Among the tacos at Mi Viejito Pueblito are al pastor...

Among the tacos at Mi Viejito Pueblito are al pastor (marinated pork, left) and lengua (tongue, right). Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Whenever I’m driving on New York Avenue between Jericho Turnpike and Depot Road in Huntington Station, I keep my eyes peeled for new eats. That's because the stretch boasts a wealth of pupuserias, rotisseries, full-fledged restaurants and delis with steam tables, most of them serving a mix of Latin cuisines.

The other day, while stopped by a traffic crew in front of the Huntington Manor Fire Department, I espied a sign announcing the grand opening of Mi Viejito Pueblito.

The neat little eatery, whose name translates, roughly, to “my little old town,” is a rarity in the neighborhood because the small menu is exclusively Mexican — no Salvadoran pupusas or Tex-Mex fajitas (or even salads, for that matter).

Tacos are $2.50 apiece, and I sampled two of the nine types: the lengua (tongue) was tender, but not overly stewed, showered with cilantro and onions. The al pastor (marinated pork) was just as good, not done on a vertical rotisserie as is strictly traditional, but it was properly spiced and served with a big slab of fresh pineapple. The plate itself was garnished with a grilled scallion and a tangle of pickled nopales (cactus pads) and onions.

The tortillas used for the tacos are packaged, but very good. For quesadillas ($6), however, the cooks press their own tortillas, griddle them and fill with either chicken, chicharron (pork skin), mushrooms, cecina (salted beef), chorizo or steak. There’s no melted cheese in the quesadillas; instead they are topped with fresh Mexican cheese, crema and lettuce.

There are also sopes and huaraches (thicker, more substantial tacos), burritos and tortas (Mexican sandwiches), breakfast specialties and a handful of meat platters served with rice and beans ($14.60).

Hours are 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, to 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.

Mi Viejito Pueblito is at 1687 New York Ave., Huntington Station, 631-470-0396.

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