Cinnamon spiral cookies with vanilla frosting.

Cinnamon spiral cookies with vanilla frosting. Credit: Doug Young

It is hard to imagine holiday baking without warming spices. Not only do cinnamon and ginger fill the kitchen with aromas of Decembers past, they may literally warm you up.

Spiced holiday cookies have been a European tradition since medieval times, when Christmas overtook the solstice as a popular feast day and newly available — and very costly — cloves, mace and allspice were added to cookie dough for the occasion. In the 12th century, St. Hildegard of Bingen not only founded an abbey and composed a multitude of hymns, she also wrote down a recipe for cinnamon and nutmeg spice cookies that she claimed would induce feelings of joy. During the English Renaissance, Queen Elizabeth is said to have ordered her bakers to mold gingerbread dough into the shapes of her favorite courtiers, thus inventing the gingerbread man.

Although the Massachusetts Puritans outlawed Christmas celebrations including the baking of special cookies, Dutch settlers on Long Island probably baked cinnamon-spiced speculaas in the 1700s. The word “cookie” comes from the Dutch word “koekje.” In the 19th century, immigrants from Germany and Scandinavia introduced anise-flavored springerle and nutmeg-rich muskotsnittar to the American holiday baking repertoire. The 20th century saw the rise of the hermit cookie, spiced with ginger, cinnamon, and nutmeg and studded with raisins.

Ground spices will retain their flavor for 2 to 4 years, so go ahead and use the nutmeg you bought last December. But if you haven’t baked gingerbread since the early 2000s, invest in a new jar for the most fragrant results.

Cinnamon Roll Spiral Cookies with Vanilla Icing

Makes 36 cookies

A tender cream cheese dough gives these cookies a pastry-like quality. A generous filling of cinnamon, sugar, and butter gives them that holiday aroma. Don’t skip the icing, which provides extra sweetness and creamy texture.

For the cookies:

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

8 ounces (1 package) chilled cream cheese, cut into 8 pieces

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into 16 pieces

For the filling:

¼ cup sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

2 tablespoons melted and cooled butter

For the icing:

1 cup confectioners’ sugar

2-3 tablespoons heavy cream

½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1. Make the cookie dough: Combine the flour, ¼ cup sugar and salt in a food processor and pulse to combine. Add the cream cheese and butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal (do not over process).

2. Turn the mixture out onto a lightly floured work surface and shape the dough into two 6-inch squares. Wrap the dough squares in plastic and refrigerate it for at least 2 hours and for up to 2 days.

3. Make the filling: Stir together the sugar and cinnamon. With a lightly floured rolling pin, roll out one of the dough squares into a 10-inch square on a lightly floured work surface. Brush with 1 tablespoon butter and sprinkle with half of the cinnamon sugar. Roll the dough into a tight cylinder. Wrap the cylinder in plastic wrap and place in the freezer for 1 hour to firm up. Repeat with the remaining dough square, butter and cinnamon sugar.

4. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Trim the uneven ends from the dough logs. Slice the dough into 1/2-inch-thick rounds, rotating the dough often so it doesn’t become flattened as you cut.

5. Arrange the cookies on the baking sheets about an inch apart. Bake until golden brown, 13 to 16 minutes. Transfer the baking sheets to a wire rack and let the cookies cool completely on the sheets.

6. Make the icing: Whisk together the confectioners’ sugar, cream, and vanilla until smooth and thick but pourable. Dip a fork into the icing and wave over the cookies so they are lightly striped. Let stand until icing is firm, about 1 hour. Cinnamon Roll Spiral Cookies will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for 3 to 4 days.

Cinnamon spiral cookies with vanilla frosting.

Cinnamon spiral cookies with vanilla frosting. Credit: Doug Young

Chocolate, Orange and Black Pepper Icebox Cookies

Makes 48 cookies

The sweet and tart flavors of chocolate and orange are balanced by the heat of ground black pepper in these easy icebox treats.

1 1/2 cups all-purpose unbleached flour

½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

3/4 cup packed light brown sugar

1 large egg

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 cup mini semisweet chocolate chips

½ cup candied orange peel, finely chopped

1. Combine the flour, cocoa powder, black pepper, baking powder and salt in a medium mixing bowl.

2. Combine the butter and brown sugar in a large mixing bowl and cream together with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the egg and vanilla and beat until smooth. Stir in the flour mixture until just incorporated. Stir in the chocolate chips and orange peel.

3. Divide dough into two equal pieces and shape into two eight-inch cylinders. Use a flat metal spatula to square off the sides of the cylinders. . Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate it for at least 2 hours or for up to 24 hours. (Dough logs may be wrapped in plastic and frozen for up to 1 month. Slice and bake directly from the freezer.)

4. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Slice the dough into 1/3-inch-thick squares.

