbrewing.com

Everyone Stands Beneath Their Own Dome Of Heaven, left, Ibidem,...

Everyone Stands Beneath Their Own Dome Of Heaven, left, Ibidem, and Satanic Black Magic at Root + Branch Brewing in Copiague. Credit: Randee Daddona

Prost Grill & Garten

652 Franklin Ave., Garden City

Prost’s patio with three picnic tables is part of the restaurant's sudsy appeal, furthered by Spaten Oktoberfest and Hofbräu Original. The main dining area sports tables made from old bowling alley wood, the German eagle flag, the blue-and-white banner of Bavaria  and a hearty menu with wursts, burgers and chicken wings. More info: 516-427-5656, prostgrill.com

Repeal XVIII Cocktail Lounge & Beer Garden

30 New St., Huntington

This spot features a rustic lounge atmosphere with two rooms, each with its own bar, in addition to an outdoor beer garden. Enjoy craft cocktails and a large selection of local, domestic and imported craft beers. More info: 631-629-5878, repealxviii.com

Southpaw Brewing Company

501 Boulevard E., Yaphank

This brewery opened this past spring with an outdoor beer garden featuring a patio and a lounge. The patio area has nine tables (one for eight people and eight tables for four), most with umbrellas and a few under a pergola. The outdoor lounge area has woven wicker chairs with cushions around a rectangle firepit under a second pergola. Craft beer selection includes American lager, IPA, Irish nitro stout, sours, session ale, blonde ale, double IPA, hazy IPA,  mandala IPA  and more.  Two hard ciders (apple and pear)  and hard seltzers are available. The menu features Bavarian pretzels, brick-oven pizzas, burgers, sandwiches and salads. More info: 631-504-6167, southpawbrewingco.com

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ON THE PUMPKIN / APPLE PICKING TRAIL

Picking a bushel of apples and hauling pumpkins straight from the field works up an appetite, as does sitting in the car inching along Suffolk's notoriously traffic-clogged roads during fall harvest season. You'll want a place to eat with a crowd-pleasing menu that doesn't require reservations.

MID-SUFFOLK

Painters’ Restaurant

416 S. Country Rd., Brookhaven

A rollicking place with equally high-spirited fare ranging from the classic (such as marinated skirt steak and iron-skillet roasted chicken) to the extravagant (mango, avocado, pecan and goat cheese salad; and grilled cheese with Buffalo chicken). So-called "genius burgers" bear the names of artists such as Michelangelo, Georgia O’Keeffe and, of course, Francis Bacon. More info: 631-803-8593, paintersrestaurant.com

 Sound Avenue Bistro

3225 Sound Ave., Riverhead

With its blue-awning windows and a yardarm flagpole, the big, rambling Sound Bistro is unmissable as you travel along Sound Avenue. The former Lobster Roll Northside is one of the only places around to find that Long Island specialty, fried puffer fish tails. You’ll also find lobster rolls, fried fish baskets, local clams and oysters and, in season, soft-shell crabs and lobster-stuffed beefsteak tomatoes. The family-friendly menu features roast chicken, seared tuna, linguine and clam sauce, veal Milanese and much more. A terraced patio offers outdoor dining. More info: 631-381-0519, soundbistroriverhead.com

The local lobster salad beefstake tomato at Sound Avenue Bistro...

The local lobster salad beefstake tomato at Sound Avenue Bistro in Riverhead. Credit: Randee Daddona

Husk & Vine Kitchen & Cocktails

655 Middle Country Rd., St. James

The small-plate menu changes every Wednesday inside this spot, where the barroom feels like a stylish roadhouse and the dining room, more formal. Dishes hopscotch around the world, from Asian-style Kobe beef meatballs to tuna poke to a tender Wagyu burger layered with bacon, smoked Cheddar and tomato jam. There’s a lengthy craft beer list, hearty whiskey cocktails and plenty of wine, too. More info: 631-250-9616, huskandvineny.com

NORTH FORK

Cooperage Inn

2218 Sound Ave., Baiting Hollow

This North Fork stalwart is the very model of a rural restaurant, situated across the street from Fox Hollow Farm and next to Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard. The restaurant’s décor reflects its setting, with a verdant patio, old-fashioned tap room, a "harvest" dining room with a fireplace. The menu blends American standards (homemade potpies, steaks, meat loaf, roast duck) with more contemporary touches and, of course, pasta. Cooperage Inn’s annual fall festival runs every weekend through October, featuring face painting, a hay playground and a petting zoo. Festival menu specials include roasted corn, pulled pork sandwiches, barbecued ribs and chicken and bratwurst. More info: 631-727-8994, cooperageinn.com

Barrow Food House

452 Main Rd., Aquebogue

It's an eatery of high aspirations and distinction at a wallet-friendly price point. The setting is a dramatic one: a rebuilt 1850s farmhouse (the owners live upstairs) with a handsome indoor dining area and a partially shaded picnic table area outside, plus a front porch perfect for dining and drinking. All the dining areas are quaint and cozy, but no reservations are accepted, so get there early. More info: 631-779-3379, barrowfoodhouse.com

The fried chicken thigh sandwich at Barrow Food House in...

