After a very hot summer, a very humid week and the prospect of Hurricane Earl making an unwelcome visit, I'm thinking about other waters. Specifically, cruising the impossibly blue Aegean. And that means Greek food.

The aptly named It's Greek to Me is tucked into a strip near the Syosset railroad station. From the outside, the place looks ordinary, like the other occupants of the stretch. But this is a very good little eatery that goes beyond the basics.

You'll find all the familiar spreads, including tasty baba ghanoush and hummus, plus a taramosalata that has the bite of a salt lick. Saganaki, or grilled cheese with some lemon, also is bracing stuff.

The kitchen prepares fine, whole grilled fish, from red snapper to barramundi. Moussaka and grilled octopus, naturally. Gyro and souvlaki, of course. But you'll also come across a Spanish "creation," with either pork or chicken, served with rice, beans and plantains. And crisp chicken wings, Buffalo in approach, but mercifully sauceless.

Nibble on Greek fries. Contemplate a kebab. Order baklava or the sugar cookies.

You'll feel refreshed enough to ride out the storm.



It's Greek to me isn't too hard to understand. This restaurant runs the culinary gamut from gyros and souvlaki to the glories of the Greek kitchen: whole grilled fish (on a recent night, there were 6 on offer), moussaka, pastitzio and grilled lamb. Less familiar offerings include loukaniko (grilled Greek sausage flavored with orange peel), keftedes (meatballs), saganaki (fried kefalotiri cheese) and skordalia (potatoes pureed with garlic). Not feeling Greek? There are plenty of steaks, chops and pastas. Finish up your meal with baklava, galaktoboureko or nut cookies. There is take-out, but no delivery.

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