Greek seafood restaurant Vilai opens in Glen Cove

Out of the ashes of Greek Captain has risen a new Greek seafood restaurant with much loftier ambitions and a noted chef: Vilai in Glen Cove is open for business.  

The kitchen is helmed by Gregory Zapantis, a chef whose resume includes the elegant Manhattan Greek restaurants Estiatorio Milos, Trata and Avra, Thalassa and Kellari, as well as, most recently, Molos on the Hudson River waterfront in Weehawken.

Zapantis’ menu blends Greek classics (grilled octopus, fried zucchini chips, roast chicken with lemon potatoes) with inventive, New American twists such as saganaki (fried cheese) made with cave-aged Cheddar and dried figs, shrimp risotto with black truffles. Of course there’s plenty of seafood, from clams and oysters on the half shell and tuna tartare, to six varieties of whole grilled fish. Most starters range from $12 to $18, mains from $25 to $38.

Vilai's predecessor, Greek Captain, was a shaky proposition from the get-go, closing in December after barely six months. The Vilai crew, led by general manager Petros Charamis, transformed the rather  unremarkable space into a sleek, bright venue, mostly white but with accents of bleached wood and light fixtures made from nautical ropes. (“Vilai” is Greek for heaving line.)

Vilai’s wine list has about 40 bottles, many of them Greek, and about 20 available by the glass.

The building, set back from Glen Street just north of Razzano’s Italian market, was Epiphany from 2003 to 2011. Thereafter it was the short-lived Tappo, then Chama Rodizio and Greek Captain.

Vilai is at 284 Glen St., Glen Cove, 516-801-4889, vilainy.com.