The fried chicken thigh sandwich at Barrow Food House in Aquebogue. Credit: Randee Daddona

Modern Snack Bar

628 Main Rd., Aquebogue 

Modern Snack Bar in Aquebogue is like a welcoming center on the North Fork, warm and reliable, as it has been since Truman was president. Recommended: fried soft-shell crabs; lobster salad; chicken croquettes; deep-fried flounder sandwich; fried chicken; roast loin of pork with mashed potatoes, sauerkraut and apple sauce; roast turkey with stuffing, gravy and cranberry sauce; meat loaf; New England-style clam chowder; sauerbraten with red cabbage, potato dumplings and gingersnap gravy; and all pies. More info: 631-722-3655, modernsnackbar.com

 Good JuJu's BBQ & Seafood Shack

487 Main Rd., Aquebogue

After six years as Little Lucharitos, Marc LaMaina’s rollicking ode to Mexican cuisine, this roadside shack has been transformed into Good JuJu’s BBQ & Seafood Shack, a family-friendly spot for, well, barbecue and seafood. From the smoker: Brisket, ribs, wings, chicken, pulled pork and chicken. In the manner of those ubiquitous Cajun seafood restaurants, Good Juju’s offers boiled-in-a-plastic-bag shrimp, crab and lobster tail with your choice of sauces. And, rounding out the menu: crabcakes, fried seafood, chili and sandwiches plus a full bar. Good Juju’s accommodates about 16 people inside and almost twice that outside. More info: 631-779-3681, thegoodjujus.com

North Fork Shack

41150 County Rd. 48, Southold

A compelling little spot where the casual vibe belies its culinary ambitions. Follow a local clam chowder with a sandwich of local fish with tomato, arugula and Old Bay aioli, or a wrap of pulled lamb with cucumber yogurt sauce and pickled vegetables. Tacos and tostadas are filled with your choice of pulled chicken, marinated steak, fried fish or Buffalo eggplant. Order at the counter and dine at picnic tables outside. More info: 631-876-5566, thenorthforkshack.com

Chenza's Twisted Tacos & Market

10560 Main Rd., Mattituck

The new shop, which has indoor and outdoor seating, fills its tortillas with global flavors. There are classic tacos like chicken and beef topped with Cheddar, pico de gallo, lettuce and sour cream, as well as recognizable Mexican specialties including al pastor, carne asada and birria tacos. But there's also a Hawaiian-inspired taco with pulled pork and pineapple; a cheesy Italian taco with chicken, roasted peppers and artichoke hearts; and a bang bang Thai taco with crispy shrimp, guacamole and spicy sauce. A Cuban taco is made from pulled pork, ham, pickles, Swiss cheese and Dijon mustard, while Chinese and Korean tacos are served in bao buns. More info: 631-315-5007, chenzastwistedtacos.com

An assortment of globally inspired tacos at Chenza's Twisted Tacos...

An assortment of globally inspired tacos at Chenza's Twisted Tacos & Market in Mattituck. Credit: Newsday/Marie Elena Martinez

SOUTH FORK

 Loco Lobster

223 Montauk Hwy., East Moriches,

Loco Lobster promises “crazy good seafood” and the new East Moriches restaurant lives up to its motto with a menu of more than 60 items, many of which take lobster in nutty new directions: lobster fries drizzled with Alfredo sauce, lobster pizza with Alfredo or scampi sauce, lobster mac & cheese, lobster mashed potatoes, fried chicken-and-lobster sandwiches, lobster grilled cheese, lobster tacos and quesadillas. Among the tamer lobster items are a straight-ahead lobster roll (hot or cold), lobster bisque and lobster tails. The casual, order-at-the-counter eatery offers seating both inside the high-ceilinged, vaguely industrial space and outside on a landscaped patio. More info: 631-909-3737, locolobsterseafood.com

Little Gull Cafe

54 N. Phillips Ave., Speonk

At this charmer located in a decommissioned train depot, chef-owner Will Pendergast offers homestyle breakfasts and lunches made with truly local ingredients. The dining room offers unobstructed views of the chefs as they make tender, towering buttermilk biscuits, sourdough pancakes, egg sandwiches on thick-cut toast, lobster rolls on homemade buns, greens-and-grains bowls and much more. Don’t leave without dessert, whether it’s a local fruit buckle or Pendergast’s signature pistachio-olive oil Bundt with a tunnel of chocolate. More info: 631-801-2176, littlegullcafe.com

TownLine BBQ

3593 Montauk Hwy., Sagaponack

The roadside barbecue joint is casual and counter service, making it a perfect turnoff for a quick bite when you've had your fill of agritainment at nearby Hank's Pumpkintown or The Milk Pail. Smoked meats reign, of course, especially St. Louis-style ribs. Sides, from cornbread to collard greens, are solid. TownLine is the rare BBQ spot that makes its own (and very good) desserts. More info: 631-537-2271, townlinebbq.com

Ribs served at Townline BBQ in Sagaponack.

