Greek Islands
The yen for Greek grilled octopus can strike randomly. Many a time, I've opened a menu seeking something tentacled and charcoal-broiled to satisfy that craving for cephalopod ... only to be denied.
But here it is at Greek Islands, a new taverna in Little Neck that seems to be drawing a local following.
Perhaps others, too, have come to savor the tender grilled sea denizen, tasting of nothing more than a little garlic, lemon juice, olive oil and the char.
And while it's certainly true that you can find grilled octopus at lots of Greek restaurants, especially west of the Nassau- Queens border, you won't find many places where it is as good as this.
Not everything at Greek Islands is on the same lofty plane. But the food is generally straightforward and satisfying, the service cheerful and the blue and white decor just what you'd expect at a neighborhood Greek restaurant.
You'll definitely want to have spinach pie, since they make a good, honest, verdant and flaky variety. But avoid the keftedes, bland, overcooked "meatballs" that resemble small, dense hamburgers.
To make the most of the warm pita in the breadbasket, get the kos poikilia, a winning combination of briny taramosalata (roe dip), a just-garlicky- enough hummus (chick-pea tahini dip), a pungent skordalia (potato garlic dip) and a refreshing tzatziki (yogurt and cucumber dip) flecked with dill. The traditional horiatiki salad -- chunks of tomato, onion, green pepper, olives and feta -- is vibrant and fresh, simply dressed with olive oil and oregano. I also liked the Greek sausage, anointed with lemon and oregano.
While the menu says that Greek Islands serves "homemade" gyro, our waiter confessed that, for now, the restaurant is buying it. No matter; the rotisseried pressed meat was exceptional, light in texture, rich in flavor, not the least bit greasy. Both the moussaka (ground lamb, eggplant and potato casserole) and pastitsio (Greek lasagna) were irresistible, thanks to a bright, fresh tomato sauce and a lush bechamel.
One night, a leg of lamb special was a letdown -- the meat, while flavorsome, was chewy. The only fault with the otherwise nicely grilled pork souvlaki was that it was so stingily portioned. But a serving of grilled shrimp was ample enough, the shrimp cooked to smoky succulence.
For dessert, have the galaktoboureko, vanilla pudding baked in phyllo, the definition of comfort.
If it's Greek food that's high- style or innovative you're after, you really ought to seek elsewhere. But if a homey chunk of pastitsio or a grill-charred tentacle of octopus sings a siren song to you, then this is one Greek Island you'll want to visit.
Reviewed by Joan Reminick, 9/3/04.
