Kadoya opens in Westhampton Beach

Westhampton Beach was dealt a body blow to its sushi sensibility when Sushi 1 closed at the end of 2024. The 29-year-old restaurant was a standard-bearer for the kind of classic Japanese cooking that is increasingly rare on Long Island. At the time, chef-owner Kimi Osaki said another Japanese restaurateur was taking over the spot. Toyo Kamatani, a partner at Suki Zuki in Water Mill, has now resurrected it as Kadoya which opened last month.

Kadoya (Japanese for "corner house") has retained Sushi 1’s modest decor and traditional menu. Starters ($7 to $20) include oshitashi (blanched spinach), agedashi tofu (deep fried and served in broth), karaage chicken (deep-fried nuggets), hamachi kama (grilled yellowtail jaw), gyoza and shumai dumplings.

The sushi menu comprises set platters — sushi and sashimi (regular and deluxe), chirashi, unadon, tekkadon ($30 to $70) — as well as a la carte nigiri and sashimi and about two dozen rolls ($7 to $20), from California, negihama (yellowtail-scallion) and spicy tuna to the Kadoya roll (lobster, avocado tobiko, cucumber with spicy sauce) and roll-adjacent "tuna sandwich" (spicy tuna, tobiko, scallion, tempura flakes) that is a signature item at Suki Zuki.

Two other popular specialties from Water Mill have made the trip west with Kamatani: teriyaki chicken salad ($16) and fried whole local flounder ($35).

After some time at Kadoya, Kamatani will resume his duties at Suki Zuki which he and partner Feng Yunsheng opened in 2000. He will leave the new sushi bar in the hands of longtime associate Kenji Kazamatsuri.

Kadoya, 210 Mill Rd., Westhampton Beach, 631-288-5096. Open 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Thursday to Tuesday.