Ribs served at Townline BBQ in Sagaponack. Credit: Gordon M. Grant

Shinnecock Lobster Factory

42 Montauk Hwy., Southampton

If you’re heading to the Hamptons, it’s worth getting off Route 27 once you cross the Shinnecock Canal. Not only will the scenery improve, but you’ll pass right by Shinnecock Lobster Factory, a collaboration between former Shinnecock tribal leader Lance Gumbs and Sicilian-born chef-caterer Marco Barrila. Lobster rolls here come in guppy, shark and whale sizes and in six varieties, from classic or BLT-style to diablo (with spicy tomato sauce) or “Shinnecock” (with extra-virgin olive oil and lemon). There’s also lobster bisque, lobster salad, lobster tacos … you get the idea. Dine on the porch or at picnic tables on the lawn out back. More info: 631-259-3334, shinnecocklobsterfactory.com

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PIZZA GARDENS

Piñons

23 Birch Hill Rd., Locust Valley

The succinct menu of organic-flour crust pies includes simple mozzarella cheese with herbs to more unorthodox creations involving Vermont maple syrup and white Cheddar cheese. Rotating weekly specials draw on what's around. Diners can choose to sit outdoors in a dog-friendly walled-off sidewalk garden area bolstered, as needed, with heat towers. More info: 516-801-3200, pinonspizza.com

Chris Brown and Jaime Burchfield, of Locust Valley, dine outdoors...

Chris Brown and Jaime Burchfield, of Locust Valley, dine outdoors at Pinon's Pizza Company in Locust Valley last month. Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

King Umberto

1343 Hempstead Tpke., Elmont

King Umberto's pizza-on-the-patio spot is a huge, marble-floored, open-sided terrace with tables, couches and altogether more than 140 seats. A fancy oven churns out 14-inch artisanal pies that have the structure and refinement of a classic Neapolitan, but with the crunch and crackle of New York. Along with the classic Margherita and Marinara, there are more fanciful pies such as those inspired by cacio e pepe and Amatriciana pastas. Plus an amazing calzone, filled with ricotta and either meatballs or eggplant. More info: 516-352-8391, kingumberto.com

Pietro's 

476 E Meadow Ave., East Meadow

Owner Lauren Maslov, whose grandfather opened the original Pietro’s in 1976, calls decorating the restaurant her “passion project” and it’s evident in the details. Red and white umbrellas strung garland-style set a cheery mood in the restaurant's outdoor dining space, which remains open for fall dining before winter brings out the dining igloos. The menu includes 10 specialty pizzas as well as DIY pies. More info: 516-794-8820, pietros-pizza.com 

Cena 081

103 Post Ave., Westbury

Its outdoor patio offers an eyeful of attractions, from a moderately sized waterfall to a wood-burning oven that churns out calzones, focaccia and pizza, including a Buffalo chicken bacon pizza; Quattro Stagioni with capocollo, anchovies, olives and mushrooms; and an artichoke, spinach, Gorgonzola pizza. About 20 tables make up the area, which features light music, some standing heaters and a fire pit. A lounge occupies the space just outside of the restaurant’s back door. More info: 516-385-3795, cena081.com

Artichoke, spinach and gorgonzola pizza at Cena 081 in Westbury.

Artichoke, spinach and gorgonzola pizza at Cena 081 in Westbury. Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

1943 Pizza Company

308-D Main St., Greenport

Since 2014, Greenporters have congregated at Matt Michel’s wood-oven pizzeria, where seating begins on a small deck with a view of the oven and then spreads out all over Stirling Square and onto the sidewalk of Main Street. Specialties include the "New Haven," topped with mashed potato and bacon; and seasonal pizzas that draw on the bounty of the North Fork. Folks wait all year for the white pie with Comté cheese, red onion, rosemary and sliced potatoes. More info: 631-477-6984, rollingindoughpizza.com

Mangia Bene

14 S. Park Ave., Rockville Centre

The menu at this Rockville Centre trattoria ranges all over the boot, but attention must be paid to the individual Neapolitan-style pizzas. Crust and toppings are in perfect harmony, from the simplest marinara and Margherita to the "PLT" (smoked Tyrolean Speck, arugula, cherry tomatoes, lemon, mozzarella and Parmesan) and the "Calabrese," sparked by hot sausage and Calabrian chilies. Enjoy them in a tented "giardino" out back that has standing heaters to lengthen the al fresco season. More info: 516-447-6744, mangiabenervc.com

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