Manhasset's Publicans was home to a generation of serious drinkers, and even became the subject of a bestselling memoir. Now it's reopened as an airy, immaculate gastropub serving upscale dishes such as filet mignon, braised chicken over polenta, and curry-laced fried calamari over arugula-and-fennel salad.

Credit: Linda Rosier

The 8-ounce Publican Burger comes wedged in a toasted brioche bun and topped with American cheese at Publicans in Manhasset.

Credit: Linda Rosier

Publicans is located at 550 Plandome Rd. in Manhasset. The watering hole, a fixture in the village for decades, was made famous by J.R. Moehringer’s 2005 memoir, “The Tender Bar.” 

Credit: Linda Rosier

The new owners of Publicans in Manhasset kept the pub's 50-plus-year-old bartop, but added modern details such as subway tile and wood-and-pipe shelving.

Credit: Linda Rosier

Chef Rich Schoenacher returned to his native Long Island from California to helm the kitchen at Publicans in  Manhasset.

Credit: Linda Rosier

A simple, succulent Colossal Crab Cocktail comes with piquant mustard sauce and a pair of lemon wedges at Publicans in Manhasset.

Credit: Linda Rosier

Filet mignon, with creamy mashed potatoes and broccolini, is drizzled with a red-wine demiglace at Publicans in Manhasset.

Credit: Linda Rosier

The crispy calamari salad at Publicans in Manhasset is laced with curry spices and served atop spicy greens.

Credit: Linda Rosier

The kitchen at Publicans in Manhasset nestles roasted chicken over shaved Brussels sprouts and a goat-cheese-laced polenta.

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