Review: Mala Madre Taqueria in Westbury

Named after a leafy succulent plant that's found across Central America and Mexico, this stylish taqueria gets all the details right. Owner Alejandro Nava hails from Puebla, but his straightforward menu of tacos, tostadas and enchiladas also draws from Baja, California and the Yucatán. You won't find a lot of Cal-Mex or Tex-Mex though, as Mala Madre focuses on dishes you can find further south of the border. 

Cochinita pibil and chorizo tacos are standouts — but the best item on the menu may be the Baja fish tacos, which are faithfully rendered with fresh strips of cod battered and deep fried into bulbous nuggets.

The housemade corn tortillas are exemplary, sleek but hearty enough to hold their own. Scattered with wisps of radish and micro cilantro, these are some of the best tacos you'll find on Long Island.

In a feat of ingenuity, red and green salsas are served inside repurposed Jarritos bottles that go out to every table. The roasted salsas are chunky and assertively spicy; they don't mess around. But that's not the only creative use of Mexican soda bottles here. There's also an entire wall of glowing Jarritos and Topo Chico bottles toward the back. It helps give the small room a party vibe, but then again it's also dominated by a large bar. And the margaritas here are choice. 

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