San Marzano Brick Oven Pizzeria

October 21, 2010

At this boutique-y pizzeria with brown checkered cloths, the air is scented with wood smoke, which also imbues the crust of the Margherita pie. It's pebbly, blistered, topped with a simple combination of freshly made mozzarella, tomato sauce and basil.

The best is the Margherita pizza, $9; Runners-up include a pizza bianca crowned with fontina, Gorgonzola, speck prosciutto and caramelized onions. Also, a bacon-and-egg pizza done with mozzarella, pancetta, egg, goat cheese and Pecorino Romano.