Sancerre and tuna tostadas at The Wine Line, a new...

Sancerre and tuna tostadas at The Wine Line, a new wine bar in Oyster Bay. Credit: Newsday/Marie Elena Martinez

The Wine Line, a new wine bar-meets-cocktail lounge, has opened in Oyster Bay. It’s a swank yet comfortable spot with velvet navy couches, low marble tables and an industrial city feel.

Owned by the Milana family, the group behind the neighboring Stellina Ristorante, The Wine Line feels equally personal, if not a bit more playful. The wine list is succinct but refreshing — the only mass-produced wine is a rosé, Whispering Angel. New and Old World wines are featured in equal measure but all feel like discoveries, and most are available as individual glasses that run from $12 to $24.

“We did eight or nine tastings before we opened,” Giulia Milana said. “Every 90 days, we want to roll inventory, keep on changing. That’s what makes us different.”

On the white side, the Jean-Marie Reverdy & Fils Caillottes Sancerre ($72) is particularly crisp, joining a Bodegas Pazo De Villarei Albadia do Seixo ($48) from Galicia, Spain, a Hungry Blonde Chardonnay ($96) from Napa, and two Pinot Grigios — a Zufini and a 2021 Bertani Velante (both $48).

On the red side, Sonoma’s Classified Pinot Noir ($72) pours alongside Smokescreen’s The Chemist Red Blend from Paso Robles ($48). These California wines join European counterparts including Hermanos Hernaiz El Pedal Tempranillo ($48) from Rioja Alta, Spain, and multiple full-bodied Italian classics including a Tuscan Villa La Pagliaia Chianti Classico ($48), as well as a Valpolicella, a Barolo, and a wallet-busting Tuscan San Guido Sassicaia ($599).

Those who don't want to invest in an entire bottle can try four of the pricier ($250-$599) selections by the glass, since the shop uses Napa Technology’s WineStation’s high-tech preservation system.

The menu, executed by chef Luis “Fernando” Ramirez Kabande, is decidedly un-Italian, so don’t come expecting cacio e pepe or frito misto. Milana calls it “Stellina’s version of bar food” and it’s nearly as good as the wines. Fresh tuna piled onto fried wonton tostadas ($25) joins nachos ($16) and a mezze platter ($20) with silky, whipped ricotta, hummus and olive tapenade. Six flatbreads ($15-$20) with toppings including truffles and mushrooms are all made on pinsa, Roman-style dough, and larger plates like meatball and BBQ pulled pork sliders round out the offerings.

The Wine Line, 30 Audrey Ave., Oyster Bay, 631-358-3522, thewineline.com. Open Tuesday-Saturday 5 p.m.-closing.

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