Il Pozzo Wine Bar & Kitchen opens in Lynbrook

When he first conceived of Il Pozzo Wine Bar & Kitchen, owner Dominic Natoli was single and was hard-pressed to find a convivial bar that catered to his demographic. “There weren’t a lot of places for people in their 40s or 50s to go,” he said. “Just sports bars and places where you could do shots with 20-year-old kids. But the ‘older generation’ is still going out, and wants a place for good conversation and good food.”

That was the inspiration behind Il Pozzo ("the water well" in Italian), which opened in Lynbrook in July. By the time Natoli finished the lengthy construction and permitting process, he had gotten married, but he saw his initial conceit through to completion: The rustic-chic space has a comfortable, 20-seat L-shaped bar and seats about 50 more at high-top tables and in a low-slung lounge area. There are a few TVs at the bar but Natoli does his best to politely refuse “the guys who come in and say, ‘hey can you put on the Mets game?’”

Natoli doesn’t consider himself a wine connoisseur but, with the help of his wine reps, he put together a crowd-pleasing list of 20 reds, 11 whites and two rosés. Popular names predominate: Banfi and Ruffino Chianti, Robert Mondavi and Josh Cellars cabernet sauvignon, Coppola and Stags Leap merlot, Cloudy Bay and Kim Crawford sauvignon blanc, Santa Margherita pinot grigio. About half the wines are available by the glass ($13 to $16) and bottles range from $39 to $95 (for the Pertinace Barbaresco). There is also red and white sangria and a full cocktail bar.

Executive chef Luke Penater has put together an equally crowd-pleasing menu. There are platters of charcuterie and / or cheeses ($22 to $36), and “shareables” such as Sicilian lamb meatballs with tomato sauce and pecorino cream ($14), three-cheese mac ’n’ cheese with truffled breadcrumbs and bacon ($13), fish tacos ($16) and spaghetti carbonara ($15). Larger plates include a grilled portabella mushroom cap with shipped herbed Tofutti and pine nuts ($14), mussels in white wine with herb butter and sambal ($17), a lamb burger ($16) and a prime strip steak ($39).

Since Lynbrook’s Regal theater reopened last summer after a $30 million upgrade, the village has been upping its dining game. In addition to Il Pozzo and Gran Caffe Gelateria, a number of other eateries are poised to open downtown.

Il Pozzo Wine Bar & Kitchen is open Monday to Saturday from 4 p.m. to as late as there are quaffers quaffing.

46 Atlantic Ave., Lynbrook, 516-596-7870, ilpozzowinebar.com