5. Place the cookies on ungreased baking sheets at least 2 inches apart. Bake until they are pale golden around the edges but still soft on top, 13 to 15 minutes. Let them stand on the baking sheet for 5 minutes and then remove with a metal spatula to a wire rack to cool completely. Chocolate and Orange Slice-and-Bakes will keep in an airtight container for 2 to 3 days.

Chocolate, orange and black pepper icebox cookies.

Chocolate, orange and black pepper icebox cookies. Credit: Doug Young

Triple Ginger Biscotti

Makes about 48 biscotti

Three types of ginger give these biscotti powerful flavor, with macadamia nuts and coconut adding to their tropics-in-the-winter appeal.

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 cup packed brown sugar

1 ½ teaspoons baking powder

¼ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons ground ginger

¼ cup virgin coconut oil, melted

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

2/3 cup diced crystallized ginger

3/4 cup unsalted macadamia nuts, lightly toasted, chopped

1. Position rack in center of oven. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and ground ginger in a large mixing bowl. Whisk together the oil, eggs, fresh ginger and vanilla in a medium bowl.

2. Add the wet ingredients to the flour mixture and mix with an electric mixture until moistened. It will be crumbly. Stir in the crystallized ginger and macadamia nuts.

3. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured countertop and knead briefly until it comes together. Divide into two equal pieces and press each piece into a 12-inch by 2-inch log. Place the logs on the prepared baking sheet, at least 3 inches apart.

4. Bake until risen and golden, about 35 minutes. Let logs cool for 15 minutes on baking sheets. Use a sharp serrated knife to slice the logs diagonally into ¾-inch pieces. Place the cookies back on the baking sheet, cut side down, and return to the oven to dry out, about 10 minutes. Transfer to wire racks and let cool completely.

Triple ginger biscotti.

Triple ginger biscotti. Credit: Doug Young

Lemon-Thyme Shortbread Triangles

Makes about 48 cookies

Nutmeg adds warmth to these bright yellow herbed shortbread cookies. A coating of sanding sugar around their edges give them shine and crunch.

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon coarsely ground cornmeal

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

Zest from 1 lemon

½ cup Turbinado sugar (“Sugar in the Raw”) or sanding sugar

1 large egg white, lightly beaten

Small thyme sprigs for decoration (optional)

1. In a medium bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, flour, nutmeg and salt.

2. In a large bowl, beat the butter with an electric mixer until soft. Add the sugar and beat on high until fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the thyme leaves and lemon zest.

3. Add the dry ingredients and mix until the dough just comes together.

4. Divide dough into two equal pieces and shape into two eight-inch cylinders. Use a flat metal spatula to press the sides into a triangular shape. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 2 days.

5. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

6. Spread the Turbinado or sanding sugar across another baking sheet. Brush the sides of the cookie dough cylinders with the egg white and roll in sugar to coat the sides.

7. Slice the cylinders into 1/3-inch triangles. Place on the baking sheets, cut sides up, 1 inch apart, pressing a small thyme sprig into the top of each cookie if desired and bake one pan at a time until just firm, 15 to 17 minutes. Let cookies cool completely on sheets. Serve immediately or store in an airtight container for up to 1 week before serving.

Lemon-thyme shortbread triangles.

Lemon-thyme shortbread triangles. Credit: Doug Young

Chai-Spiced Snickerdoodles

Makes about 32 cookies

These soft, puffy, comforting cookies are usually spiced with cinnamon. The addition of ginger, cardamom, allspice, and black pepper gives them extra punch.

2 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons cream of tartar

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

1 3/4 cups sugar

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon allspice

Pinch black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

2. Combine the flour, cream of tarter, baking soda and salt in a medium mixing bowl.

3. Cream the butter and 1 1/2 cups of the sugar together in a large mixing bowl with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the eggs and beat until smooth. Stir in the flour mixture until just combined.

4. Combine the cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, allspice, black pepper and the remaining 1/4 cup sugar in a small bowl. Scoop up a heaping tablespoon of dough and roll it between your palms to form a ball. Alternatively, use a small cookie scoop. Roll each ball in the spice sugar and coat it completely. Place the balls on a parchment-lined baking sheet, leaving about 3 inches between each cookie. (Cookies may be placed next to each other on parchment-lined baking sheets, frozen, transferred to zipper-lock plastic freezer bags, and stored in the freezer for up to 1 month. Frozen cookies may be placed in the oven directly from the freezer and baked as directed.)

5. Bake the cookies until they are pale golden around the edges but still soft on top, about 10 minutes (a minute or two longer for frozen dough). Let them stand on the baking sheet for 5 minutes and then carefully slide the entire parchment with the cookies from the pan to a wire rack to cool completely. Chai-Spiced Snickerdoodles will keep in an airtight container for 2 to 3 days.

Chai spiced snickerdoodles.

Chai spiced snickerdoodles. Credit: Doug Young

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